Two Years In Upper India

TWO YEARS IN UPPER INDIA

BY

JOHN 0. LOWRIH,

ONK or TUB flBCIlBTARXKS OF THB BOARD OP PORBION MISSIONS OP TUB
PRBSBYTBRXAN CBURCH.

NEW YORK:

ROBERT CARTER AND BROTHERS,
NO. 285 BROADWAY .

MDCCCL.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1R50,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court lor the Southern District of New York.

R. CRAIOHBAD, TRINTBR AND 8TBRBOTTPBR,
112 PULTON STREET, NEW YORE.

V R K FACE

The Author has had a two-fold object in view in preparing this
volumo. lie has aimed at making it a manual of general infonnation,
for those who have not time or opportunity to consult larger works ;
and a book of reference, for those who wish to study the earlier
history of the Missions, of which it was his privilege to be a pioneer.

He has endeavored, therefore, to present a portion of the invaluable
materials, which are found in the writings of Sir William Jones,
Colebrooke, Malcolm, Elphinstono, and other authors, and at tho
same time to give the results of his own observation, during a journey
extending to Labor, tho capital of the late kingdom of tho Sikhs,
and a residence of some months in the Himalaya mountains ;
interweaving these with the thread of his own narrative.

The Author’s compensation for this work, a percentage on its sales,
is devoted to tho support of the Missions which are treated of in these
pages.

New York, August, 1850.

The Map accompanying this book has been engraved to show the
Missionary Stations in India, nearly all oi' which are designated.
They are printed in Roman letter, thus : Labor •. Other places, of
which but few are inserted, are printed in Italic, as Ajmeer o.

Sir William Jones’s system has been commonly followed in writing
Hindu names. It suits well the native orthography ; but the English
reader should note that it requires the short a to be pronounced like
te, or like the last a in America ; and the long i, like ee, or like i in
Machine. Thus Panjab is pronounced as if written Punjab ; Ranjit,
Runjeet ; Pandit, Pundit, &c.

CONTENTS.

CHArTER 1.

Voyage to Calcutta,

Page

7

CHAPTER II.

India and the Hindus,

*9

CHAPTER III.

The Hindus — continued, ......

30

CHAPTER IV.

Choice of a Missionary Field,

. . 45

CHAPTER V.

Events at Calcutta,

55

CHAPTER VI.

Journey to Lodiana — Voyage on the Ganges,

69

CHAPTER VII.

Voyage on the Ganges continued, . . . .

90

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey to Lodiana continued,

109

CHAPTER IX.

Events at LodiSlna,

199

vin

CONTENTS.

niAPTER X. p,^,^

Tour to Labor, . . ...... 142

CHAPTER XI.

Tour to Labor — Ranjit Singh, 1G3

CnAlTER XII.

Ranjit Singh — The Punjab and the Sikha, . . . 181

CDAPTER XIII.

Lodiana to Simla — The Protected Hill States, . 199

CHAPTER XIV.

Lodiana to New York, 228

CHAPTER XV.

The Present Condition of the Mis.‘»ions, .... 239

CHAPTER XVI.

(General Considerations, . 249

Appendix,

261

TWO YEARS IN UPPER INDIA.

CHAPTER 1.

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

trailing with friends — The voyage ; a Sabbath — Madeira ; beautiful
sight ; Romanist religion — Winds and weather ; storm off the
Cape — Sand Heads ; Sagor ; Natives—Scenery on the Hoogley—
Reach Calcutta.

On Wednesday, the 29th of May, 1833, we left
Philadelphia to join the ship Star, lying in the Dela-
ware near New Castle, bound to Calcutta. Our
company consisted of the Rev.*^ William Reed,
myself, and our wives. A few near relatives and
friends went with us to New Castle, to see us em-
bark. The afternoon was dark and rainy ; but if we
had been superstitiously inclined, we could not long
have indulged forebodings of evil, for before sunset
the heavy clouds of the western sky parted, and the
sun shone out clearly, painting a splendid rainbow
in the departing showers — a bright omen, we trusted,
that God, who is ever faithful to his promise, would

2

8

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

graciously vouchsafe to us his protection. Early
next morning we went on board.

I do not propose to give a minute sketch of the
incidents of our way, and I therefore forbear attempt-
ing to describe our last parting, as we supposed, and
as it proved to some of our number, with the friends
who had accompanied us. When we looked on a
father, a brother, and other friends, going from our
vessel in their little boat to the shore, and saw their
faces not less pale than our own with deep emotion,
we could hardly believe that the hour of parting at
death itself would be more trying. These separa-
tions can be fully understood only by those who
have met with them. In one respect they are pecu-
liarly painful ; they are not relieved by the prospect
of soon meeting again. Other persons leave homes
ai:id friends not less beloved ; but they do not ex-
pect to spend all their days in a foreign country.
Commonly their absence extends but to a few years.
The evening of life, at any rate, and its noon also,
they hope to spend at home amongst their early
friends. This hope is rarely enjoyed by those who
go abroad as missionaries. Their duties cannot be
readily laid aside, nor often transferred to other
laborers. The longer they live among the heathen,
if their spirit and deportment have been worthy of
their object, the greater will be their influence over
them, and the stronger the reasons for remaining
amongst them. The considerations of health and
longer life, especially when their field of labor is
within the tropics ; the happy results of intercourse

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

0

with their friends and the churches ; and other
reasons, would probably render it expedient for them
to return to their native country on a visit, after a
period of ten or twelve years ; but the work to which
they have consecrated themselves is a work for life,
and one from which they cannot withdraw, so long
as they can be usefully employed in it. They
require, therefore, that faith which is “ the substance
of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.'’
This will keep them from being unduly “ mindful of
that country from whence they came out and it
will cheer them with the hope of “ a better country,
that is, an heavenly.^'

Our voyage was not marked by any occurrence
of special interest. Vessels in the East India trade
commonly carry out little freight, and having plenty
of room, and being well found, they afford comfort-
able accommodations. The length of the voyage
depends on the time of the year, speed of the ship,
and other common contingencies ; four months may
be stated as an average time of making the passage.
In so long a voyage the time often passes tediously,
and many persons give way to indolent habits and
to impatience, if not to worse traits of temper; but
if the weather permits, as during much of the way
it will, the passenger has much time for reading and
writing, and the missionary will endeavor to improve
this long season of leisure as a Sabbath, invaluable
for its rest from the excitement and distraction of
leaving his friends and country, and not less to be
prized as a time of thoughtful preparation for the

10

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

new course of life, on whose active duties he is soon
to enter. With a few chosen books at hand, much
time for reflection and devotional duties, and fre-
quent conversations with his companions, it will be
greatly his own fault if the voyage do not prove one
of the best spent periods of his life. So we trust it
was to us. Sea-sickness, the most disagreeable of
all complaints, was in due time succeeded by excel-
lent health, excepting to one of our number, whose
hope of enjoying good health seemed to depend on
her living in a milder climate. We all enjoyed
good spirits, and were able to make a good use of
our time.

Departing from the usual route, we reached the
island of Madeira on the 24th of June. We made
the island on Sunday, and were becalmed within a
few miles of the shore, the winds having agreed to
keep the Sabbath, as one of the ladies remarked, and
we were thus spared the confusion of going into port
on that holy day. Seldom had we seen a more
beautiful sight, than when looking from the decks of
our ship at the side of the green mountain island
opposite to us. The summits were lost in the
clouds, but the lower parts of the island were
covered with terraced vineyards, and dotted over
with cottages that seemed the abodes of innocence
and contentment. The day happened to be one of
the chief Romanist festivals, and in the evening
lights were kindled in a thousand cottnges, and the
churches were completely brilliant in the general
illumination. A magic scene appeared to have been

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

11

spread before us, filled with the beauty of nature in
her fairest dress by daylight, and changed at even-
tide into the splendor of another world.

We spent three weeks very pleasantly at the
quinta, or country-seal, of an English merchant, just
above Funchal, the chief town, while our ship was
discharging and receiving freight. During this time
we were often reminded by the ignorance and po-
verty of the people, the absence of enterprise, the
crowds of beggars, the numbers of churches with no
sermons preached in them, the multitudes of priests
in their peculiar garb, that the dark pall of- the
Roinan religion was spread over the island. If an
American would know what the legitimate influence
of that religion really is, let him visit a country
where it prevails without a rival ; where its charac-
ter is neither elevated nor modified by the presence
of purer forms of Christianity; where Romanism,
with its monks, and nuns, and many ringing bells, and
innumerable outward solemnities, has banished the
free and pure religion of the heart and its thousand
temporal benefits.

Leaving Madeira on the 13th of July, we took
the north-east trade winds shortly afterwards, and
soon got down towards the equator, where the pa-
tience of the sailors, and passengers too, was tried
with light and variable winds, calms, and little pro-
gress. After entering the south-east trade winds on
the other side of the line, we had again delightful
sailing. These trade winds are supposed to be
caused by the colder air of the higher latitudes.

12

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

which rushes down to supply the place of the air
that, after becoming heated and expanded, ascends
from the latitudes near the equator. Blowing stea-
dily from one quarter, always strong enough to carry
a ship from seven to ten miles an hour, almost with-
out a sail having to be changed, and being of a
pleasant temperature, it is not strange that these
winds should be so eagerly desired by sailors. In
a few weeks we had run over several thousand miles,
the dashing foam from the sides of our ship being
like music to our ears. Now was the time for the
men to overhaul the sails and rigging of the ship,
and to prepare for rougher weather. On Sundays, our
public worship, always performed through the kind-
ness of our worthy Captain, when the weather per-
mitted, could now be conducted with a composure
hardly less than if we had been in church at home.

Our Sabbath services were well attended, and a
Bible class lesson before the mast on Sunday after-
noons seemed to interest the men. What results
may have followed our ministrations, the great day
will disclose. We could not but feel convinced
that religious services on ship-board are commonly
undertaken at a great disadvantage. The sailors are
divided into two companies, called the larboard
and starboard watches, and have four hour turns of
duty at night, and four and two hour turns in the
day-time, requiring therefore much of the day to
make up the loss of sleep at night, and having
always plenty of work when awake, so that they
have little leisure for receiving instruction. It must

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

13

fee added, that too commonly they have but little
inclination to attend to religious things. But when
the officers of a ship will permit efforts to be made
for their benefit, — and permission should always be
respectfully and discreetly asked, and prudently used
when granted — then should missionaries be willing
gladly to avail themselves of the opportunity of
giving religious instruction to those who so greatly
need it. Repeated instances have been known in
which such endeavors, faithfully and wisely made,
have been attended with the greatest encourage-
ment.

Our own party had morning and evening prayers
in the captain’s cabin, attended usually by the offi-
cers, and a weekly service amongst ourselves for the
study of the Scriptures. The greater part of the
book of Acts was thus brought under review, with
particular reference to its missionary instruction ;
and these times of social religious duty we found to
be peculiarly pleasant and valuable.

Our fine trade winds at length failed us, and after
a while we got to the latitude of the Cape. For
several weeks we were making our “ easting,” that
is, sailing eastwards, in a direct course, as the
degrees of longitude there are short. We were
now in the midst of the southern winter ; the
weather was cold, damp, and most uncomfortable ;
the wind often very high, and the sea rough and
tempestuous. We could read but little, and that
with no satisfaction. Returning sea-sickness, occa-
sionally, made our situation the more disagreeable.

14

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

Several heavy gales came on, one of which was the^
strongest the captain had seen for many years. It
continued for three days, and those were days of
intense anxiety. It was considered extremely un-
certain whether we should be able to resist the
violence of the gale, and we endeavored to pre-
pare our minds for the worst. Blessed be God, our
minds were kept in peace, but it was distressing to
witness the anxiety that prevailed amongst some of
our ship's company. By the good hand of God
upon us, however, we were kept from harm and
brought out of all our distresses, and with thankful
hearts we endeavored to consecrate ourselves anew
to the service of Him, whose protection we had so
manifestly enjoyed. The weather became more
pleasant soon after our course was directed to the
ngrth. Passing rapidly through the trade winds
again, we found the eastern seas, near and under
the equator, as hard to cross as the same latitudes
in the Atlantic, on account of light baffling winds,
and frequent calms. The rest of the voyage was
up the Bay of Bengal, consuming nearly a month,
as the winds were now unfavorable. On the 11th of
October, we descried the pilot vessel, anchored
always off the Sand Heads, far out of sight of land,
and in a few hours we took a pilot on board. In a
short time we succeeded in beating through the
dangerous channels at the mouth of the Hoogley,
and before night we cast anchor in the waters of
that river, the most sacred outlet of the Ganges.

We were now near the island of Sagor ; which

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

15

llamilton described in 1828 , as “a celebrated place
of pilgrimage among the Hindus, on account of the
great sanctity arising from its situation at the
junction of the holiest branch of the Ganges with
the ocean. Many sacrifices are in consequence
here annually performed, of aged persons of both
sexes, which are voluntary, and of children, which
of course are involuntary, the periods fixed for their
celebration being the full moon in November and
January.” This horrible custom was soon after-
wards suppressed by the British. The island is but
partially cultivated and inhabited.

The anchor was hardly down before two or three
boatloads of native fishermen climbed up over the
bulwarks of the Star, and we had the offer of their
marketing and their services to aid in getting up the
river, with such a chattering of their almost inart^
culate words as seemed not unlike the speech of a
troop of monkeys. They were of small, light, and
active frame, dark complexion, agreeable and lively
expression, but with no appearance of intelligence,
and evidently Very poor. Their coming on board
was a common thing to our officers and other pas-
sengers, who had made several visits to Calcutta,
but to us they were objects of extreme interest.
These were the people whom we had come to make
acquainted with the true God and eternal life. But
how hard to believe that such poor, almost naked,
miserable looking beings should ever become intelli-
gent and refined Christians ! Again, as often before
and oftener since, we had to rely on the revealed

2 *

16

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

promise of God, and the assurance of his power and *
infinite grace.

When we were opposite Kedgeree, an English
station about one hundred miles below Calcutta,
where letters by ship are received and forwarded,
we despatched some of our letters to Calcutta,
with a request that a boat might be sent down for
us, as it was very desirable that my wife, whose
health had become greatly impaired, should escape
from the noise of working the ship by frequent
tacking up the narrow channel of the river. Vessels
going to Calcutta during the cold season are often a
week in getting up the river, and they are as long
in coming down during the rainy season, and vice
versA,

On the second day we had the pleasure of meet-
ing the Rev. G. Pearce, a Baptist missionary, and the
Rev. M. Winslow, one of our countrymen, to both
of whom we soon became much attached. They
had kindly come down in a small boat to receive us,
and accompany us up the river. We left the Star
in the afternoon with every feeling of gratitude to
our kind Captain and to Dr. Huffhagle, the surgeon,
for their constant and valuable attention to our
comfort, and of kind regard for the other passengers,
but with no regret at making our escape from the
confinement and the now almost intolerable noise of
the vessel. Our boatmen pulled along cheerily with
the rapid tide; and when the tide turned, they
dropped their anchor, which was but a basket with
stones in it, and wrapping themselves each in a long

VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA.

17

{ sheet of coarse muslin, they were soon fast asleep.
Before morning we were again under weigh, and
when the day broke we were but a few miles from
Garden Reach, below Calcutta.

Our boat people kept close to the shore, and the
banks were so low that we could easily see some
distance in the country back from the river. The
cocoa, palm, and other trees, which to us were as
strange as they were beautiful, were of the greenest
foliage, with fragrant creeping plants climbing
through their branches, and many of them were
laden with fruit, and shining with brilliant flowers.
Strange birds were flying from tree to tree, and
from little cottages, planted thickly under their
overspreading branches, the people were coming
forth to begin their daily labors — men going to the
fields, or casting their nets, and women coming to
the river, filling their earthen water vessels, placiRg
them on their heads, and returning to their homes.
The whole was a beautiful scene, novel in the
highest degree, almost like a picture of some fancy-
land, and yet full of life and freshness. And when
the air came laden and fragrant with the scent of
the earth and its rich vegetation, so different from
the close smell of a ship four months at sea, it was in
the highest degree reviving and exhilarating. My
poor wife, ever passionately fond of country scenes,
but now too enfeebled to bear excitement with safety,
was quite overcome before we re.ached the end of
our sail. Passing the stately European mansions
on Garden Reach, and the East India Company's

18

VOYAGE TO CALCUTl'A.

Botanical Garden, and Bishop’s College on the
opposite side of the river, we were soon in the
midst of increasing multitudes of boats, and the din
of many sounds, until presently we swept under the
walls of Fort William and were in full view of
Government House. Landing at ^ne of the ghats
or stairs, we were soon received with the greatest
kindness by the Rev. W. H. Pearce and his estima-
ble wife. In a few days we were joined by our mis-
sionary companions, who came up with the ship,
and we took pleasure in praising the Lord for his
goodness in bringing us to our desired haven.

INDIA AND THK HINDUS.

19

CHAPTER II.

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

Extent of the country — Soil, and productions — Population — Appear-
ance of the people — Houses — Civilization — Caste.

We had been instructed by the Missionary
Society* to make inquiries on arriving at Calcutta,
as to the most eligible sphere of missionary labor.
The Upper Provinces of India, it was supposed,
might be such a sphere, but we were at liberty to
select our field of labor in any other part of the Easl
that should appear more inviting. We at once pro-
ceeded to fulfil this part of our commission. Having
previously examined various works treating of India,
our aim now was to obtain information partly by
observing ourselves the state of things, but chiefly
from intercourse with intelligent gentlemen who
had long resided in the country. And we were
peculiarly favored in meeting with several Christian
friends, who had extensive and accurate information

* Ihe Western Foreign Missionary Society. This Society was
afterwards merged in the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presby-
terian Church. For an account of these institutions, see a volume by
the Rev. Dr. Green; “Presbyterian Missions/’ published by W. 8.
Martien, Philadelphia, 1838.

20

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

at command, the results of many years’ observation •
and who had also every disposition to promote our
views. I may mention particularly our kind host,
the Rev. W. H. Pearce, who has since entered into
his rest, a devoted Baptist missionary, long the effi-
cient superintendent of the most extensive printing
establishment in India, and one of the best men I
have ever known ; the Rev. Dr. Marshman, venera-
ble for many years of missionary life, as well as for
most extensive knowledge and unquestioned talent ;
the Rev. M. Winslow, our respected countryman,
of^the Ceylon mission, then at Calcutta waiting for
a passage home for his health ; the Rev. Dr. Duff,
the able and eloquent Scotch missionary ; and a
gentleman who occupied a distinguished place in the
Civil Service. The information we received from
these two gentlemen last referred to was highly valu-
able ; the former had been making special inquiries
concerning the part of the country which we had more
particularly in view, and the latter had himself
resided for a number of years in the Upper Pro-
vinces, and being a man of acknowledged talent and
liberal views, and moreover able to appreciate the
missionary movements of the Church of Christ, his
information was extremely useful to us.

Before giving an account of the considerations
which induced our final decision, it may not be out
of place to give some general notices of the country
and people, which may aid the reader in understanding
the importance of our mission. I ought, however,
in fairness to mention that none of the gentlemen, to

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

21

whose names I have taken the liberty of referring,
can be held responsible for the following views, as I
shall make use of information received and conclu-
sions formed at a later period of my acquaintance
with India, than pertains to this stage of the narra-
tive. It is, however, but a slight sketch that can
here be given. Many able and learned volumes
have been written on these subjects, which the
reader who desires to see more satisfactory state-
ments will of course consult.

India is an extensive country, lying between lat.
8° and 35° N. and long. 67° and 92° E. Its
boundaries are the Bay of Bengal and Burmah on
the east, the Himalaya mountains on the entire
north-east, the river Indus and the Arabian Sea on
the north-west and west. These inclose an area of
one million three hundred thousand square miles,
running nearly to a point on the south, in the Indian
ocean, being a territory nearly one third larger than
that of these United States. The word India, as
often used, includes the countries further east ; but I
shall employ it agreeably to the common usage of
late year.s, as the name of the territory whose
boundaries have just been given. The Vindya
mountains or hills extend from the western side
almost to the Ganges, in the parallels of latitude
from 23° to 25°. South of this range the country
is called the Deckan, and sometimes Peninsular
India; the country to the north of these hills is
called Hindustan, though this title is sometimes

22

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

given to the whole country ; and not improperly,
for it literally means t/ie abode of the Hindus.

.The greater part of* this country possesses a soil
of great fertility, particularly the immense plains
watered by the Ganges and its tributaries, embrac-
ing, perhaps, four hundred thousand square miles.
These plains, for the most part of extremely rich,
loamy, and alluvial soil, are amongst the most fertile
and densely inhabited regions of the earth. The
more remote of the north-western provinces, often
called the Upper Provinces, or Upper India, become
rather dry and sandy, with a sparser population, and
towards the lower Indus there is an extensive sandy
desert. What is called Central India, is said to be
an elevated, broken, and rather sterile and thinly
inhabited country. Along the western coast of the
southern part, or Peninsular India, there is a con-
tinuous range of hills, rising sometimes to the height
of six thousand feet, and another, but lower range,
along the eastern side, about one hundred miles back
from the sea ; between these mountainous ranges,
and also between them and the sea, the soil is good,
and supports a large population.

.The climate is, during most of the year, extremely
warm ; and for three or four months, heavy rains fall
almost incessantly. Thus with a good soil, great
heat, and plenty of moisture for a long time in each
year, the fertility of a large part of the land is
almost unbounded, and vegetation is exceedingly rapid
in its growth. Cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, opium,
indigo, rice, and various small grains, are the pro-

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

23

^fuctions of the lower, central, and peninsular pro-
vinces; these are not all grown in the same districts,
but all may be met with. Further to the north,
wheat and the hardier grains are common. Among
the fruits are the cocoa-nut, the banana, the mango,
the guava, &c.

The people are numerous, almost beyond the be-
lief of one who has been brought up in a newly set-
tled country ; the whole number is commonly stated
at about one hundred and fifty millions. When it
is recollected that some large districts are very thinly
inhabited, it will be perceived that a very dense
population is thrown into the remaining, though still
the much larger provinces. Thus in Bengal, a pro-
vince not larger than the states of New York and
Pennsylvania, the number of inhabitants is estimated
at thirty millions.

The complexion of the Hindus varies from that of
the coal black laborers under the burning sun in the
fields, to the olive-color of the wealthy babus, or the
beautiful brunette of the lady of the Zennana. Their
features are commonly very regular and pleasing ;
their hair always dark. In their bodily frame the
natives of the low^er provinces are slight and feeble,
and they are of a timid, efleminate disposition ; but
towards the north-west you find a hardier, bolder
race, amongst whom you often meet with noble-look-
ing men of a proud, military bearing, \voa.ring always
full beards, which add greatly to their fierce appear-
ance.

They live commonly in very poor houses, made

24

INDIA AND TH£ HINDUS.

of bamboo wicker-work, or of clay walls dried irf
the sun, some ten or twelve feel high, and twelve or
fourteen square, without windows ; fire-places are
not needed*. These dwellings are often divided by
a basket-work partition, to provide an inner abode
for the female members of the family. Often a close
hedge or mud wall screens the back yard. Their
houses are nearly always destitute of what we should
call furniture, having neither chairs, tables, nor other
heavy articles, but merely a low rude bedstead, a
mat or two to sit on like tailors on the clay lloor, and
a few simple cooking utensils. This description
applies chiefly to the houses of the common people.
The wealthy and the great live in much larger and
more costly edifices. The Hindus are never found
living in houses standing by themselves, like farm-
houses in this country, but always in villages, if not
in larger towns and cities.

The natives of India are by no means an uncivil-
ized people, though they have made little progress
in the higher attainments of western civilization.
They have, however, a complete division of labor,
with regular employment, established usages, and
settled opinions concerning the subjects with which
they are acquainted. The mass of the people culti-
vate the ground, though many are herdsmen, boat-
men, fishermen, barbers, &c. Blacksmiths, carpen-
ters, weavers, brass-workers, potters, shoemakers,
tailors, jewellers, and a few other mechanics, may be
found in all the large cities. Multitudes are priests,
and not a few are beggars, either from necessity or

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

25

worn religious error. In a few branches of industry
they have attained great excellence, as the Dacca
fine muslins and the Cashmere fabrics bear witness;
but most of their manufactures are of a coarse
quality, and their labor in the fields is performed
with the rudest implements. An observer witnesses
no signs of improvement in their industry or skill.
They are, and have been for centuries, almost sta-
tionary in their position. They wear the same white
muslins, and have the same fondness for showy pro-
cessions, that Alexander the Great witnessed on the
banks of the Indus, four centuries before the time
of our Saviour. Doubtless they then ploughed the
ground with a similar sharp pointed stick, and rowed
their boats with oars projecting far out over the
water, and had their few horses shod by an itinerant
blacksmith, carrying his stock of tools tied up in an
apron.

How are we to account for this wonderfully per-
manent character of everything Indian? It may
be owing partly to the denseness of the population ;
for in countries where the inhabitants are extremely
numerous, and the means of subsistence scarcely
equal to their support, changes are made with great
difficulty. Other causes may have their influence.
I cannot doubt that much should be ascribed to the
system of Caste, which is universally prevalent.
This peculiar system was and continues to be pri-
marily a religious institution, but it has become inter-
woven with the social and civil institutions of the

26

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

country, and indeed with the entire life of the Hin-
dus. It effectually stereotypes the state of things
with which it has become connected. Any general
change would be fatal to its power.

Originally there were but four castes. The Brah-
man, formed from the mouth of Brahma, one of the
Hindu deities, to expound his laws, stands at the
highest point of human elevation ; the gods them-
selves are hardly his superiors ; all rulers who are
not of his own order, are far below his rank ; and for
the most atrocious crimes his life, under the native
law, cannot be taken from him. Then follows the
Kshatriya, formed from the arms of Brahma, to pro-
tect the Brahmans in their spiritual duties. The
noble looking Raj-puts of the western provinces are
generally Kshatriyas, and are in great numbers found
iiM the native regiments of the East India Company,
where they make capital soldiers. Below them are
the Vaissyas, created from the belly^of their deity,
and much inferior to the two higher classes. They
are the ryots or farmers, a simple minded, regular,
peaceful body of people, minding chiefly their own
business, sharing more largely in the quiet blessings
of life, and less in its turmoils, than any other class
of people. Still lower are the Sudras, formed to be
servants to the Brahmans from the feet of their god.
Thus does this system exalt the Brahman tribe, and
degrade all the other classes of the people. It was
probably introduced to promote and perpetuate the
power of the priestly class, as the various monastic

INDIA AND THE UINDHO.

27

/Histitutions are made subsidiary to the power and
elevation of the Roman ecclesiastics above the com*
mon people.

It would seem that the original features of this
institution have, in the progress of many centuries,
become greatly changed. It would now be a difficult
task to determine a Hindu’s employment, or even
his relative standing among* his countrymen, by his
relation to these general divisions of the system.
Numerous sub-divisions of caste have occurred, and
many mixed castes exist, though new sects are now
seldom or never formed. Perhaps few subjects are
more embarrassing than the formation and rules of
these mixed classes ; I shall not attempt to describe
them. It will be sufficient to note that while the
original classification still exists as the basis of all
the existing varieties, and in a great measure deter'*
mines their rank, still these smaller divisions have
landmarks of their own, and their usages are tena-
ciously adhered to by their respective members. At
the present day every occupation is allotted to a
distinct sect. A person of one caste never eats with
one of a different caste, nor are marriage connex-
ions formed between them. The system is heredi-
tary, and so is commonly the occupation ; the son of
a farmer being commonly a farmer, the son of a
shop-keeper a shop-keeper.

I have already mentioned the strong grasp of this
system on its subjects ; no departure from its usages
will be tolerated. There can be no change but by
falling, no rising to a higher class, nor transition from

28

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

one to another ; and the transgression of the smallest; *.
ceremonial would precipitate even a Brahman to
the bottom of society. Provision is made, however,
for restoring those who have fallen to their former
standing. Liberal presents and bountiful feasts to
the Brahmans have great efficacy in expiating the
offence incurred by a departure from the usages of
this system, if the penitent transgressor will but walk
more strictly for the future. It would be a depart-
ure from the usages of caste to adopt any improve-
ment in any kind of employment; and the violation
of these usages would be instantly visited with the
severest punishment — the loss of property, of reputa-
tion, of employment, and even the hope of obtaining
from the nearest relation the cold charity bestowed
on common beggars by the hand of strangers.

« Here is one great difficulty preventing the conver-
sion of this people to Christianity. To receive the
Sacrament of the Lord’s Supper, in company with
other communicants, would be a violation of caste,
unless the officiating minister and all the communi-
cants were of the same caste; and the same diffi-
culty is apparent as to other Christian duties. Nor
is it less a hinderance to all improvement in the tem-
poral affairs of the people. It is a heavy weight
crushing down the spirit of enterprise, even though
enterprise in that land is goaded on by necessity, and
quickened by the keenest appetite of covetousness.

It raises a wall around the Hindu, which he never
dreams of climbing over or throwing down. He
concludes that such is his fate. **Hamara dastur

INDIA AND THE HINDUS.

29

, ftai,” “ it is our custom,” is his resigned, passive reply
to every proposal of a change. Surely this dreadful
system shall not always bind down the minds of the
people of India. Its very weight and bondage will
conduce the sooner to its being thrown off, when
the people begin to see its many direful evils. And
other considerations, which cannot ^ere be intro-
duced, serve to show that the day is drawing nigh
when this master-piece of the great spiritual adver-
sary's invention to enslave the minds of men, shall
be broken into a thousand fragments, and it shall be
known on the pages of history as one of the almost
incredible things of former ages.

30

ritfi lltNDUd.

CHAPTER IIL

THR HINDUS CONTINURD.

IPoverly of the People ; how accounted for — Literature — Religion.

From the account already given of their houses
and style of living, it will be easily inferred that the
Hindus are generally a very poor people. There
are a few persons of large wealth, chiefly merchants*
bankers, and farmers of the government revenue
from landed property ; but most of the people are
• extremely poor. They live on two scanty vegetable
meals a day, clothe themselves with the coarsest cot-
ton fabrics, and lodge in hovels such as have been
described. In the part of the country through which
I travelled, which contains two thirds of the popu-
lation of India, the common rate of wages for labor-
ing men was from two and a half to four rupees a
month, or from one dollar and twenty-five cents to
two dollars. This was their entire compensation,
as they received neither clothes nor board in addi-
tion ; and moreover they had no Sabbaths, those
blessed days of rest to the poor man.

This poverty is not owing to indolence, for they
are an industrious, though not an energetic people ;
nor is it owing to want of thrift, for no people know

THE HINDUS.

31

better how to make a few coppers buy a good sup-
ply of food. Nor is it owing, as it appears to me, to
the oppressive government of their present rulers.
It must be admitted, however, that the Hindus are
losers under their present government in one import-
ant matter, though it is difficult to form an accurate
opinion of their disadvantage. The revenues of the
East India Company and the income of their servants,
are not all spent in India; nor does Commerce re-
store to the Hindus what they lose by this constant
drain of their pecuniary means. Their former rulers
lived and died amongst them, and though their exac-
tions might have been ruinous to individuals, yet
they did not diminish the amount of money in circu-
lation among the people at large ; what one man was
deprived of, another enjoyed — it may have been most
iniipiitously ; yet the money was still kept in India.
The British succeeded the Mohammedans as the
rulers of India, and they have greatly improved the
condition of the common people; but they may not
have sufficiently changed the general system of their
predecessors, so as to allow to the cultivators of the
soil a larger subsistence from their labors. The
amount of taxation, of every kind, under the East
India Company, has been stated at considerably less
than one dollar on the average to each Hindu — a sum
which does not appear excessive, and which, poor as
the mass of the people are, probably would not be
burdensome if it were returned through other chan-
nels, as is the case in nearly all other countries, to
the people at large. About £3,500,000, or nearly

3

32

THE HINDUS.

seventeen millions of dollars, it is stated, are annually
remitted to England, being rather more than one
sixth of the whole amount of taxes paid to the British
by the Hindus. It may also be questioned whether
the manner of administering the government of India
is not too purely foreign and English ; and some
might doubt whether it is sufficiently responsible,
not to the Hindus, who are certainly incapable at pre-
sent of governing themselves, on any enlightened and
enlarged views of polity, but to the British people ;
for India must now be regarded as a dependency of
the British Empire.

The British government of India is attended with
its disadvantages, no <loubt; but it secures to every
man the j)ossession of his property, the protection
from illegal violence of his person and his family,
and the redress of his grievances, so far as that can
be ellected ainongst so corrupt a people. In one
word, it is a government of Law, conferring blessings
which were unknown under Hindu and Mohamme-
dan rule. Then the wealthy studiously concealed
their wealth, and clad themselves in the dress of the
poor. Then no man’s wife or daughter was secure
from insult, and it could hai’dly be said that any
man’s life was safe. Lawless despotism reigned over
the land, which was the more galling because in the
hands of numerous and constantly changing rajahs
and nabobs. Perhaps one of the most satisfactory
pooofs of the good influence of British rule in India
is found in the fact often witnessed, that whenever a
district or town, that previously belonged to a native

THE HINDUS.

33

king or chief, comes under the authority of the British,
immediately the natives remove into it, and the num-
ber of its inhabitants largely increases. Such was
the case at Lodiana, where I was settled, and at
other places that came under my own observation.
The population of Lodiana in 1834 was some twenty
thousand souls, who were subject to an old Sikh
chief. He died in that year, leaving no heirs, and
his possessions fell to the British as the paramount
power. Immediately the number of the inhabitants
began to increase, until they reached eighty thousand
in a few years.

The "great body of the Hindus were always, under
every variety of government, a very poor people.
Their present poverty, therefore, is no new thing.
Nor arc famines, and the lamentable loss of life,
thereby, new dispensations in-that country. Perhaps,
also, in a country of which many provinces contain
a population so densely overgrown, it could hardly
be otherwise than that most of its inhabitants would
be compelled to live on short allowances. The means
of subsistence are not proportioned to the number of
mouths to be supplied. And this natural evil has no
doubt been made worse by the selfishness of com-
merce, in exporting to other countries large quan-
tities of rice for the provision of people who can
afford to pay a better price for their bread. But the
main cause of Hindu poverty and suffering, in my
judgment, is the intolerable burden of their religious
system, with its countless hosts of unprofitable priests
and faquirs ; its multitude of beggars, earning reli-

34

THE HINDUS.

gious merit, not urged by necessity to seek for alms ;
its numerous long, expensive, and painful pilgrimages
tQ holy shrines and places, involving thousands of
families every year in utter ruin ; its incessant drain-
ing of the hard-earned gains of every laboring man
and woman to satisfy the exactions of the Brahmans
for priestly services, in ways and for occasions as
numerous as the liours of every man’s life, and with
a rigor of superstition incredible to those who have
not themselves been not merely witnesses but stu-
dents of its enormity ; and, perhaps, more than all,
the apathetic, death-like influence of caste, withering
and destroying all enterprise, improvement, and
hope of bettering their condition.

The literature of the Indians is very peculiar in
its character, nor is it easy to form an accurate
opinion of its value. Mr. Colebrooke has given a
general outline or analysis of their writings in the
Asiatic llesearches, which presents them in a suffi-
ciently favorable light. From this paper a few
particulars may be (pioted. There are six proper
Shastras, in which all knowledge, divine and human,
is said to be comprehended. I^hese are the Veda,
Upaveda, Vedanga, Furana, Dherrna, and Dersana,
The four Vedas, the fountain of all knowledge, treat
of works, faith, and worship. Some of these are of
very ancient origin, being written in Sanscrit so ob-
scure and concise that modern scholars with difficulty
understand them. They are of great extent, con-
sisting of two thousand sections, with many hun-

THE HINDUS.

35

dred branches in various divisions and sub-divisions.
The Tantra, Mantra, and other incantations, which
are very numerous, belong to this class. The com-
mentaries on the Vedas are said to be innumerable.
The Upavedas, or sub-scriptures, are deduced from
the Vedas, and treat of medicine, music, archery,
under which the whole art of war is included, archi-
tecture, &c. Mr. Colebrooke says, tliat the medical
books contain much useful information concerning
the virtues of Indian roots and plants. The medical
practice of the Hindus does not deserv'^e the name of
a regular science. Three of the six Vedangas treat
of grammar, a fourth of the obscure words in the
A'cdas, a fifth of religious ceremonies, and another of
the whole range of mathematics. The Sanscrit pro-
sody is said to be easy and beautiful, containing all
the measures of the Greeks. Astronomical works in ‘
the Sanscrit are very numerous, seventy-nine of
them being specified in one list. Subordinate to
these general classes are the three last mentioned of
the proper Shastras, containing the poems, the body
of law, and the philosofihical treatises. The Ra-
rnayana and the Mahabharat are the principal poems;
the former is “ a complete epic poem on one con-
tinued, interesting, and heroic action the latler is
superior in its reputation for holiness. The eighteen
Puranas, of which the Bhagawat, or life of Krishna,
is the last, ’‘contain ancient traditions, embellished
by poetry, or disguised by fables.’* The system of
Law consists of many tracts in high estimation, of
which the most celebrated is the Code of Menu, on

36

THE HINDUS.

which there «Tre numerous commentaries. The Der-
sana, or Piiilosophicjil writings, are also very nume-
rous^ and are explained by many commentators.
The Vedanta is considered analogous to the Platonic,
the first Nya ya to the Peripatetic, and other classes
to corresponding Greek schools. Besides the Slias-
tras, or sacred writings, there are books for the use
of the Sudras, or lowest and far the most numerous
class of the Hindus; but the paper from which these
notices are quoted, does not give a satisfactory
account of them, nor have I elsewhere' met with a
description of them. The longest life would not be
suiricient for the perusal of these Shastras. The
Puranas alone are said to contain nearly five hundred
thousand stanzas, with a million more, probably, in
the other works mentioned. •

All these writings are regarded as sacred. Not
only the biographies of their gods, but their works
on law, astronomy, and other subjects, are con.sidered
of divine authority.

Extensive as are the writings of the Hindus, there
are comparatively few learned men amongst them,
and they are by no means correct general scholars ;
and their acquirements are seldom of much practical
value. Their studies have the cflect of disciplining
their faculties, so that they are often acute and ready
reasoners. The great body of the people, however,
are ignorant in the extreme. They are debased
alike by their religion and their poverty. Their
religion has no days of instruction, their temples
have no preachers, and their poverty leaves no time

THE HINDUS.

37

for the cultivation of the mind. Besides these causes
of ignorance is another more universal and powerful,
the degraded condition of the female sex. Pre-
vented both by their religion and their social usages
from acquiring the simplest elements of written
knowledge, never seen in the schools, neither ho-
nored nor cherished by their parents, brothers, or
husbands, they can impart but little valuable know-
ledge to their oftspring. The mothers throughout
the land being thus unfitted for their high office as
the earliest teachers, the children grow up in a great
measure untaught and vicious ; and the time of youth,
the only season of leisure to most Hindus, passes
away without instruction, discipline, or improve-
ment.

The religion of the Hindus is a very largo sub-*
ject; to do it justice would require a volume. I
shall endeavor to present merely a few notices and
remarks of a general character concerning it.

It is supposed that about one seventh part of the
Hindus are followers of the false prophet. Their
faith is like that of their sect everywhere, and their
practice differs but little from that of their heathen
countrymen. They are hardly less superstitious,
nor at all less addicted to immoral practices.
Amongst the pagan Hindus there is a considerable
diversity of sects, whose religious tenets arc various
and often contradictory. The Budhists and the
Jains hold opinions that are irreconcilable with the
Brahmanical forms of belief. The votaries of the

38

THE HINDUS,

latter constitute the much larger part of the
people.

According to their belief, “ the great deity Brahm
remains in obscurity, and superstition is never
allowed to profane his name, which is always kept
clear of fiction. Three energies, however, the cre-
ating, preserving, and destroying, are embodied
under the names of Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva, to
each of whom a female or passive energy is attach-
ed. These have all human forms, diversified by the
imagination in various ways ; and as the two last
are supposed to have descended many times, each
avatar or incarnation furnishes a distinct deity, to
whom worship is addressed. Of the three specified,
Brahma alone has no incarnations, and is never
worshipped. Besides these three principal gods there
is a whole jianthcoii of minor deities. The sea, the
winds, the heavens, the elements, the sun, moon, and
stars, every river, fountain, and stream, is either a
deity in itself, or has a divinity presiding over it,
nothing being done without the intervention of
supernatural power. Descending still lower, there
are myriads of demi-gods of a most extraordinary
description, and numerous beyond the powers of
calculation. A little red paint smeared over a stone,
a lump of clay, or the stump of a tree, converts it
into a god, worshipped by the lower classes, and
saluted by the upper with much apparent devotion.’’

This extract from Hamilton’s Gazetteer presents
a succinct sketch of the objects of worship among
the greater part of the Hindus. Some writers enu-

THE HINDUS.

39

nferate seventeen principal deities ; the whole num-
ber, composed of all the classes, is often stated at
three hundred and thirty millions, which, we may
suppose, is a large number intended to convey the
idea of infinity. It is, however, doubtless true that
in India the gods are more numerous than their
worsliippers.

The metaphysical among the educated classes
will describe their religion as a pure theism, ex-
plaining away what seems contrary to the divine
unity in the number of gods and goddesses, and
putting a spiritual construction on what is gross in
the actual prevalence of idolatry ; and they will
express many just views of the character of God.
Others hold such notions as are but atheism, and
others more numerous arc pantheists ; while the mass
of the people, incapable of refined speculations, are
iKjither more nor less than idolaters, worshipping
“ lords many and gods many.”

If we look now at the common observances of
religion, and the degree of attention given to its
worship, we must consider the Hindus a highly reli-
gious j)eople. Nothing is undertaken, no event
occurs, hardly an hour passes, without the perform-
ance of religious services. These are sometimes
very simple, perhaps merely the reverent lifting
of the folded hands to the forehead ; sometimes,
very difficult and expensive, such as prayers and
fastings, repeated bathings, pilgrimages, painful self
inflictions, gifts of flowers, rice, and money, sacri-
fices of goats, bullocks, and formerly of human life.

3 *

40

the HINDUS.

The birth of a child, giving his name, marriage,
engaging in business, making a journey, sickness,
death’, funeral rites, and a thousand other things, are
the occasions for performing religious ceremonies;
and as the Brahmans alone can officiate, and are
always paid for their services according to the utmost
measure of the votary’s means, they are extremely
watcliful to prevent any omission or neglect of ritual
duty. It has been well ascertained that the rite of
the suttee, or self-immolation, was strongly urged in
many cases on poor widows by these priests, who
were instigated by the mercenary motive of sharing
in the presents, which were always made by surviv-
ing friends on such occasions.

There are numerous religious buildings, or tem-
])Ies, of a great variety in their structure and size,
wliich are only places of ju-ayor and ritujil solem-
nities, and not of religious instruction. There are
no regular days of rest and religious teaching, but
numerous festivals are observed. These diller in
length from a few hours to several weeks ; they
arc professedly observed by the followers of the god
in whose honor they arc held, but other sects often
unite in their celebration; and they are usually
accompanied with great frivolity and dissipation.

Without going more at length into an account of
this religion, I would now notice its defects and
faults. It gives no correct revelation of the charac-
ter and will of God. It provides no atonement for
sin, nor any motives nor means of purifying the
fountains of thought and affection in our depraved

fH£ HINDUS.

41

Wlature. It imposes no restraint on the wickedness
of men. It yields no support nor any consolation in
the time of sickness, calamity, and bereavement.
It sheds no light on the grave, — opens no door of
hope beyond the tomb. It is thus a religion of dark-
ness, — cheerless, gloomy, full of despair to the soul
of a sinful man.

It is, moreover, worse than all this. We have
seen its oppressive influence on the temporal condi-
tion of the people. Besides this, it is most demo-
ralizing. It authorizes the commission of various
crimes, amongst which, to certain classes, that of
remorseless murder ; see, for proof, the work pub-
lished by the Jiritish India Government, coneerning
Thuggee.^ The gods and goddesses are the exem-
plars of every vice and crime. Their history is
often outrageously shocking to every pure mind, and
so is their worship. Abandoned \vomen arc a part
of the establishment connected with many temples;
dissolute priests abound, and their sacred character

♦ “ RaniaFPcojina, or a Vocabulary of the peculiar language used by
the Tliugs, with an Introduction and Appendix descriptive of the sys-
tem pursued by that Fraternity, and of the measures which have been
adopted by the Supreme Government of India for its Suppression: Cal-
cutta.

Of this work a distinguished civil iiin in India haa remarked, “It
contains, I think, the mo.st complete e.xposure that has over been made
of the evils of idolatry. Nothing which the mis.sionaries ever alleged
against it is so conclusive as this. Thuggee is a religious system, and
the Thugs practise murder, just as Christians do charity, in obedience
to the will of their God.”

42

THE HINDUS.

enables them to become more depraved than vil6
men of other classes. Polygamy prevails, though
checked by the poverty of the people ; and it is lawful,
because the gods have many wives. A priest has
been known to have sixty wives, married for their
dower, and for gratifying his own base passions.
Poor woman is degraded to a very low degree ; her
religion never inspires her mind with pure aims, nor
gives her an honorable standing, nor opens to her a
better prospect hereafter. Truth, uprightness, and
confidence are seldom found in business transactions.
It is almost impossible to ascertain the merits of
cases brought before the English judges, so unscru-
pulous and utterly false are the witnesses. Part-
ners in tlic same shop often have their separate
locks, to j)revent one entering unless the others are
also present. These things, and many such like
things, in themselves most evil, and not the less evil
because flowing fairly from fallen human nature, are
the more dreadful, because they are the oflspring of
religion, the imitation by men of the character and
conduct of their gods!

I am well aware that many writers have spoken
more favorably of the Hindus, but I would ask
the reader to distinguish between things that difler.
There is much in the manners of a Hindu, especially
in his respectful deference to his superiors (and all
Europeans are immeasurably his superiors, or so
regarded by him) that is certainly very prepossessing
and pleasing. There is also amongst them.selves

THE HINDUS.

43

c'ommonly the entire absence) of rude and violent
conduct, and between persons of the same station in
life, there is a beautiful courteousness of manner.
Their habits of living, moreover, are remarkably
simple, temperate, and regular ; and there is often a
touching regard for their relations. And yet these
things have their contraries, especially the one last
mentioned, for you often see the aged and sick ex-
posed to death on the banks of the Ganges, or most
cruelly neglected at home. But still, there is much
to admire in the manners of the Hindus, and much
also in their character as it appears to a superficial
observer, especially if he survey them from an elevat-
ed position. It gives me pleasure to admit, also,
that there are men who evince a praiseworthy regard
to their engagements. And yet I fully agree with
those writers who represent the Hindu character
in darker shades. The favorable traits just men-
tioned have misled amiable religious men, whose
knowledge of the native character, as it appears
among the natives, was but limited ; and these same
things may have convinced men, not themselves ac-
quainted with the evil of the human heart, nor of its
sinfulness before God, that the Hindus are already
an excellent, if not a virtuous people. But the reader
of these pages, I trust, will form his opinion of the
statements brought under his notice, by the unerring
standard of the Divine oracles. And in their light,
I fear not to claim for these millions of heathen, his
most sincere compassion. No people more greatly

44

tlt£ HINDUS.

need the enlightening, purifying, and saving influen-
ces of the religion of the Bible.

I now return to the mission, undertaken with the
humble hope of promoting the best interests of this
people, by making known to them the gospel of the
grace of God.

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

45

chapter IV.

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

North- westiTti provinces ; reasons for the choice of — Educational
movement — Authorities friendly — Arrival timely — Missionary co-
operation.

After carefully weighing the information we had
received, Mr. Reed and myself were clear in our
conviction that the north-western provinces pre-
sented the best lield of labor for the commence-
ment of our edbrts. They contain a numerous and
hardy population, with a better climate than the
lower provinces ; and there is a ready access to the
lower ranges of the Himalaya mountains, in case of
the failure of health. Tliey were then, and they con-
tinue to be, in a great measure unoccupied by the
missionary institutions of other bodies of Christians.
And tlieir position connects them with other coun-
tries in which no efTorts have yet been made to intro-
duce the Cfiristian religion. The Sikhs, to whom
our attention at first was specially directed, are a
distinct people, neither Mohammedans nor Pagans in
their religion, though their manner of life differs
but little from that of the pagan Hindus. They
inhabit chiefly the Panjab, but many of their chiefs

46

CHOtCB OP A MISSIONARY F1£L0<

live on the south side of the Sutlej under British
protection. The territories of the latter are called
the Protected Sikh States. Though a part of the
Scriptures had been translated into their language,
the Gurmukhi, by the Serampore Society, no mis-
sionary establishment had ever been formed for their
benefit. It was deemed, moreover, highly impor-
tant to choose a large field, and one sufficiently
removed from the missions of other Societies, so
that there might be ample room for extended efforts.

These general considerations appeared of suffi-
cient weight to authorize our deciding on this part of
the country. We were aware that it would require
a tedious journey and considerable expense to reach
any given point in it ; but we considered that these
were disadvantages which some missionaries would
• have to surmount, if the means of grace should ever
be established among those destitute people. We
had the happiness of finding that our choice was
highly approved by our Calcutta advisers, amongst
whom we had the privilege now of consulting with
the Rev. Dr. Corrie, who afterwards became Bishop
of Madras. He was absent in the Upper Provinces
on our arrival, where he had been for many years
stationed as a Chaplain, but had now returned ; and
we accounted it no small favor to be allowed to see
so much of one who was not less beloved for his
amiable and pure character as a gentleman, than
revered and venerated for his excellence and faithful-
ness as a Christian minister.

Besides the general reasons mentioned above,

CHOICE OP A MISSIONARY FIELD.

47

th*ere was just at that time a movement to promote
the spread of the English language and learning in
some of the important cities in the Upper Provinces.
English Colleges had been established by the govern-
ment at Agra and Delhi ; and instruction of a similar
kind was wanted at some other places, one of which
was Lodiana. This was the frontier post then
occupied by the British on the north-west, a town
of some twenty thousand or twenty-five thousand
people, with the prospect of a large increase. It
contained a number of Afghans and Cashmerians
in addition to Sikhs and Hindus. The Afghans
were from one thousand to two thousand in number.
They were chiefly the retainers of two exiled kings,
who, after a variety of sad fortunes, one of them
having been cruelly deprived of his sight, had taken
refuge under the protection of the British. For
nearly twenty years these ex-kings had been living
at Lodiana, receiving a large annual pension from the
generosity of the East India Company. The younger
of them was afterwards on the throne of Caubul, so
various are the changes of Eastern politics ! The
Cashmerians were more numerous. They had been
driven from their homes by a famine and by the op-
pression of the Sikhs, to whom their beautiful valley
was in subjection. Several thousands of them were
now following tlieir various operations, chiefly that
of weaving, at Lodiana. From these classe.s, and
from the Hindus, a number of scholars could be pro-
cured to attend an English school. Some of the
Sikh chiefs, also, were anxious to have their sons

48

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

acquainted with English ; and an Afghan chief, livihg
west of the Indus, had actually sent his son to the
care, of the Political Agent at Lodiana for the same
purpose — an event so singular amongst the people of
that part of the world, that he received credit, I pre-
sume, for being induenced by a desire to acquire
political knowledge for his own use, rather than the
instructions of a school for his son. Tliis desire of
an English education was not confined to Lodiana,
but existed at Amballa and other places in the north-
western provinces. It was understood that the
government had under consideration the question of
extending their educational system so as to embrace
Amballa and Lodiana, both in the Protected Sikh
States. It was indeed highly probable that some
secular institution of learning would soon be formed
at one or both of these cities.

Our Calcutta advisers rightly deemed it of great
importance, that in the first elforts to be made, the
Christian religion should not be divorced from edu-
cation, as is unhappily the case in the government
Colleges and most of the schools for English learn-
ing in India ; the inlluence of such seminaries,
therefore, only tending to the overthrow of the exist-
ing religion of the country, without at all introducing
the Christian faith in its stead. And they and our-
selves both considered it advisable to connect our
proceedings, in the first instance, if possible, with
this Educational movement. Having decided on
these provinces as our sphere of duty, it seemed ex-
tremely desirable to enter on our vocation, by taking

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

49

the lead in the efforts for the instruction of the peo-
ple ; thus gaining effectual access to the minds of
influential classes, without awakening their religious
prejudices, which were represented as peculiarly
strong in provinces so lately brought under British
rule. The same consideration, though with dimi-
nished force, applied to our intercourse at first with
the English gentlemen in charge of the government
of the Up[)er Provinces. Education was common
ground for them and ourselves to stand on, until they
could become acquainted with our views and plans
of ])roceeding. For it slumld be remembered, that
we were the first American missionaries who had
attem])ted to form stations in Upper India, and our
character, object, and mode of proceedings were all
to be developed. If favorable irnpressions should be
made by the ])ioneers of our enterprise, it would
greatly conduce to the comfort and success of both
themselves and their future associates. Indeed, in
the Protected Sikh Stat<'s almost everything de})end-
cd, in the first efforts, on the friendly countenance of
the political agents and other English gentlemen. In
these circumstances, the kind offices of the gentle-
man in the Civil Service, to whom I have referred
as one of our friendly advisers, were invaluable,
lie was one of the most able and successful sup-
porters of the change of policy in the Government
patronage of education, whereby the antiquated and
cumbrous systems of oriental error were made to
give place to the liberal and useful branches of Euro-
pean knowledge ; and the educational movement in

50

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

the north-west had already found in him a warm arid
efficient advocate. His official and friendly rela-
tions, moreover, with the officers of the government
in the Sikh States, as well as his position in the
Cabinet, to use our Washington phrase, were pre-
cisely tliose which rendered his cordial advocacy of
our object of the greatest service. We should have
been blind, indeed, not to have seen and recognised
in these things the kind interposition of Him, in
whose cause we were engaged, and who thus gave
us favor in the sight of his servants, the rulers of the
land.

This extended account will not be considered too
long, when the reader adverts to the apprehension
which existed amongst many persons in our own
country, as to our reception by the British authorities.
They had feared that difficulties might be interposed
to prevent our proceeding to the interior. Some of
our countrymen, twenty years before, had been re-
quired by the men then in office to withdraw from
the territories of the East India Company. And so
little was known at home of the favorable change in
the administration of the India government, and of
the liberal and enlightened policy of Lord W. C.
Bentinck, the Governor General at the time of our
arrival, that it was considered doubtful by some of
our best informed men whether we would be allowed
to form a settlement in the interior. In England
there is often much complaint, by those connected
with India affairs, of the want of information and the
apathy of the community at large in regard to every-

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD. 61

thing in India. In the United States, for obvious
reasons, there is still less information and interest
concerning such matters ; but “ the times of this
ignorance,” we may hope, are passing away, to be
succeeded by a lively concern, especially amongst
religious people, in everything affecting the welfare of
so large a portion of the human family. Our misappre-
hensions and misgivings as to being allowed to pro-
ceed into the interior of the country were entirely
without foundation. We obtained the full permission
of the Governor General in Council to proceed to the
places we had mentioned in a petition, in which we had
stated concisely but clearly our object, and requested
liberty to reside in the north-western provinces. It
was considered advisable in the first instance to send
up such a petition, in order to preclude all suspicion
as to our character and plans, and to remove any
possible hinderance from the path of those who should
follow us. For the favorable presenting of this paper,
we were indebted to the gentleman whose kindness
I have already spoken of. We can now look to a
missionary home in India with no more apprehension
on this point than we should contemplate a removal
from one of our own States to another.

I should not dismiss this point, without mentioning
the view impressed on my mind by Lord William
Bentinck’s administration of the Supreme Govern-
ment in India. It was his high honor to suppress
the horrible rite of the suttee, to encourage the study
of useful knowledge in the government colleges, to

52

C'UOICE OF A MIBSIONAKY FIELD.

abolish the odious and oppressive system of transit-
duties, and to manifest a steady regard to the prin-
ciple, itself not more benevolent than true, that the
present rulers of India have been intrusted with the
power to control the destinies of its myriads of people,
only in order to promote their best advance in know-
ledge and general improvement. And it would be
extremely ungrateful in me not to acknowledge at
the same time our obligations to Lady William Bcn-
tiiick, for her Christian favor towards our object.
Her influence was given to promote it with a kind-
ness worthy of herself, and in a manner the most
considerate and effective.

Our arrival in India appeared now to be most
seasonable. If we had arrived at Calcutta at an
earlier period, the special providences which seemed
to ope.n a door before us at Lodiana had not then
occurred, and we should jn-obably have been led to
choose some other part of the country as the scene
of our labors. If we liad arrived one year later,
we should doubtless have found the ground pre-
occupied ; some secular institution of learning would
have so completely blocked up the way, that it might
not liave appeared practicable to form a religious
establishment. We could not doubt that we were
under the guidance of Him who orders all things
according to the counsel of his will, and who ever
goes before his people, disposing their way so as to
promote their best usefulness and his own highest
glory.

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

53

*Nor could we fail to acknowledge with gratitude the
kind and Christian reception extended to us by our
English missionary brethren. The Calcutta and
Serampore missionaries, and those whom we after-
wards met at other places, of every denomination,
not only gave us a cordial welcome as co-laborers
with themselves, but cheerfully granted us every
information and advice, often greatly needed by per-
sons so inexperienced as we were, and always valu-
able from their long acquaintance with the country
and people. The remembrance of much pleasant
Christian intercourse with them, often awakens many
tender and sacred feelings. There is surely some-
thing as delightful as it is singular in the bond of
brotherhood, which unites all the sincere followers
of Christ. Here were Englishmen, Scotchmen, Ger-
mans, and Americans, Episcopalians, lnde])ondents.
Baptists, and Presbyterians, dwelling together in
Christian charity; laboring together, not perhaps
with perfect harmony of views, for that is reserved
for a better state, but with mutual confidence and
esteem ; not laying aside their respective peculiari-
ties, but so strongly animated by a common spirit
and a common aim, that their various differences did
not prevent their respecting each other, and seeking
eiich other’s highest usefulness. May this spirit of
forbearance and of love ever dwell in the hearts of
all missionaries and all Christian people !

In the review, therefore, of the many favorable
circumstances under which our missionary course

54

CHOICE OF A MISSIONARY FIELD.

was commenced in India, it were not only blindness,
but ingratitude, not to recognise the hand of God in
thus prospering our Way. And the persuasion that
His presence and blessing were indeed with us,
proved our support and our ground of hope in many
dark and trying hours.

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

55

CHAPTER V.

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

Death of Mrs. Lowrio — Decision to remain at Calcutta till the rainy
season — Study of the language — Missionary efforts, three kinds —
Mr. Reed’s illness and return.

It was but a few weeks after our arrival at Cal-
cutta that we were called to bow in submission to
the will of God, in what was to me a very distress-
ing dispensation. My wife’s health was by no
means firm on leaving the United States, but her
medical advisers thought her going to a warmer and
less changeable climate would prove a means of re-
storing her strength. During the voyage, however,
she became gradually weaker, and before we reached
Calcutta, it was apparent that her days would soon
be numbered. She was herself the first to perceive
the true nature of her illness ; she calmly prepared
herself for its fatal result ; and she endeavored to
prepare our minds for the hour of parting. Never
have I known any person in similar circumstances,
whose mind was kept more perfectly in peace, and
whose prevailing desire was stronger “ to depart and
to be with Christ.” With a blessed Christian hope,
she departed this life on the 21st November. It is
4

56

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

not expedient to give an extended notice here of ohe
who was greatly beloved. Her former pastor, the
Rev. A. G. Fairchild, D.D,, was kind enough to
prepare a small volume of her memoirs, which has
met with much acceptance, having passed through
several editions, and which, there is reason to be-
lieve, has rendered good service to the cause to
which she had devoted her life. Her remains now
rest in the Scottish Burial Ground, Calcutta.

I have forborne to speak of my own feelings in
this time of deep aflliction. There are dispensations
in the lives of most men, whose desolating severity
no language can describe. There are hours of cold
despair, which nature could not long endure. The
blessed Gospel is our best and our only real solace
in such times of trial. The support of our holy
religion was graciously vouchsafed, as I trust, to
myself and my companions in this bereavement ;
and though the early removal of one who a])pcared
so well fitted for usefulness was a dark event, we
were assured that we should sorrow not as those who
have no hope, that we should weep only for our-
selves and for the heixthen, and that we should know
hereafter, as we could believe now, that infinite
kindness and wisdom had been displayed in our
calamity.

A week or two before this mournful event, it had
been agreed that Mr. and Mrs. Reed should proceed
alone to the station we had concluded to occupy,
and they had made some progress in their prepara-

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

57

tfon for the journey. But on further reflection it
was thought better to delay their departure. It was
now evident that Mrs. Lowrie could not linger long
amongst us, and they, with the kindest consideration
of our feelings, did not wish to leave us alone in the
approaching hour of death. Besides this it was
urged by our friends in Calcutta that the river at
that season was low, and the winds adverse, so that
it would be a very tedious and diflicult voyage to
ascend it. And as the hot winds would prevail in
the upper provinces before they could finish the land
part of their route, it was deemed better to postpone
their journey. It was therefore finally concluded
that they should remain at Calcutta until the next
rainy season, and then I could proceed with them ;
in the meantime we could prosecute the study of the
native language. If they had gone agreeably to our
first decision, I have often endeavored to imagine
what would probably have been the subsequent his-
tory of our mission. It has been well remarked,
that “ we do not know what are the small, nor what
the great events of our lives sometimes those
which appear smallest are yet attended with the
gravest consequences. If Mr. Reed had proceeded,
possibly his valuable life might have been greatly
prolonged ; and yet the journey, instead of proving
beneficial, might have rendered his days fewer in
number. One thing has seemed not improbable, if
he had proceeded with his wife as his only com-
panion, that, owing to the length of the journey, and
the difficulty of making it with so little acquaintance

58

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

with the people and their ways as we then possessed,
which would of course have been much more seri-
ous -to a married man than to one who had but him-
self to provide for, my excellent associate might
have been induced to stop at some of the many
important j)laces much nearer Calcutta, which were
not less in want of missionary services than Lodiana
and other places, in the far northwest. I am sure
he would have been strongly urged to occupy some
of these stations. Thus it might easily have hap-
pened, not to say that it probably would, that the
missionary efforts of our Church in India would have
been undertaken under widely different circum-
stances from what eventually occurred. Nor liave
I any doubt, having now the history of nearly seven-
toen years to confirm the opinion, that our first posi-
tion was on many accounts preferable to any other,
as a point from which to commence our efforts.
Other cities had a larger population, and could be
reached in less time, and at less expense, but at no
other could more favorable introducing influences
have been enjoyed ; at no other could our position
have been more distinctly marked, nor our character
and object more accurately estimated by the foreign
residents of the Upper Provinces; at no other were
we less likely to find ourselves laboring “ in another
man’s line of things made ready to our hand,” or to
occupy ground that other bodies of Christians would
shortly cultivate ; and, not to insist on the impor-
tant consideration of health, no other place could be
more eligible in its relations to other and not less

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

59

d&rk regions of the earth, in its facilities for acquir-
ing a number of the languages chiefly spoken in
those parts, and in the access afibrded to people
whose character, if brought under Christian influ-
ences, and whose geographical situation, would bet-
ter enable them to spread far and wide the knowledge
of- the true religion.

After my companions had relinquished the plan
of proceeding immediately up the country, we agreed
to take a house for the next seven months in Howrah,
across the Iloogley from Calcutta; and our plan
was to devote our attention to the character and
usages of the people, the best plans of missionary
labor amongst them, having at that city almost every
plan under our view, and particularly to the acquisi-
tion of the native language. As soon as the re([uisile
arrangements were made we procured a native
teacher, and commenced studying the language.
This must be the first and highest duty of the newly
arrived missionary. Without this knowledge he
will probably become discontented in his work, and
he assuredly cannot be useful in the highest degree.
It is a very unsatisfactory plan to depend on inter-
preters, and it is never adopted by missionaries in
India, unless for a short time while they are learning
the language themselves. This study must engage
the main labor indeed of every missionary, until lie
is able to speak the language with ease. And it
will be well for him if he have the advice and aid
of missionary associates, already acquainted with
the particular dialect which he undertakes to ac-

60

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

quire. For want of this aid, we met with consi-
derable embarrassment; our Calcutta missionary
friends speaking the Bengali, and not the up-country
dialects, and our Hindustani teaclier being able to
give us little more assistance than to teach us the
true pronunciation. In this study, however, almost
everything depends on one’s own efforts. And
while a close and patient attention should be given
to books, such as grammars, dictionaries, and ap-
proved authors, it is not less necessary to mingle
freely with the people, and thus aetjuire a practical
readiness of speech, and of hearing too, for the
natives utter their words very rapidly and almost
inarticulately. Study and practice must go hand in
hand. If a missionary would feel completely at
home as a ready Hindu speaker, he must spend much
of his time exclusively among the natives, while he
cannot become an accurate and thorough scholar
without long continued study of the best authors,
and without habits of composition in writing the
language. A mistake to which one is liable, and by
which we were hindered in our progress, is often that
of being too purely students. One of the mission-
aries now in India has presented this point graphi-
cally in a paragraph, which fully supports this sug-
gestion. “ Many appear to have commenced with the
idea that they must stick to their books, and attempt
little or nothing until they are masters of the lan-
guage. Perhaps they start out when they think
they can talk pretty well ; of course they are disap-
pointed, and somewhat discouraged by their failure.

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA,

61

They slip back into their study, and at once jump
to the resolution of the fool in the Greek fable, that
he would never venture into the water again until he
had learned to swim. Those who have acted on
the other principle have uniformly, 1 believe, be-
come the earliest and best preachers in the native
language,”

While we were thus employed, we did not neglect
to make ourselves acquainted with the plans of labor
adopted by the missionaries in Calcutta. We en-
joyed capital opportunities of profiting by their expe-
rience, and as the result of our inquiries, 1 insert an
extract from our letter to the Secretary of the Society,
the llev. E. P. Swift, D.D., under date of April 24th,
1834. The views given below have been supported
by later and longer experience.

“ Perhaps the direct efforts of missionaries may be
reduced to three classes ; Preaching the Gospel to
many or few, as opportunity occurs, and in what-
ever way circumstances permit ; Preparation of
Books, including especially the translation of the
Sacred Scriptures and the distribution of them ; and
the Establishment and Superintendence of Schools,
A single missionary may engage more or less in all
these ways of doing good, if he have the requisite
talents, health, and grace ; but probably his labors
would, in ordinary circumstances, be more efficient,
if devoted chiefly to one of these departments. All
these modes are open to our choice. As to the first,
we have been able to hear of only one missionary

62

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

that has ever gone among the Sikhs, or into th'e
Protected Sikh States ; and he went only on a short
tour,. and was not acquainted with the language
principally spoken. In regard to the second, the
only books in the Panjabi dialect are a translation
of some parts of the Bible, and a small grammar of
the language, both said to be very defective ; at least*,
we have not yet heard of any other books, such as a
Missionary Society would prepare, nor indeed of any
kind. And as to schools, we believe there is not,
and never has been one, under European or Chris-
tian direction, among the Sikhs. There is one at
Sabathu among the Hill people, not under missionary
direction, nor of high order, which succeeds well.
The native schools throughout the country are of no
value in any point of view, except as to the mere
rudiments of reading and writing ; and even these
are taught to very few.

“ We have, therefore. Dear Brother, the entire
field before us, unoccupied, unattempted. It is in-
deed an inspiring thought, that our Society has the
prospect of beginning all that shall yet be done in
communicating the blessings of science and religion
to millions. May the Lord still prepare the way
and prosper the efforts you make !

“ It has been a matter of anxious thought what
should be the system of education to which we should
give the preference. As to preaching, and in respect
to books, it is but little we can do until we have

learned the language But to superintend a

native school, we mean one taught by native teachers,

fiVfiNtS At CALCUTTA.

63

and in the native language, a slighter acquaintance
with the language is required, than is necessary in
preaching* In leaching an English school, the mis-
sionary might begin almost immediately after his
location. Some diversity of sentiment exists as to
the prominence which should be given to education

.iji English Our great object should be to train

up, by God’s blessing and grace, a race of native
preachers. To the former object, though to a cer*
tain extent it should, and we hope will, receive our
attention, our number is quite inadequate. It must,
indeed, be manifest, that the Church cannot send
forth a sufficient number of missionaries to educate
the entire population in a proper manner. The men
suitable in qualifications and circumstances are not
to be had. Moreover, it would be at a vast expense
of money, of time, ana of life, that such a plan could
be carried into execution. But all concur, that the
best method is to train up native preachers, by send-
ing forth a sufficient number of persons to conduct
the system by which they are to be educated.

“ Persuaded that your.self and the Committee will
fully accord with these view.s, though so imperfectly
presented, we proceed to mention directly, but briefly,
the considerations which induce us to think, that
English education should be made prominent. Here
it will be recollected, that our chief object in education
is to prepare native ministers, who should be pos.sessed
of all the knowledge necessary to understand, exjdain,
and enforce the meaning of the Sacred Volume.
Any other kind of ministers would be of little ser*

4 *

64

EVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

vice. But this knowledge does not exist in they'
language. Shall we then endeavor to translate all
the store of English Theology into Panjabi ; or shall
we educate young men in the English language, and
spread before them the vast treasures of our Biblical,
Systematic, and Practical Works ? The former plan
is much the most expensive of the two, and mucji
the least practicable. All the missionaries in India
could not accomplish the former, though aided by
the funds of all the existing Missionary Societies.
The latter plan is simple, and, with the Divine bless-
ing, may be carried into effect by a few individuals.
It is indeed only applying to a heathen land the
principles recognised by our beloved Church concern-
ing our ministers, though with greatly increased
force of application in a heathen laud. English will
become to this country, what the Latin was to our
forefathers — the learned language of the peo[>le.
And it is worthy of special notice by every observer
of Providence in this land, that just at the time when
many natives are wishing to acquire a knowledge of
the English language, the Sanscrit, Arfibic, and Per-
sian, as if by common consent, are beginning to be
laid on the shelf. The former contains all that is
good, though with much that is bad ; the latter con-
tain almost unmixed evil. So far as there is any
experience on this subject, it decidedly confirms this
statement. We may further mention, concerning
this matter, that, in addition to its being the only way
of preparing suitable ministers, this kind of effort does
not prevent the missionary from preaching, or pre-

events at CALCUTTA.

65

.paring books, according to the measure of his time
and talents ; while it seems peculiarly recommended
to our notice in this land, where Europeans and
Americans cannot engage in preaching the Gospel,
or perhaps in any kind of duty, but at considerable
hazard, exposure, and brevity of life. It is hardly
necessary to explain, that we do not entertain the
sentiments expressed above, to the exclusion of
wishes and purposes for both common and female
education ; but we think it expedient to present them
thus at length, because it is probable this will be our
first kind of labor, as we can commence soon after we
reach the scene of operation. We think we shall
possess encouraging prospects as to both the other
kinds of instruction.'*

During the latter part of the cold season, Mr. Reed
was subject at times to a slight cough, though, as his
general health was good, it gave us but little alarm.
After some weeks, however, it assumed such a marked
character as to awaken our serious concern, and
medical advice was obtained, which, though not of
a decided kind, by no means removed our fears. In
the course of a few weeks longer, it became evident
that his disease was consumption. No means was
left untried to avert the disease, but it was all
in vain ; his strength gradually declined, and at length
all hope of a final recovery was abandoned. Mr.
Reed himself was of the opinion that his illness
might prove a very protracted one ; some of his rela-
tions had suffered under the same complaint for years,

EVENTS Al* CALCUTTA^

enjoying during much of the time such a degree of
strength as fitted them for attending to their usual
business. And his medical attendant encouraged
this view of his case, which seemed the more pro-
bable, as but one lobe of the lungs was supposed to
be affected. Still his weakness was so great as to
unfit him for usefulness in a new mission, wher.e
everything was to be established ; and the expense
of living was much greater than it would be amongst
his friends ; while the degree of comfort, bodily and
mental, was far less. After much consideration, and
many fervent prayers for direction from on high, we
were satisfied that it was advisable for him to return
home. This was an exceedingly trying decision to
himself, and not less so to his excellent wife. But
they considered that this seemed to be the Lord’s
will, and under the same principles, and I believe
with a greater sacrifice of feeling than they had
made on leaving the United States, they now pre-
pared for tlieir voyage homeward. Our house in
Howrah was given up, and Mr. and Mrs. Pearce
again kindly received our afflicted friends as their
guests. Passages were taken for them in the ship
Edward, for Philadelphia ; a few more weeks soon
passed away, and on the 23d of July they went on
board. The ship had been delayed in her departure,
and during the last week or two, Mr. Reed seemed
to become feebler every day, so that we were inclined
to doubt about his attempting so long a voyage. His
kind medical adviser, however, still recommended
the change, and all the arrangements having been

ilyfiNtS At dALCUttA.

67

CQUipleted, they did not deem it expedient to remain.
Thus was our little company a second time visited
with most severe dispensations. The general pros-^
pects of our mission continued to be favorable, but
what with bereavement, the loss of rny companions,
and my own health far from good, the long and soli-
dary journey to Lodiana appeared to me exceedingly
disheartening. My own discouragements, however,
were light when compared with my beloved mis-
sionary brother's mournful lot. His hopes were all
disappointed, his plans all set aside, his fervent desire
of usefulness to those poor heathens not granted — ■
I do not say, not accepted nor rewarded- For Hc^
whose eye saw his servant's purpose to assist in
building the spiritual temple, would in his case, as in
that of David, accept the desire and vouchsafe a
gracious reward. It is not what our hands perform
that chiefly receives his favor, but what our hearts,
influenced by his grace, devise and desire to accom-
plish. And if this dispensation aj)peared as dark as
it was severe to us all, yet we were assured that
what we knew not then we should know hereafter,
and that we should yet praise God for all Ijis dispen-
sations towards ourselves and towards his cause.
Thus in faith we parted, no more to meet on earth,
but with a firm hope of meeting in a better world.

Nearly a year afterwards I heard of the death of
Mr. Reed, on the 12th of August, about three weeks
after leaving Calcutta. He continued to enjoy a
calm and steady peace until the last, and then
resigned his spirit into his Saviour’s arms. He was

66

fiVENTS AT CALCUTTA.

a man of respectable talents, great perseveranpe,
and excellent judgment These traits, united with
the perfect sincerity of his Christian character, and
the entire devotion of all his powers and aims to his
Lord's service, would have made him a most valuable
minister of the gospel either at home or abroad, and
seemed to fit him for eminent service in the mission-
ary field. But the Master whom he served had work
for him in a higher sphere of duty and enjoyment.

lOUftNEV TO LODIANA.

CO

CHAPTER VI.

JOURNEY TO LODIANA.

Native boats — Serampore — Dangers of'* tracking”— ^Numerous lowiis
— 13oat wrecked — Derliamporc — Moorshedabad.

While my missionary companions were preparing
for their voyage by sea, I had been getting ready for
a hardly less tedious voyage up the Ganges ; and
shortly after our parting on the Edward, I went on
board a native boat. While they were going down
the river, oppressed, I doubt not, with deejily sor-
rowful feelings, I was slowly making my way up the;
same river with no other companions than natives,
and with a journey of twelve hundred miles before
me, amongst a strange and heathen people. Under
these circumstances, and at other times, I was made
to feel that the trials of missionary life are often
chiefly those of the mind. It is not the privation of
the comforts of home, nor the outward hardships of
his lot in his new sphere of life, but it is mainly the
separation from friends, the loss of social and Chris-
tian privileges, the thoughts and longings of the mind
for what must be foregone ; the thousand v isions of
the imagination, by day and by night, of what is far

iOU&NfiV 1*0 LODtANA :

distant and never again to be seen — it is chiefly these
things that are trying to bear. But trials can be
supported with cheerfulness, if we are in the path of
duty. I could not look in any direction without
seeing multitudes of people “ without God, and with-
out hope in the world,*^ through our Lord and Savi-
our, .Tesus Christ. I could not receive the Sacred
Scriptures as the guide of my own faith, and the
tneans of my own hope of eternal life, without at the
same time believing a knowledge of them to be equally
necessary to the dark-minded people around me ;
nor could I doubt the solemn obligation resting on all
Christians, to use all proper means for making known
the glad tidings of salvation to every creature.
Here then was a work to be done, of the most sacred
character, by which the weightiest interests of the
souls of men would be affected ; and if the Saviour’s
spirit, not less than his command, but moved me to
take part in that work, surely I could not doubt that
all temporal and earthly sacrifices should readily be
made, in order to fidelity and success in so holy a
calling. These were the circumstances, of all
others, in which a minister of the Gospel might
humbly hope for the fulfilment of our Lord’s promise,
" Lo, I am with you always.” — I could not hesitate,
therefore, to go forward.

There are three modes of travelling in India : by
the rivers in boats, or on land with tents, or in
palankeens. Before the introduction of steamers,
which are but partially used, however, on the India
rivers, the only inode of expeditious travelling was in

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

71

a palankeen, carried by men, having relays stationed,
by a previous arrangement, at certain stages, usually
about ten miles apart. If the traveller takes his rest
ill his palankeen, and proceeds by night as well as by
day, he may make about one hundred miles in the
tw^enty-four hours. It is a very irksome way of tra-
velling, and if he have much luggage, which he
wishes to keep under his eye, this mode cannot be
chosen. Travelling with tents, during the cold sea-
son, is a pleasant way of making a journey, though
a tedious one. From ten to fifteen miles a day is the
usual distance of each stage. I determined to pro-
ceed by the river in the kind of boat eommonly taken
by European travellers, called a budgerow ; and at
the recommendation of others, I procured a smaller
boat to accompany the budgerow, chiefly as a freight
boat, but to serve also as the kitchen of our party.
This smaller boat jiroved unnecessary and inconve-
nient, while it added to the expense. These boats
are of a half round bottom, without a keel, rather
wide towards the stern, and Uipering to a point in
front. They have a cabin over the after-[)art, with
a flat roof, on which the boatmen sleep at night, and
work the boat much of the time by day, particularly
in poling or sailing. A single mast stands nearly in
the centre of the boat, just forward of the cabin;
and oars arc fastened to the long narrowing deck
before the mast, but are seldom used. They carry
no ballast, and the lading is so placed as to he above
the water-line ; being thus top-heavy, there is con-
stant-danger pf being overturned.

72

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

These remarks will aid the reader in understand-
ing some accounts of this river journey, which were
made after reaching its end, from rough notes taken
down on the way.

July 25, 1834. — Having engaged a twelve-oared
budgerow, and another native boat for the servants
to cook on, and for part of the luggage, I had expected
to start early this morning on the journey to Lodiana.
Bishop lleber speaks of two hours' squabbling" with
the boat people, when he was setting out on his tour
of visitation. I found some trouble both with the
budgerow people and the freight or cook-boatmen.
The former refused to prepare their meals on the
boat, insisting on being permitted to cook on the
budgerow — which, from the nature of the ingredi-
ents used by them, and from the smoke, would have
been very disagreeable. After they found tiiat this
point could not be gained, which, however, they did
not yield until the matter was carried before the
agents from whom I had hired the boats, then the
people of the other boat set up a great jabbering
about the place in their boat which should be assigned
to the budgerow people for cooking. The ostensible
ground of the difficulty in both cases was the fear of
losing caste ; which was merely a pretext, the true
reason being a regard to their own convenience.
The evils of caste in this country are visible in a
thousand forms. Here is an example. Each caste
must cook by itself and eat by itself. We have now
three places for cooking on the freight boat ; one for
me, at which also the servants cook ; and one each

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

73

for the crews of the two boats. One thing was ob-
vious in these disputes, that mild firmness in our in-
tercourse with these poor natives is quite im})ortant.
I believe they entertain more respect for me now,
than if I had yielded to all their demands. We
started with the tide ; but made no progress, as the
wind was strongly against us, and were obliged to
“ come to,” after two or three hours of hard work.

July 20. — We started again with the tide about
three P. M., but did not make much progress, moor-
ing a few miles above Chitpur — five or six miles’ dis-
tance. The boatmen seem a strong, active set of
young men ; and are thus far disposed to be very
obliging. But they are very ready to take every
opportunity of imposing on the ignorance or weak-
ness of the “ Sahib.” Two incidents of this kind
occurred to-day. In the afternoon, the Manjhi or
headman, came with great respect to ask for twenty
rupees, to be repaid at Cawnpore. He knew very
well that his wages were to be paid by the agents,
not by me, and therefore wished me to lend Iiim the
money. But I happened to know, that if he got
possession of any sum, however small, I should have
much trouble, and little hope of getting it back
again ; and so declined granting his request. Soon
after, one of the men came to beg a rupee, telling me
that it was dusturi, customary. Again I haj)pened
to know better. It is recommended to make tliern
occasionally a present of a basket of fish, which
gratifies them more than the money paid for the fish.

Jlily 27.— ;We started early, hoping to reach Se-

74

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

rampore by sun-rise. Serampore is a small Danteh
settlement, about fifteen .miles above Calcutta, on the
opposite side of the Hoogley. It has more of a
European appearance than most towns in India, and
stretches nearly a mile along the river’s bank, but is
of no great breadth. Everything now wears the
aspect of decay ; though formerly it was a platfe of
considerable importance.

The Serampore Baptists are known among all the
churches, as the earliest missionaries to this part of
India, and as formerly extensively engaged in trans-
lating and publishing the Scriptures. It is any-
thing but agreeable to have to add, that the operations
of this Society seem to be on the decline, as well as
the town in which its head^quarters are established.
It is ascribed partly to the want of funds. At Se-
rampore there are three European ministers, includ-
ing Dr. Marshman ; and there are some other Euro-
peans connected with the press. The former are
occupied partly with a kind of College, to prepare
young men for the missionary service. There is a
fine college edifice, and a good collection of books ;
but not many students. A number of the mission-
aries employed by this Society received theirinstruc-
tion here. If I have been correctly informed, the
greater part of the Serampore missionaries, at the
subordinate stations, are East-Indians ; good men,
and, from their intimate knowledge of the native
language, and their ability to endure the heat of the
climate, well adapted for usefulness. I saw but two
of these missionaries, who appeared to be excellent

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

75

men. Their usefulness, however, would be greatly
promoted by their spending some time in a Christian
country, such as England or the United States, while
pursuing their studies. It is difficult for those who
have been born and brought up in a heathen coun-
try, even though under the best auspices, to form
those clear and enlarged conceptions of the nature
and advantages of Christianity, and of civilization
in general, which a residence in a Christian land
would almost certainly afford opportunities of form-
ing. I do not mean to say, that some of the mission-
aries of this class are not equal or superior to some
European missionaries ; but only that the former
would be much benefited by enjoying the advan-
tages of the latter. One of the Church Society’s mis-
sionaries is an East-Indian, who had the advantages
of a residence for some time in England ; and he is
now regarded as one of the most efficient mission-
aries in the Presidency. The Serampore mission-
aries have English services on the Sabbath, at two
or three European stations not many miles distant ;
and they have also the superintendence and direction
of the various branches of the Serampore mission.
Dr. Marshrnan is now an aged man. He is almost
the only aged missionary I know, and stands like a
venerable oak in the forest.

On the opposite side of the river is Barrackpore,
a large Military Village, where the native soldiers
(called Sepoys, from the word Sipahi — a soldier)
attached to the Presidency-Division of the army,
have Jtheir qujirters. Sepoys form much the great-

76

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

est part of the British army in India. They are
always commanded by English officers, and make
exjcellent soldiers. At. Barrackpore, the Governor-
General has a country residence. There is a small
church also, and a chaplain.

July 28 . — We started again in the clear moonlight
about three o'clock A. M., and in the early part of
the afternoon reached Chinsurah, twenty-two miles
by water. The boatmen “ tracked" a good part of
the way, that is, six or seven men went on shore,
and, pulling with a long rope, drew the boat along at
the rate of about two miles an hour. It is hard
work ; as the poor fellows have to cross nullahs, or
arms of the river, frequently so deep as to require
them to swim, and to walk often knee-deep in mud,
all the time exposed to a hot sun. They relieve
each other every hour by twos; that is, two of the
men from on board the boat take the place of two
who have been longest on shore. To keep their
rope from Vjecoming entangled by the bushes, and
from dragging heavily through the water, they make
it fast, about fifteen feet above the deck, to the mast.
As a considerable part of the vessel in the water is
before the mast to which the rope is attached, and as
the rudder is too small to be of much use, when the
current happens to be very strong, there is great
danger that the prow will be forced to one side or
to the other : and then there is still greater danger
that the boat will be pulled by the men at the rope
on its beam-ends," as the sailors say, on its side,
and go down to the bottom. I describe the pracess

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

77

minutely ; for my most frequent dangers, and some
of the greatest, were from this source. In many
places, the current dashes along with immense force
at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour. The
“ trackers/’ bent almost to the ground, strain every
muscle to pull the boat. The prow suddenly veers
from the right direction ; the boat is already half on
its side ; all on board sing out as loudly as possible
to the men on shore to slacken the ro}>e ; and, if
they hear in time, all mjiy be well enough ; but if
not, the danger is very imminent that everything
will be lost, except the lives of the reckless boat-
people, who seem to be an almost amphibious race.
It would be no easy matter to drown one of them.
When the wind is not favorable, “ tracking” is the
common mode of getting along ; as they hardly ever
make use of their long awkward oars. Of course,
it is a very tedious mode of travelling. When the
wind is favorable, they spread sail, contriving to
fasten two or three sails, one above another, to the
single mast in the centre of the boat. * A strong wind
will carry the boat against the current from twenty
to thirty miles a day ; the distance varying as the
channel may accord with the direction of the wind.
From June to October, the wind usufdly blows from
the south-east, though not without intervals of con-
trary winds, or of no wind at all. From October to
March, the wind is from the north-west.

A few miles above Serampore is Chandernagore,
a French settlement. The town is not very large,
and .is not prosperous ; though formerly it was a

78

JOUENEY TO LODIANA.

place of some importance. The tri-colored flag was
flying, and guns were fired every half hour, the day
I passed — I suppose in- commemoration of the three
days’ revolution” in 1830. Chinsurah was originally
a Dutch settlement. It is not a place of much com-
merce now. The situation of these three foreign
settlements — Serampore, Chandernagore, and Ghin-
surah — until recently, in the midst of the British
territory, is rather singular. They are regarded by
the English authorities. I believe, as islands, and the
same general policy is pursued towards them that
would be pursued towards Danish, French, and
Dutch Islands in the ocean. Each place has its own
Governor appointed by its respective king. But
since Calcutta has engrossed the commerce of this
part of India, the duties of these Governors are
chiefly to administer the local government of their
respective towns, a very insignificant sphere of
operation. At Chinsurah there is one missionary
under the London Missionary Society, who has the
charge of several schools.

July 20. — We started about five o’clock, and after
toiling hard for twelve hours, most of the time at
the rope, the men moored at a small village of fif-
teen or twenty cottages. This village is in the
midst of the jungle, or waste, uncultivated land;
which is here covered chiefly with tall, rank grass.
The people are cowherds ; and not one of them can
read. By way of excuse, one of them told me they
were Bengalis, and there were no Bengali books.
He was probably ignorant enough not to know , any

VOVAtiK ON THE OANHEi^.

79

better. We made about twenty miles. The banks
of the river are becoming higher, and I even saw an
elevation like a very low hill. Cocoa-nut trees are
not numerous. Heretofore, the banks of the river,
when not cultivated, are covered with a very dense,
luxurious growth of underwood, among which the
cocoa-nut, raising its tall straight trunk without
limb or leaf, except the tuft of long leaves at the
top, forms a very prominent object.

I saw a few English-looking houses to-day, occu-
})ied by indigo-planters ; and passed one large church,
much like some of the churches in Madeira. It was
at Jiandcll, an old Portuguese town, where, it is said,
there is also a monastery. Hoogley is close by
Bandell, and is an ancient native town, where for-
merly the French, Dutch, Portuguese, and Danes,
had each a factory. In 1032, the first serious quar-
rels between the Moguls and Europeans occurred at
this town. The Portuguese lost sixty-four large
ships (in one of which were two thousand persons,
who, with all their property, were blown up), fifty
grabs, and nearly two hundred sloops. The river at
that time must have been more favorable for naviga-
tion than it is at present. Such a fleet could not
now come thus far up the river. The town of
Hoogley is still large and populous; and is prosper-
ous, being the seat of considerable native trade. It
is an important jdace for a missionary station,
especially if it could be occupied by a well educated
native missionary.

Jub/ 30.— We started at five, and at ten were not

80

JOUIINKY TO loulana:

more than fifteen minutes’ walk from the place
whence we set out, though we had made several
miles. The river makes, a remarkable bend at this
place. We stopped for the night at Culna, a large
and prosperous native town. The Church Mission-
ary Society support a Catechist at this place, who
has charge of a school ; but he was not at home.
By a large towm, J mean a town of several thou-
sand inhabitants. It is extremely difficult to form a
correct estimate of native population ; but Culna
probably contains ten or fifteen thousand inhabitants.
As usual, I took some tracts to distribute during my
walk on shore. It is, however, but a very small
proportion of these people who are able to read;
perhaps not one person out of fifty. I gave three
tracts this evening to different persons, who were
very willing to receive them. One of the men, a
Brahman, soon came to me for another tract, tellinji
me he had given the first one to his “ brother,” the
common phrase for friend.

July 31. — Our boats were moored this evening
just below the junction of the Bbagirathi and Jel-
linghi rivers— branches of the Ganges, which here
unite and form the Iloogley. 1 find here another
budgerow,and numerous native boats, all waiting for
a change of wind. On the opposite side of the
river is Nuddea, a native towm of some size, which
was formerly the seat of considerable Brahmanical
learning ; though, at present, few traces of it are
said to remain. The district of the same name, in
1802, contained, in a territory of about three .thou-

VOVAOK ON THU UANUES.

SI

sitnd square miles, upwards of eight hundred thou-
sand people. It is supposed the number is now
much greater. In the adjoining district of Burd-
wan, the population amounted to six hundred persons,
on the average, to a square mile.

Aus^ust 5. — For two or three days, including the
last date, the wind was quite unfavorable ; so that
we were obliged to lie to, without attempting to make
any progress. On Sunday the wind increased to a
violent gale, causing large waves on the river, which
is here deep and broad. We were unfortunately
moored to the Ice-shore ; so that the wind both
dashed the boats against the shore, and the waves
against the boats. It soon became evident that we
should have difficulty to save the boats from being
wrecked. In the other budgerow were a gentleman,
his wife, and their children. The lady becoming
alarmed, insisted on leaving the bo, at, and it was well
they did so, for it sank under the fury of the waves
in a few minutes after they left it. A number of
native vessels, and my freight boat, in which were
some large boxes of things, shared the same fate. I
had most of the valuable articles taken out ol’ the
budgerow, and with great difficulty it was just
saved ; but as the rain was pouring down in torrents,
and the wind was very high, the books were much
injured, the other articles also damaged more or less,
and I got, of course, after three hours’ hard work
in the rain, completely tired and wet.

An English family liappcned to reside in the

82

JOURNEY TO LODIANA .

neighborhood, who received us kindly, and provided
dry clothing, &c. — This was one of two special
circumstances, deserving sincere gratitude. The
prejudices of the natives prevent their receiving
foreigners into their houses, and there are very few
English families in this section of the country — not
one in every twenty miles. The exposure might
have proved injurious, if it had been necessary to
remain unsheltered, in wet clothes, during the dread-
ful stormy night which succeeded. The other cause
of thankfulness was that the gale did not come on
during the night, as in that case everything would
have been lost, and probably our lives also. The
gale was very general, and occasioned great loss of
property, and the loss of many lives. I hope to
recover the greater part of my pecuniary loss from
the Insurance Office.

Travelling on this river is, almost at every season
of the year, attended with danger. The boats, even
those for the accommodation of English people, as
budgerows and pinnaces, arc awkwardly built on a
more awkward model, at least tlie former ; the boat-
men are unskilful and reckless; during the rains,
though you have usually a fine wind, yet you must
stem a strong current; at other times you are in
danger from north-westers, &c. Every year many
boats are lost. I have heard of two budgerows being
entirely lost since I left, and I have several times
‘seen that it was the almost direct power of an Al-
mighty hand that saved mine from the same fate.

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

83

wJien rapid currents, contrary wind, miserably
managed sails, and inefficient boatmen, seemed almost
to make certain such a result.

August 0 and 7. — We arrived at Ciitwa on the
evening of the 0th, and were detained near that town
all the next day by contrary winds. Cutwa is a
natfvc town of some size, about seventy-five miles
direct distance from Calcutta. There is a Baptist
missionary here, Mr. Carey, a son of the late llev.
Dr. Carey. There is a school under the care of Mrs.
Carey, and a small church of native converts.

August 9. — We reached Berhampore in time to
spend tlie Sabbath among Christians — a great lu’ivi-
lege. This town consists of two parts, as do the
most of the towns where the English have stations ;
the one for European residents, the other for natives.
These two classes are seldom found dwelling together,
or in the same street. The reason is, that their
mode of living, kind of hou.ses, customs, &c., are so
widely dillerent, that each class finds it more conve-
nient to have quarters of its own. I mention this
circumstance, because I am inclined to think it has
some bearing on the usefulness of missionaries.
Dwelling usually in the .same parts of the station
with their countrymen, they are perhaps too much
identified with them ; and less opportunity is afforded
to the natives to profit by their example, silently
operating under continued observation. There is
probably, however, less truth in this remark at Ber-
hampore than at most stations, as the missionaries
reside ncauthe native part of the town. In general.

84

JOURNEY TO LODIANA !

also, it should be stated, that the missionaries hav;e
really little choice about the matter ; as it is seldom
practicable to obtain a house in the native part of
the town which would afford any accommodation for
an English family. Indeed, if it were practicable, it
might in mafiy cases be inexpedient, owing to the
danger of injury to health from the crowded, dirty,
narrow streets, which characterize most native
towns. Yet, where a house at all suitable and eli-
gible could be procured, the advantages of intercourse
and of example would l)c greater, and shoidd never
be overlooked. Berhampore is a military station,
where, in addition to a regiment of Sepoys, there is
a regiment of European soldiers, probably eight
hundred or one thousand men.

The London Missionary Society has two mission-
aries at this place; who find employment in tin;
native town, which is not very large, and in tours
through the towns and villages in the country around.
They have two or three schools, partly under the care
of their wives, for teaching the elementary branches
of the native language ; and there is a small orphan
asylum. One of the missionaries has an English
service, on Sabbath evening, in a neat chapel. There
are no native converts at present, or at most but
two or three. This mission was commenced about
ten or twelve years ago. — On Sabbath, I went with
the Uev. Mr. Hill into the bazar, whither he usually
goes every day to make known the Gospel. A bazar
corresponds to the streets of our cities and towns
occupied by stores and shops. The part of the

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

85

building next to the street is a kind of open shop, in
which various commodities, commonly of but little
aggregate value, are exposed to sale. During busi-
ness hours, the bazars-are generally full of people,
buying and selling. Mr. Hill took his station at one
side of one of the principal streets, under the shade
of a- house ; and, addressing a native who seemed to
have little to do, he began to read a tract aloud.
Seeing a Sahib” thus employed, numbers of those
who were passing to and fro, stopped to listen,
until we were surrounded by forty or fifty people —
men, women of the lower classes, and boys. Some
stopj)ed for a few minutes, and then pursued their
way. Others stayed longer, and some continued all
the time. Some seemed to listen from curiosity;
some with seriousness ; all respectfully. After read-
ing a few pages, Mr. Hill made a short address, to
which occasionally some gave assent ; and then he
distributed a small bundle of tracts, which all seemed
very eager to obtain. Several were disappointed.
The scene was one of much interest to me.

August 12. — After receiving much kindness from
the missionary brethren and other Christian friends,
I started from Berhampore and reached Moorsheda-
bad. This city was formerly the capital of Bengal ;
and is still a very large place, stretching five or six
miles along the east shore of the river. It is, how-
ever, greatly on the decline. Multitudes of the mud
hovels are going to ruin, a process which in this cli-
mate is very rapid, where the materials are so
perishable.. There are few good buildings in Moor-

86

JOURNEY TO LOUIANA :

shedabad, and scarcely any now building. A very
extensive palace, which is now building for the na-
bob, is* almost the only new public edifice I saw.
There are a number of temples and mos(iues ; but
they wear the aspect of neglect and decay. Tiie
nabob of Bengal, who resides here, receives a large
pension from the Company, instead of the sovereignty
to which, under native rule, ho would have been
heir. He is said to be a young man of exceedingly
dissipated habits ; so that his influence amongst his
countrymen is very injurious. He takes little inte-
rest in political matters, and is anxious apparently
to live only a luxurious, sensual life.

Moorshedabad is the seat of considerable native
trade ; and, in this neighborhood, it is said a greater
amount of silk is woven into diflerent fabrics than at
any other place. It is also the head-cpiartcrs of a
circuit court ; but the magistrates reside at Berliarn-
pore, nine miles below. The London Missionary
Society has recently sent a Catechist to this place ;
but no particular results are yet manifest from his
efforts. The missionaries at Berhampore occasion-
ally visit it. It seems to require much greater atten-
tion from the Christian world than it has yet received.
But this is too true of many cities in India. A large
proportion of the people of this place are Mussulmans.

August 16 . — Our progress has been very slow,
owing to light winds, which afforded little aid in
stemming the rapid current of the river. While
slowly toiling along this afternoon, two of the nabob’s
pleasure boats passed us. They are of a singular

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

87

structure, very long, very narrow, built almost on
the model of a large Indian canoe ; but with very
high prow and stern, which were richly ornamented.
A highly finished awning was spread over the middle
of the boats, afibrding a screen for two or three per-
sons from the sun. The rest of the boats, fore and
aft, was occui)ied by rowers, to the number of thirty
or forty to each boat. These rowers ke])t admirable
time ; as they lifted their paddles out of the water,
quickly performed a circuit with them through the
air, raising them above their heads, and then all at
the same moment striking them into the water again ;
thus proi)elling the boat seven or eight miles an hour
against the current. They formed a great contrast
to the awkward budgerow, slowly moving along the
shore.

To-day I passed Jungipore, the greatest silk station
of the East India Company. Hamilton remarks,
that “ the buildings were erected here in 1773, and
in 1803 about three hundred thousand persons were
employed. They use tlie Italian method of spinning.
The mulberry tree is the oriental ; it is dwarfish,
and the leaves but indifierent ; to which is attributed
a degeneracy in the breeds that have been introdued
from foreign countries.''

August 17, Lord's Day , — We lay to, at a native
village, a short distance above Jungipore. A num-
ber of people, hearing that there was a ** Padre
Sahib" who gave away tracts, came to ask for them ;
and one was given probably to nearly every person
.in the totvn who was able to read. A Brahman set

5

88

JOUUNKV TO LOIHANA 1

tlio ex{inii)lo, though :it first evidently at the expensef
of some struggles between his pride and his curiosity ;
but afterwards fie brought olhers of the same caste,
ft is a cause of thankfulness that they are willing to
receive and to read our religious books. Some very
pleasing boys interested me much. They belonged
to families of the higher classes ; had fine, animated,
intelligent countenances ; and were much gratified
by a tract to each one ; which they read with great
fluency, and which they forthwith ran to show to
their jiarents. They reminded me of some of my
former Sunday School scholars. Would that these
heathen boys were as highly favored !

From this place there is a distant view of the llaj •
mahal Hills, the sight of which was very grateful to
the eye, wearied witli the sameness of the dead level
ct)untry of Bengal. From this village our next day’s
sail was over what Bishop Ileber would call “a
miserable drowned country.” Frequently nothing
was to be seen in any direction but water, with the
exception of an occasional village or slightly elevated
ground, and perhaps the tops of a few straggling
trees. In such places the current is very slow ; as
its force is lost in the dispersion of the overflowing
waters. The water of the Ganges, and of course, of
all its outlets, is extremely muddy. The clayey
sediment held in solution during the rainy season is
very large. Much of this sediment is deposited on
the land which is overflowed, and forms a very rich
manure. After the waters subside, and under a hot
sun, in this soil the extensive crops of rice and da!

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

89

luxuriate with great delight, at least to the owners.
We made fast, for the night, to a tree in the midst
of the waters, and found, the next morning, that the
river had subsided a little during the night.

90

JOURNEY TO LODIANA :

CHAPTER VII.

VOYAUE ON THE C3ANGES CONTINUED.

The great, (langcs — Raj-inaluil Hills — Mussulmans and Hiudiis coin-
pared — Anecdote of Caste — Danger from a gale — lUiagulporc —
Spirit of lying — Native boatmen — Monghir — Patna — Dinaporc.

Auffust 19. — After passing through a narrow chan-
nel, with lofty trees on each shore, and then for a few
miles through an open country, we entered on the
Burra Gunga of the natives, the main branch of the
Ganges. The river is here, at this season of the
year, from three to four miles wide, and presents
truly a grand api)earance. The idea of irresistible
power is strongly impressed on the mind of the
observer. The mighty river rolls along in majesty,
rapidly, but trancjuilly, as if regardjess of all the
world besides. It is one of God's greatest works;
and the innumerable native boats, which are seen
sailing close by the shore, render the contrast be-
tween his works and the works of man very striking.

The latter are little, feeble, and apparently in con-
stant dread of the overwhelming power of the river
in whose waters they venture to sail. Our boatmen
seemed to feel themselves in the presence of one of
the Gods of their countrymen ; but being Mussnl-

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

91

mans, they only poured out some water on the prow
of the boat, and then repeated with double energy
their usual prayer to “ Allah, ’la, ’la ’la-h.” I do not
wonder that the ignorant mind of the heathen should
become superstitious on beholding this vast body of
waters.

This may be a proper place to introduce some
notices of a river wliosc sacrediiess is so great in
India, and whose fame is so widely spread through
other lands. I take them chiefly from Hamilton.
The course of the Ganges is on the southern side of
the great Himalaya range of mountains. It has been
traced to a short distance above the jflace of Hindu
pilgrimage, Gangoutri. Two miles above this place
is the Cow’s Mouth,” about which the natives have
various fables. It is merely a large stone in the
middle of the river, of which a part projects above
the water ; and with the aid of a lively fancy, may
be supposed to resemble the mouth of that sacred
animal. The pilgrimage of Gangoutri is considered
a great exertion of Hindu devotion ; and is supposed
to redeem the performer from troubles in this world,
and to insure a happy transit through all the trans-
migrations that await him hereafter. After issuing
from the mountains near Hurd war, Lat. 29^ 57',
Long. 78^^ 2' East, to the conflux with the Jumna at
Allahabad, the first large river that joins it, the bed
of the Ganges is generally from a mile to one and a
quarter wide. From hence its course becomes more
winding, until after receiving the Gogra, the Soane,

92

JOURNEY TO LOUIANA:

and other smaller streams, its channel attains its •full
width, which in some parts is three miles across.
When at the lowest, it is commonly about three
fourths of a mile in width. During the rains, the
width is of course greatly increased ; as the Ganges
rises about thirty-two feet, and the banks are low»
and the country level for a great part of its course ;
so that the waters spread widely. The Ganges ap-
pears to owe its increase more to the melting of the
snow and the rains on the mountains, than to the
rains which fall on the plains; for it rises fifteen
feet out of thirty-two by the latter end of June, and
the rainy season does not fully begin in the most of
the level countries until about that time.

About two hundred miles from the sea the Delta
commences. The two most western branches, the
Cossimbazar, or Bhagirathi, and Jellinghi rivers,
unite and form the Hoogley, the only branch of the
Ganges generally navigated by ships. That part of
the Delta bordering on the sea is composed of a
labyrinth of rivers and creeks, named the Sunder-
bunds, which, including the rivers that bound it, give
an expansion of two hundred miles to the branches
of the Ganges at its junction with the sea. Its
whole length is fifteen hundred miles in a direct line ;
its actual length is much greater. By the latter end
of July, all the lower parts of Bengal contiguous to
the Ganges and Brahmaputra are overflowed, and
form an inundation of more than one hundred miles
in width, nothing appearing but villages and trees.
At five hundred miles from the sea the channel is

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

03

thirty-nine feet deep when the river is at the lowest ;
which depth continues nearly to the sea but the
outlet of the main branch is obstructed by sand-bars
In the dry season, the mean rate of motion of the
current is less than three miles an hour ; in the wet
season, five or six ; and, at some places, seven or
eight. * Taking the medium of the whole year, the
([uantity of the water discharged is nearly one hun-
dred and eighty thousand feet per second of time.

It is only that part of the river which lies in a
line" between Gangoutri, where its feeble stream
issues from the Himalaya snows, to Saugor Island
below Calcutta, that is particularly sacred in the
eyes of the Hindu, The Hoogley river, therefore,
of Europeans is considered the true Ganges. Par-
ticular places are esteemed more eminently holy
than the rest ; and to these pilgrims resort from a
distance, to perform their ablutions, and to obtain
the water that is used in their ceremonies. The
chief of these are the five Prayags, or holy junctions
of rivers, of which Allahabad is the principal, and by
way of distinction is named Prayag, Including
these Prayags, there are nine especially holy places
on this river.

Having a moderate wind, the boat-people were
anxious to go on until a later hour than usual, there
being moonlight, though obscured by passing clouds.
Accordingly, we sailed along the edge of the river
until after eight o’clock. The country seemed to be
extensively covered with water ; and where the

94

JOURNEY TO LODIANA :

land was visible, it was so saturated with the fains
that had fallen as to afford no firni ground for mak-
ing- the boat fast for the night — w'hich is done by
means of ropes attached to several stakes driven into
the ground. At last, the men moored the boat at a
place which they thought suitable. About mid-
night, I heard them making a great noise ; and on
going out, found that the fastenings were giving way,
while the wind had become very high, and a densely
black cloud was threatening a furious gale. No
time was to be lost ; and, with all hands hard at
work, we got the boat moved a short distance and
made fast at another place. If the giving way of
the moorings had not been discovered in time, there
would have been little hope of being saved. As it
was, the danger was very great.

August 20. — We approached Raj-mahal, The
range of hills which bear this name have been in
sight for two or three days. They resemble some of
the parallel ranges of the Alleghany Mountains, and
their appearance is very beautiful. Their general
direction is southward from this place, though inclin-
ing a good defil to the east. Their range above the
town of Raj-mahal is quite to the westward of
north. The river washes their base from a consider-
able distance above to this town ; but soon afterwards
its waters, as if wearied with the fruitless effort to
remove these mountains, roll away in an easterly
direction.

Those hills are inlmbited by a distinct race of peo-
ple, called Paharis, which simply means hill-people.

VOYA(ii: ON TIIK (JANOEfcS.

05

They are supposed by many to he the ahoriirinal
inhabitants. They have no idols, and pay a much
greater regard to truth than the lliiuliis. Their
mode of life is less refined ; their langunge is diller-
ent, and has not been reduced to writing. A Baj)-
tist missionary iVom Munghir has made one or two
excursions among them ; and speaks favorably of
their candor and willingness to listen to his discourses
concerniiiG: the true religion. 1'heir number cannot
be very great, llaj-mahal was formerly the resi-
dence of royalty, and some old palaces still remain,
but in a state of great decay. The present town
contains perhaps a few thousand iidialiilanls. 1'he
people begin to wear an appearance less elleminale
than that which characterizes the Bengalis.

Avgust 21. — We passed Sidy Gully and Pir Ponti
— both of them places to which the attention of the
traveller on this river is directed as possessing
novelty, no small recommemlation where everything
is marked by sameness. The former was once a
celebrated jiass, commanding the entrance iVom
Bahar into Bengal. It commands a fine view of the
hills and of the river. Pi'r Ponti is the name given
to a detached liill, on .account of a Mussulman saint.
Father or St. INinti, who was buried there. There
is also a small but rather neat Hindu t(*mple to Maha
Dev, .about half way up the hill, which is conspicu-
ous and pleasing in its apjiearance. It stands on
a little knoll jutting out from the hill, while on (aicli
sicle, below and above, the deep green of the dense

DO JOURNEY TO lodiana:

woods contrasts strongly with the white waliji of
the temple.

It is very common, esjiecially in towns of some
size, to .stiC the holy places of Hindus and Mussul-
mans thus immediately in contact. You see a tem-
ple at one corner, and a mos(|ue at the next. But,
in the smaller towns, it is more common to find-each
class distinct; either all Mussulmans or all Hindus.
The average proportion of Hindus who are fol-
lowers of Mohammed to those who are pagans, is
said to be about one to ten. 1’he further to the
northwest vve go, the larger <loes the proportion of
Mussulmans become, la the “Upper Provinces,”
as they are tmaned, as Oude, Allahabad, Agra, Delhi,
&c., I understand that the more wealthy and intel-
ligent inhabitants are g(*nerally Mussulmans. In the
Western, or Ilajpul Provinces, Hinduism is said
greatly to predominate. This is easily to be
accountc<l J’or ; as those regions were never so
entirely subject to the rule of the Patau and Mogul,
conquerors as were the Up|)er Provinces. The two
classes, in the Lower Provinces, resemble each other
in ignorance, in vice, and rigid adherence to caste.
They differ chiefly in their external mode of wor-
ship ; though among the great mass of the peojde,
their observances arc, in both cases, an unintelligible
round of ceremonies, alike unmeaning and useless.
The two best things in the Hindu religion seem to be
the ablutions, or rather bathings, and the prohibition
of most kinds of animal food, regulations which arc

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

97

cert£^inly useful in a hot climate like this, as they
secure a certain degree of cleanliness and of tem-
perance. These are both wanting in the Mussulman
system ; yet custom secures the former, and poverty
the latter. On the whole, I an) disposed to think
that there is not much difference between the two
systems in the Lower Provinces of the Bengal
Presidency, in their effects on the morals or the
minds of their votaries. Probably the Mussulman
part of the community have some advantages over
their neighbors in being permitted to keep fowls,
&c. Small as this item is, it is a matter of consi-
derable importance among a people so very poor, and
so very densely settled.

It is rather singular to see the Mussulmans so
tenacious of caste. My boat-people and servants are
all Mussulmans ; and yet I have to be as careful not
to pollute their food by touching it in any way as if
they were Hindus. A little terrier dog, given to me
by a lady at Berhampore, and which is quite a
favorite amongst the men, gave great offence one
afternoon. ' Having swum from the shore, when he
got on deck he very naturally shook off the water,
and a drop or two fell on the servants* chipatis, flat
cakes of bread, which they were just getting ready
for their dinner. Forthwith, a clamor was raised ;
the little dog scampered off to the cabin ; and the
poor cakes df bread were forthwith pitched over-
board by the men with much indignation.

The prevalence of caste among both pagan and
Mohammedan, Hindus serves to show that it is a

98

JOURNEY TO LODIANA *.

civil institution in some sense, though invented by
the Brahmans as an essential part of their religious
system. The Mussulmans doubtless retain in some
degree the religious character of their heathen coun-
trymen ; and the civil institutions and social obser-
vances, as well as the literature of the people of this
country, are all inseparably intervoven with' their
religion.

Leaving Pir Ponti, we sailed over a broad expanse
of water, in order to get to the other side ; for the
boatmen on this river seldom steer their boats in the
middle of the channel, but creep along close by the
shore. At the place where we crossed, the river is
l)robably three or four miles wide. While in the
middle of the channel, a gale sprang up suddenly,
and struck the boat on the foreside, coming partly in
the same course as the current. We were carried
obliquely down the current with fearful rapidity for
two or three miles, until all at once we were ** brought
to” by being dashed violently against the low shore.
The shock was so great that it was with difficulty 1
could keep on my feet ; while chairs, books, plates,
pitchers, glasses, were scattered over the cabin floor
in great confusion. I felt extremely grateful to the
kind Providence which preserved us. Often in such
sudden gales, boats founder at once, and all on board
perish.

The scenery on the south side of the river, in this
place, is very beautiful. A low range of irregular
hills stretches along for several miles, among which
the eye is delighted to see some pretty little brooks

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

99

hastening to pay their tribute to the great river.
How beautiful the Scripture language about “living
water/* that is, not standing pools, but running
streams, than which there is no more refreshing and
pleasing object in eastern countries. Their water is
fresh and pure, ever flowing, and free to all, the poor
and the rich ; while in the tanks or pools, and in the
cisterns or wells, the water is usually stagnant and
extremely dirty ; and frequently is accessible only to
a limited number. God is our fountain of “ living
water,** and Christ has promised his Holy Spirit to
be as “rivers of living water.** The allusion, we
may suppose, is to the flowing streams that watered
Palestine; the true meaning points to higher bless-
ings than earth can afford.

On the opposite side of the river, the country is as
flat and uninteresting as usual. Here, as elsewhere,
large herds of buftaloes are to be seen grazing, under
the care of a few poorly clad herdsmen. These
animals are all of a dark color, a good deal larger
than the common cow, with semicircular horns pro-
jecting backward along the neck, and not so crooked
as those of a ram, though resembling them in other
respects. The buflalocs in this country seem to take
as much pleasure in wallowing in a pond of mud
and water as the less honored swine. Frequently in
passing along, a person may see the noses and horns
of many hundreds of them sticking up out of the
water, in which they delight to remain during the
hot part of the day. They are used, as are cows, in
ploughing, harrowing, and carrying burdens. Their

100

JOURNKY TO LODI AN A I

milk also is much used, but it is deemed a coarser
fare than that of the cow.

August 22. — Above Bhagulpore, we left the main
body 'of water to the left, and passed several miles
up a channel that has been formed within a few years,
and which is much more direct. It is now a large
river, and will most probably become the higFiway
of the Ganges in a few years. Such changes are
constantly taking place. One of the greatest obsta-
cles to the navigation of this river by steamboats, is
the constant changing of the channel and the forma-
tion of new sand-bars, so that the most experienced
pilot hardly knows where to guide his vessel ; while
the muddy nature of the water renders useless any
effort to see his way.

Bhagulpore is an English civil station ; that is, it
is the residence of an English collector, judge, sur-
geon, and probably a few other officers, who collect
the revenue of the district, and administer justice.
Often the civil and military stations are at the same
place ; though frequently this is not the case. The
town is not large, but presents a pleasing appearance
at the distance of two or three miles ; it contains a
number of large houses, and the situation is rather
elevated.

August 23. — A trifling incident attracted my
notice, as affording an illustration of the spirit of
lying which pervades, according to all testimony, the
entire Hindu people. Our boat was moored to the
bank, with several others, and many men were busy
on the shore preparing their dinner. A fowl made its
escape from the coop on one of the boats, and taking

VOVAUE O.. THE CANliKS.

101

its flight in a little circle before the people, happened
to alight near an old grey-headed man, who was
cleaving wood. A boy ran after this stray chicken
to bring it back, when the old man ordered him off,
roundly asserting that the fowl was his, and had
escaped from his boat ; though he was a Hindu, to
whom it would have been worse than death to have
eaten the unclean bird, for which he was so willing
to tell a lie. The owner did not give up his right ;
but the incident seemed to be looked on as a matter
of course.

August 25. — We have made little progress for
several days, on account of strong current and no
wind. We are now lying below Jangera, one of the
few places of note on this river. It is remarkable for
two large rocks which project out some distance into
the river, and are distant from each other about one
hundred yards. On the top of one is built a mosque,
and on the other a temple. The former is now in
ruins.

August 26. — At our place of mooring this even-
ing, there were many native boats, and I counted
nearly a hundred people belonging to tliem. Only
one man among them all could read the tracts I
offered, and he very imperfectly ; and yet in each
boat there are usually one or two respectable men.
These boats are commonly laden with return cargoes
of various native goods and wares from Calcutta to
different places up the country. The head nmn of
^ne of the boats came to tell me he had some English
goods to sell. Feeling a curiosity to know of what

102

JOURNKV TO LODI AN A *.

description lliey were, I went on board, and found a
box of old Windsor soap and a cracked bottle of
arrow-root. The rest of his cargo was entirely
native. The chief articles in the native trade seem
to be ^alt, rice, various kinds of pulse, cotton, coarse
cotton fabrics, sugar, mustard, oil, &c. We fre-
quently see boats laden with earthenware vessels ;
and less frequently now than lower down, many
boats employed in carrying the indigo plant, which
looks somewhat like long coarse grass, to the nearest
factory. Many boats are filled with European stores
for the various stations up the country. These boats
are always liired, freighted, and insured by some mer-
cantile house in Calcutta.

One is surprised at the lowness of the wages paid
to the boatmen. It is indeed wonderful that they can
live and support their families on such terms. The
common wages are three rupees per month to the
men, ecpial nearly to a dollar and a half of American
money, and four rupees to the manjhi, or head man ;
out of which they must purchase their own food and
clothing, and pay all their expenses of every kind ;
as they have no other means of support. And
although these poor fellows work at a great disad-
vantage, on account of their very awkward boats,
and still more rude means of propelling them ; yet
bating something for the irregular habits of heathen,
I have scarcely ever seen harder working men.
They are daily at work from sunrise to sunset,
pulling, pushing, wading sometimes in mud, often in
water above their waist, exposed all the time to an

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

lOS

intensely hot sun ; and their only reward is a pittance
which enables them to buy their rice to eat, and their
tobacco or their opium to smoke in their huka, and
perhaps once in six months, a piece of coarse cotton
muslin, two or three yards long by three fourths
of a yard wide, for a new suit of clothes. These
boatmen deserve great commiseration. They are
a peaceful, hard-working, and obliging race ; but
they are compelled to live nearly at the lowest point
of human subsistence. Their minds are perfectly
blank as to all elevating knowledge ; their morals are
what might be expected, where the heart is left
utterly uninfluenced by the Gospel, and uncultivated
by good agency of any kind ; and their prospects as
to the future world afford nothing whatever to sup-
port them under the hardships, or comfort them
under the sorrows, of their existence in this life.

August 27. — We reached Munghir. For the last
eight or ten miles, the river has been separated into
various channels, so that, at the place where we
were moored last night, the broadest was not more
than a quarter of a mile wide. Just before reaching
this town, the new iron steamboat, which waslai^ched
a few months ago at Calcutta, passed the budgerow,
bound to Allahabad. This is said to be the second
time a steamer has attempted to ascend any distance
on the Ganges, and it is the first attempt to come so
high as this place. 1 have already mentioned some
of the difficulties attending the navigation of this
river. This vessel moves at rather a slow rate
against the current. But it is a small-sized boat,

6

104

JOURNEY TO LODIANA :

and has in tow a baggage-boat, as large as the
steamer itself.

Munghir presents a ve/y pleasing appearance, as
a person approaches it from the river. It stands on
a kind of promontory, at the south-east extremity of
an island formed by the river, and its situation is
elevated — an advantage possessed by few Indian
towns. It was formerly a place of considerable
strength, in the wars between native kings ; and the
extensive walls of the fort, which are yet remaining,
must have proved almost impregnable to a native
army. Its aspect now is more peaceful and more
pleasing, as the fort has been allowed to go to decayi
and some good looking European houses have been
erected on the high knolls in its inclosure. The native
town seems to be prospering, and the people are driv-
ing an active business in the various kinds of iron
manufactures, for which this place has long been cele-
brated. Fowling-pieces, pistols, kettles, knives, &c.,
are made with great neatness, and at low prices, but
are said to be apt to break, on account of the bad
materials from which they are made.

There is a branch of the Baptist mission at this
place, with two Baptist missionaries, and their fami-
lies. One of them is actively employed in various
efforts to extend the Gospel among the heathen, and
has a small church of some twenty native converts.
There is also an English service on Sundays, and
on one or two evenings during the week. Munghir
is two hundred and seventy-five miles by land from
Calcutta, and probably four hundred miles by the river.

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

105

August 30. — A few miles below Bahar. We are
fully entered into the great plain of Hindusthan, or
Hindusthan proper. A pleasing range of hills, the
Gorruckpore, were in sight the first two days after
leaving Munghir. But now, we may bid farewell to
hills for many hundred miles to come. The banks
of the river have presented an almost continuous
succession of villages ; and the people are a hardier
and more manly looking race than the Bengalis.
The province of Bahar, which forms the western
boundary of Bengal, is one of the largest in this
Presidency. The soil is of a drier nature, and the
climate is said to be more temperate than in Bengal,
though the hot winds from the westward extend over
part of this province. In some parts the proportion
between the Mussulmans and Hindus is one of the
former to three of the latter. The celebrated place
of Hindu pilgrimage, Guya, is in the south part of
this province, about fifty miles south from Patna.
Formerly the East India Company collected an
annual sum equal to eighty thousand dollars, from a
small tax on each pilgrim. It derives its holiness
from having been the birth-place of some of the gods.
This is the chief region of the opium and saltpetre
manufactures ; and instead of the immense fields of
rice which tire the eye in Bengal, we now begin to
see wheat and barley. The town of Bahar, or Bar,
is an old and ruinous looking place, but of consider-
able size, thirty-five miles south-east from Patna.

September 1. — Having had a fine wind, and the
course of the river being very direct from Bar, I

106

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

reached Patna this morning — about three hundred
and seventy miles by land, and five hundred or live
hundred and fifty by water, from Calcutta. The
appearance of this city from the river is certainly supe-
rior to that of most India towns I have yet seen. It is
built chiefly along one street, on the south bank of the
river, which is here more than usually elevated above
the water ; and many of the houses are quite large,
constructed of brick, and abutting on the river.
Yet a nearer view shows that many of the buildings
are going to ruin, while scarcely any of them are in
a better style than is often seen in Hindu buildings
elsewhere. The population is variously estimated.
Probably it is not less than one hundred and fifty
thousand. The number is so large that the city
extends six or seven miles along the river ; though
in no part is the width more than one half or three
fourths of a mile. Among the manufactures of this
city, a kind of cloth resembling diaper and damask
linens, and wax candles, are of most note in other
parts of India. The East India Company have some
of their depots for opium at this place ; of which
article, as of salt, they retain the monopoly.

There are two missionaries at Patna ; one a very
devoted, interesting gentleman of fortune, who is not
in connexion with any society ; the other a Baptist.
Neither of them has been very long here, and they
have not as yet had the privilege of seeing any con-
verts from among the Heathen. The Sikhs have a
place of worship at Patna of considerable repute.
It would be interesting to ^certain how.this solitary

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

107

branch of that religion was planted so far from the
parent stock. After staying a few hours with a kind
Christian family to whom I had letters, and where I
had the additional pleasure of meeting the former
mentioned missionary, I started again in the after-
noon, and made a few miles, mooring for the night
opposite llankipur.

September 2. — Passing Bankipur, where the civil
servants of the Company, engaged in administering
justice and collecting the revenue, chiefly reside,
and then passing Dighah, I stopped between the
latter place and Dinapore, and spent the rest of the
day with another Baptist missionary who is stationed
at this place. Here I enjoyed the satisfaction of
much*Christian intercourse with this family, and the
other Baptist missionary, who had come to spend the
day with them. These brethren, in addition to their
duties among the Heathen in preaching or talking to
them and distributing tracts, have each an English
service attended by .some of the Europeans or others
who speak English. Patna, Bankipur, Dighah, and
Di'napore, form an almost continuous city of twelve
or fifteen miles in length. Dighah is a considerable
village, and Dinapore, the scene of Henry Martyn’s
pious labors, is one of the largest military stations ;
it has also a native population of probably fifteen
or twenty thousand. There is usually a King’s
regiment, a Company’s regiment, and a large artil-
lery detachment of European soldiers, at this post,
who have fine substantial barracks. The church
also makes §i good appearance. With the chaplain

108

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

I did not become acquainted. From all I have
heard, religious matters are in a condition but little
if any better than when the faithful Martyn was
here, or than is described in the Journal of Bishop
Heber.

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

109

CHAPTER VIII.

JOURNEY TO LODIANA CONTINUED.

Rivera and towns — Attar of Roses — Danger from falling banks—
Benares — Allahabad, example of fatal superstition — Review of the
river journey — Dak travelling — Agra — Delhi — Arrive at Lodiana.

September 3. — This morning, there was a fine
breeze which raised quite a sea in the broad expanse
of water over which we sailed. The river is here
several miles wide at this season. In the course of
to-day’s sail, we passed the mouths of three large
rivers which enter the Ganges ; the Gunduk, w'hich
is said to take its rise in Thibet, and in whose waters
the stricter Hindus are forbidden to bathe; the
Gogra, also from the Himalaya mountains, after a
course of five hundred miles; and the Soane, from
the south, after an equally long journey. But, owing
to the lowness of the banks, and the extent to which
the waters are spread over the face of the country,
I could not distinguish the places where their streams
unite with the great river.

About twenty miles above Dinapore, we passed
Chaprah, a fine looking native town, of some thirty
thousand inhabitants, situated on the noilh bank *of
the river. It is the capital of the district of Saran,

no

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

in the province of Bahar, and is the residence of an
English magistrate, a collector, and probably a sur-
geon. This town presents many advantages as a
situation for a mission family. The district of which
it is the’ chief town contains twenty-five hundred
square miles, and its population in 1801 was esti-
mated by the Governor-General from revenue statis-
tics at one million two hundred thousand souls.
Probably, the number at present is not less than a
million and a half.

September 4. — In the evening, we reached Buxar,
where there is a dismantled fort, the situation of
which completely commands the river, contracted
here to little more than a quarter of a mile in width.
Buxar is one of the stations for invalid soldiers ; of
whom there is always a considerable number under
proper officers. It is also one of the places where
the Company have an establishment for rearing
horses for the cavalry. The native town is quite
large, and chiefly composed of Mussulmans.

September 5. — We passed to-day the mouth of the
Karamnasa river, said to be a small winding stream.
For the reason which prevented my seeing the place
of junction of the Soane, I did not enjoy the gratifi-
cation of seeing that of this river with the Ganges.
The banks of the Ganges are now higher, the trees
fewer, and the innumerable villages more uniformly
characterized by having a tope or grove of mango
trees in their immediate vicinity.

September 8. — On the evening of the sixth, I
reached Ghazeepore and spent the Sunday with the

VorAOE ON THE GANGES.

Ill

chaplain, a pious, amiable, and excellent man ; in
whose family I had the pleasure of meeting two or
three officers, connected with the military at this
station. This is both a military and a civil station.
As there is usually a regiment of European soldiers
in the barracks, there is a chaplain and a church.
But for the service of the natives, amounting to
many thousands, perhaps fifty thousand, there is
neither missionary nor any kind of agency employed.
This is an important station for a mission family ; as
there are no missionaries nearer than Benares, which
is forty miles distant, while the population of this
district is as dense as usual. The town is considered
one of the most healthy in India, which I should
think very probable from the high open ground on
which it stands. Of the native inhabitants rather a
large portion are Mussulmans ; but in the country
they do not average more than one eighth of the
people. The character of the people of this town
is rather unfavorably noted. They are spoken of as
lawless and ready for acts of violence.

The country around is extensively covered with
rose bushes, which are cultivated for the purpose of
manufacturing rose water, and the famous attar of
roses. To produce a quantity of the latter equal in
weight to rather less than half an ounce, it is said
that twenty thousand grown roses are required, and
the price of that quantity is about fifty dollars. The
attar is obtained by skimming off the oil, which is
found on the surface of the rose water after being
exposed all might to the dpen air.

6 *

112

J0URN£7 TO LODIANA:

To-day, we got under sail again ; but the wind
being very light, and the current very strong, the
men were soon obliged to go on shore with the rope.
We were to-day frequently exposed to one of the
greatest dangers of travelling on this river. The
banks are often high, crumbling, and ready to fall
into the water. By the tow rope the boat is dragged
close to the bank, whilst the heavy tramp of the men
in pulling, and the rubbing of the rope on the edge
of the bank, frequently detach large masses of
ground. The danger is, that they may fall on the
top of the poor boat ; in which case it would almost
certainly founder. This afternoon, the risk appeared
so great that 1 thought it best to leave the boat and
walk some miles. The sun was covered with clouds,
so that I did not experience the evil influence which
invariably attends exposure to his rays at this season
of the year.

September 9. — We passed a Conductor’s fleet of
boats, some thirty or forty, carrying military stores
to different stations of the army. We passed also
the native town of Seidpur, a place of some business.
No incidents of much interest occured.

September 11. — We reached the far-famed city,
Benares. The appearance of this city is certainly
very fine, as one approaches it on the river. It
stands on a high bank, perhaps thirty feet above
the water, on the inner side of the crescent, or semi-
circular sweep, which the river here makes of some
three or four miles ; so that, at one glance, a person
can see the entire river view of the city. , This view

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

113

is quite singular, without anything to resemble it,
much less to rival it. The houses are built close to
the edges of the bank. Numerous temples stand
also on the same eminence, while many ghats, or
landing places, of stone steps, leading from the water
up to the top of the bank, some of them very large,
are covered with crowds of worshippers bathing or
washing in the holy river.

But it is in the city itself that a person sees how
entirely it is “ given to idolatry.** The streets are
so narrow that neither carriage nor horse can enter
them; at least, it is not expedient to attempt pene-
trating them on horseback ; and, in a carriage, it is
not practicable. As the houses are very high, never
less than two stories, but more frequently five or
six, there is an air of gloomy seriousness, befitting
the holy place of such a religion. At every corner
and turn, the eye sees temples and pagodas, of all
sizes, and of every kind of structure. In the streets
many fat, lazy, tame Brahmany bulls are walking
about at their leisure ; and beggars, and devotees,
and Brahmans, are not less numerous. The walls
of the houses often present rude paintings of the
different gods and goddesses, with their various
transformations and exploits, their many arms and
weapons ; and, in the raised narrow projections, at
the doors of the houses, and in the inner corners of
streets, are sitting numerous person.s, selling flowers
and beads for the accommodation of the multitude
of worshippers. In the temples there are always
numerous Ebrahmans ; some reading in loud, chanting

114

JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

tones, the shasters ; others, besmearing an obscene
image with oil, and decorating it with flowers ; others,
pouring4ibations of holy water from the Ganges on
the idols, and on diflTerent places in the temple ;
while not unfrequently a crpwd of holy beggars,
looking like demons through chalk and cow-dung,
make a person almost deaf with their incessant
repetition of Ram ! Ram ! Ram !

Benares is held as sacred for ten miles round, but
particular places in it are accounted peculiarly holy.
One visit to this city secures for the pilgrim a sure
admission into heaven. Many resort here from all
parts of India, to flnish their days ; and so great is
the fame of its holiness that many Rajahs have vakils
residing here, to perform for them the requisite cere-
monies and ablutions. It is said that within this
city are a million of images of an obscene image. If
true, or even near the truth, this estimate conveys a
mournful idea of the state of morals. The mosque
built by Aurengzebe is the highest edifice, the mina-
rets being upwards of two hundred feet high. It
was built to mortify the Hindus, and is erected on
the site of one of their most holy temples. The
view from the top is very extensive and interesting.

Among the various buildings of some interest is
an old Observatory, where may be seen a large
gnomon of stone and some other instruments.
Benares is not merely the Jerusalem of the Hindus ;
it is also their Athens. There are many private
schools in which Sanscrit is studied under learned
Brahman Pandits, who are supported by native

V0TA6B ON fUe GANGES.

lid

princes and other wealthy Hindus. There is also
a Hindu College, in which are taught the various
branches of Hindu learning, not excepting astrology,
nor the astronomy of Ptolemy, nor the geography
which teaches that the earth is supported by the
tortoise “ chakwa,*' and that mount Meru, standing
in the centre of the vast plain which forms the
earth’s surface, supports the seven heavens. It
is said to have eight or ten professors, and about
two hundred students. The superintendent is an
European.

The population has been estimated at upwards of
five hundred thousand ; but many suppose that
it does not exceed three hundred thousand. At
particular festivals the concourse is great beyond any
computation. The European residents live in
Secrole, one of the suburbs, about three miles distant
from the chief part of the city. There is also a
regiment of sepoys stationed there, and a chaplain.

There are seven missionaries at this city ; three
of the Church Society, and one superintendent of
a large English and Persian school, founded by a
wealthy native, but committed to the management
of that Society ; three of the London Missionary
Society, who have a small chapel and stated service
in the city ; and one of the Serampore Baptist So-
ciety, who resides in the city, and has a room in his
own house fitted for a chapel. Usually these bre-
thren go every day to the city, and talk with the
people, and give religious books and tracts to those
who they think will make a good use of them.

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JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

Though they have not yet had any conversions,
they all say that they are heard with more attention
and seriousness now than a few years ago.

Of the journey above Benares, I will give some
notices from letters written . at different places.
From Benares, passing Chunar, Mirzapore, and
other native towns, I reached Allahabad on the 23d
of September. From a letter written on the next
day to the Secretary of the Society, the following
extract is taken :

“ The junction of the Ganges and Jumna, you
know, is regarded by the Hindus as one of the most
holy places in the sacred river. As the Jumna is
not an object of worship, I hardly know how the
opinion has originated that the goddess Gunga, or
Ganges, should derive an accession of holiness from
her union with that river. Nor is there anything in
the natural scenery of the place peculiarly impres-
sive. The country is level on both sides, though
not so fl.'it as in Bengal, and the two rivers unite
without occasioning, even at this season when both
are much swollen, any great noise or large waves.
We behold with interest two large rivers flowing
together, but apart from that, there is not so much
to excite ideas of power in the junction of these
rivers as of the Alleghany and Monongahela.

Till a few years ago it was quite common for the
deluded worshippers, many of them, to drown them-
selves at this place, supposing that thereby the pos-
session of heaven was rendered certain. The boat,
in which they were accustomed to go to. the proper

VOYAOS ON TNE GANGES. 117

place to take their departure, came at last into the
possession of an old woman, some time before the
English authorities interfered to put a stop to the
custom, and she “ by that craft had her wealth.” Of
course she did not relish a change which would take
away her income, and earnestly contended that
people had a right to drown themselves if they
pleased. The magistrate was firm, and while he did
not directly oppose the custom, he informed all con-
cerned that he would punish with death any who
should, in any way, be accessary to their destruc-
tion. This simple measure brought the custom to
an end. This occurred but a few years ago. I
could not but feel sad at heart while sailing over the
place where many of our fellow creatures * rushed
unbidden’ into the presence of their final Judge,
hoping to secure his favor by an act of sin, assured
of heaven while on the way to a widely different
destiny. And though the practice no longer exists,
yet the creed does in all its blighting influence. Oh,
soon may the knowledge of the true way of happi-
ness be spread amongst this people ! Incidents like
these sacrifices, and like the swinging by hooks in-
serted in the muscles of the back, of which I saw an
example last spring, would seem to show that the
promptings of natural conscience are very strong,
even where great ignorance exists. However much
may be ascribed to motives of vainglory in the ap-
plause of men, and to the influence of stupefying
doses of opium, yet the foundation of these customs
lies • much deeper. Their origin and continued

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JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

existence show that the witness which God has
created in the bosom of every man (see Acts xiv.
17, compared with Rom. i. 20), still performs its
duty. Such proofs of the power of natural con-
science should encourage missionaries in their
addresses to the heathen, to make pointed appeals
to it.’'

From Cawnpore, where the river part of the
journey was ended on the 9th of October, a letter
was sent to the same gentleman, of which a part is
annexed :

“ A journey on this river affords to those who can
speak the language many opportunities of usefulness
to the natives. Villages are thickly studded along
the banks ; many boats are often moored at the
same place with yours ; generally during daylight,
and often at night too, the people live in the open
air, and are very willing to listen to your instruc-
tions, and to receive your books, I distributed a
good many tracts, and at times under circumstances
which greatly affected my mind. On one Sabbath,
a venerable aged Brahman, the chifef man in the vil-
lage where the boat was lying to, came to ask for a
tract. He could not read himself, but said he would
get his little grandson to read it for him, and he
listened with much attention while I read a few
pages. In coming up this river, a person should
have some Bengali, and as many Hindu! and Hin-
dustani tracts as he can obtain, and also separate
books of the sacred Scriptures.

** A journey of 'this kind affords much leisure* for

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

119

personal improvement. The time is hardly ever
less than two months and a half, often three months,
during which hut little occurs to prevent close appli-
cation to reading, writing, 6lc. Few visits or calls
to pay or to receive, few newspapers to spend the
morning over, few objects of interest in the scenery
around : the danger is rather that of having too
much, than too little time for study. There is
something also in this kind of life to promote the
improvement of the heart in piety. Certainly the
presence of so many visible dangers, and the pre-
serving care of the Lord, often too obvious to be
overlooked, ' in perils of waters — in perils by the
heathen,’ should call forth unfeigned gratitude, no
less than humble confidence in the providence and
grace of God.

“ There are few objects of interest to be seen in a
journey on this river. The Raj-mahal, and the
Gorruckpore Hills, and the city of Benares, ap-
peared to me more interesting than anything else —
the former, by reminding me of our ‘lovely native
land the latter, because so perfectly unique, for I
suppose it W'ould be diflicult to find another city
with so many features peculiar to itself. In general,
the country is very level, the banks of the river low
and monotonous in appearance, the river itself as
muddy as high rivers usually are, and less impetuous,
and apparently quite unconscious of its divine cha-
racter, and equally regardless of the worship it
receives. As to the native villages and towns, when
you have seqn one, you have seen a specimen of

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JOURNEY TO LODIANA:

nearly all. The great part of the houses are low
mud cottages, with two low doors, and covered with
thatch coming so low down in front as to form a
sort of veranda, or open portico. Usually a great
many low shady trees are found in their villages, and
one or two large peepul trees. Around the foot of
one of these a clay platform is erected, and there,
under the wide spreading branches' in the afternoon,
you may see most of the respectable villagers smok-
ing their hukas, and probably discussing the poli-
tics and news of the village. These are the places
where a missionary should take his station, and
direct their thoughts to heavenly themes. If he
were prudent and kind in his manner, he would
hardly ever fail to obtain a patient and respectful
hearing.

“One is much struck with the good taste these
people have displayed in choosing the sites of their
temples. Those, in the country and in villages, are
commonly small four, six, or eight sided buildings, of
brick, covered with j)laster, about ten or twelve feet
high, surmounted by a dome and a short spire.
They have seldom any other furniture than the idol,
or emblems peculiar to the particular deity wor-
shipped, though these are frequently of the most
indecent description — too much so to be named
openly, much less described. I have often admired
the situation of the temples. Where there happens
to bo a high, bold bank to the river, you will very
often see one of these small buildings standing, white
and conspicuous, in the midst of two or. three small

VOYAGE ON THE GANGES.

121

trees of little more than its own height. At other
times you see them in low places, under an over-
spreading peepul, close by the water’s edge, with a
flight of steps leading down into the water. Per-
haps a fine grove of open, round-topped trees, may
form a back view of peculiar beauty. These Hindu
places of worship, however, furnish nothing to im-
prove either the intellect or the heart. Every asso-
ciation, every thought awakened by the great majority
of heathen temples, is demoralizing and ruinous to
the soul. They furnish occasionally a place for the
reading of shastras, which, in many cases, neither
reader nor hearer understands. But even this is sel-
dom done ; there is no stated assembling of the
people to receive instruction ; there is neither scribe
nor teacher ; neither book nor manuscript. The
worshippers, after saying over by rote some dry
names of gods, sprinkling a little water, and offering,
perhaps, a few flowers to the idol, and if followers of
Shiva, daubing his face with some mud, not for-
getting sundry ablutions in the Ganges, when the
temple is near it, then go away as ignorant as they
came, and more depraved.

“ I ought to notice one other feature of a journey
on this river — the intercourse with missionaries. At
Serampore, Chinsurah, Cutwa, Berhampore, Monghyr,
Patna, Digah, Benares, and Buxar, there are mis-
sionaries, either of the Baptist, London, or Church
Societies. It is necessary to stop at most of these
places to obtain provisions, and the Christian kind-
ness of these good people is very refreshing, while a

122

JOURNEY TO LODIANA.

knowledge of their plans and operations and expe-
rience will be of great service. Everywhere it will
be found that God regards the kind of heart with
which he is served more than the kind of missionary
organization. Here are the agents of voluntary and
ecclesiastical societies; all have been blessed, and
the former certainly not more than the latter. But
all can labor in love, and there is room and need
for all, and for many more.**

From Cawnpore to Lodiana I proceeded by dak,
travelling in a palanquin. From other letters a few
notices are here inserted of this pari of the journey :

Delhi, October 27. — “ At Cawnpore, I made a new
disposal of my goods and chattels ; putting them on
three hackeries, or rude carts, of three oxen each.
The distance thence to Lodiana is about five hun-
dred miles ; and the expense of transporting them
will be considerably less than in the United States
by a similar or land conveyance. As for myself, I
had to decide on travelling by dak. In this manner
one goes along, night and day, at the rate of four
miles an hour.

**At night a dak traveller presents a singular
appearance. Foremost are the petarrah walas, or
bundle-carriers; of whom I have three, each man
walking along with a peculiar fast gait, and carrying
two bundles of twenty -five pounds each, swung at the
ends of a stick over his shoulder. Then comes the
traveller in his palanquin, borne by four men, who
at every step make a peculiar unpleasant sound, a

JOURNEY TO LODIANA.

123

kind of grunt, by way of music ; while four others
run by their side ; each set relieving the other about
once in every five minutes. But the most singular
appendage is the mussAlchi^ or torch bearer, who
runs along beside, carrying a large torch, on which
he pours oil every few minutes, making a fine light.
Every ten or twelve miles, a fresh set of men are
stationed. The chief difficulty in this mode of tra-
velling is its irksomeness, from one^s always lying in
the same position. Persons who cannot sleep at
night are seldom able to endure the fatigue ; but I
got along finely, sleeping as well as usual, until, at
the end of their stages, the bearers would awake me
for their bakshish, or usual present of a few anas.
From Cawnpore to Agra, a distance of about one
hundred and ninety miles was travelled in fifty
hours ; and from Agra to Delhi, one hundred and
fifty miles in thirty-seven hours.

“ Agra and Delhi are the two chief cities of Upper
India ; and are the richest in memorials of former
greatness that I have ever seen. The Taj, at Agra,
is a wonderfully chaste and beautiful monument to
the favorite wife of a Moghul emperor. The main
building stands on a white marble terrace or plat-
form, and has four tall minarets or towers, of grace-
ful structure, one at each corner of the terrace — all
built of polished white marble. One side fronts on
the river Jumna, and the entrance on the opposite
side is through a beautiful garden. Perhaps the
feature, which attracts chief attention in the interior
of the Taj, is. the mosaic work, or inlaying of came-

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JOURNEY TO LODI AN A.

lian, and other valuable stones, in the shape of flowers
and vines, of great variety in figure and delicacy
of coloring. Two richly finished tombs, in what
might almost be called the cellar, but which have
corresponding tombs in the chief apartments, directly
above the lower ones, contain the only inhabitants
of this wonderful edifice. Their glory has passed
away ; even their names are nearly forgotten ; while
as to their present condition, the multitude of ex-
tracts from the Koran, on the walls, inlaid, aflbrd
little ground of hope that they look back on their
earthly splendor, or on the sepulchral state of their
clay-tabernacles, with any rejoicing. The Taj was
erected by Shah Jehan, in memory of Nur Nahal ;
and when he died his remains were entombed by
her side.

“ The fort at Agra, containing a palace and a
mosque of white marble, is also well worth seeing ;
as are some other tombs. At Delhi, there are
several rno.sques and public buildings of great interest,
which are larger, but less highly finished, than those
at Agra. The principal masjid, or Mohammedan
temple, in this city is built of a kind of freestone.
These Mohammedan buildings, — the Taj and mosques
at Agra, and the mosques at Delhi, — are generally
constructed on the same principles of architecture ;
which indeed seem to characterize all Mohammedan
public buildings. You have a noble terrace, with
perhaps some fine reservoirs of water. Then in the
centre of the terrace stands the main building, sur-
mounted invariably by one dome ; sometimes by

JOURNEY TO LODIANA.

125

more, with short gilded spires ; while at two of the
corners of the terrace, and sometimes at all the four,
lofty minarets or towers arise, either of octagonal or
circular form, and usually very lofty. At Benares,
two are upwards of two hundred feet high ; at Agra,
the four of the Taj are about the same height, and
perhaps some of the minarets here are nearly as
lofty. They are generally surmounted by an open
cupola.

I went through the palace in this city, in which all
that remains of the former splendid Moghul royalty
now resides. Some of the palaces, temples, mosques,
and tombs are imposing; but there is always a
strange combination, in these eastern countries, of
greatness and meanness in the public buildings, as in
other things. The great hall of audience, for ex-
ample, with its large court, where suppliant kings
and ambassadors formerly knelt, is the next in
series to a stable yard, from which it is separated
only by a single large gate ! The throne, whence
Aurengzebe gave laws to millions, is ascended by a
dark narrow flight of rough stone steps ; though there
was another and better entrance to it, which is now
walled up. The throne itself is now covered with
defilement, while the hall of audience is lumbered up
with old palanquins, worn out carriages, &c. The
present Moghul Emperor has no authority out of the
palace, and seems to care little about its interior
appearance, provided he may have plenty to eat.
The English treat him with a great show of respect ;
whigh is probably the reason that so little care is

126

JOURNEY TO liOillANA.

given to keeping things in better order. If the
palace were entirely theirs, there is little doubt that
their liberal policy would secure the careful preser-
vation of these remains of the. former greatness of
the Moghul dominion.

** The missionary here is Mr. Thompson ; a good,
intelligent, judicious man, of considerable enterprise,
and much respected by the English people. He has
been seventeen years at this city ; speaks the lan-
guage, of course, as it is his mother tongue, with
perfect fluency; and is very diligent. The Lord
has granted him to see some few converts from the
heathen. He was once at Lodiana, and has travelled
much on missionary tours in the Upper Provinces ;
I was therefore very glad to hear him say that he
considered our field of labor the finest in India.

“ I went about fourteen miles, all the way through
ruins of the old city, to see the Kutab, an immense
tower of two hundred and forty feet in height. The
view from the top of it is fitted to awaken strange
and painful emotions. For miles and miles around, you
see scarcely anything but the ruins of former great-
ness. One dilapidated palace, or mosque, or tomb,
after another, rises in the view, till you are almost
oppressed at seeing such manifold evidences of the
feebleness of man. The river Jumna terminates the
view in one direction ; and, though here but a nar-
row stream, it is a perpetual witness of the power
of God in his works, who can preserve as well as
create. * * * **

lOURNET TO LODIANA.

127

November 5, — “ After leaving Kurnal, one hundred
and twenty miles north of Delhi, I entered the terri-
tory of the Protected Sikh States. There is nothing,
however, in the appearance of the towns, or in the
state of cultivation, to show the traveller that he has
left the Company’s territory. Enjoying the protec-
tion of British influence, this region seems to enjoy
the same peace and degree of prosperity that dis-
tinguish English from Native rule in these parts of
the earth. But from Cawnpore, and especially from
Delhi, it is easy to see that the inhabitants are a
more energetic, warlike people, than those of the
lower provinces. You meet many native travellers,
armed with swords, spears, or matchlocks — some-
times with all these weapons. They are large,
strongly built men, with full beards, commonly ; and
often look savage enough; but are in fact very
peaceable, if not molested.

“ Northward of Delhi, the soil for the most part is
very sandy, and under only partial cultivation.
There are few trees, except in the neighborhood of
the towns. The inhabitants do not live, as we should
say, ‘ in the country but nearly all dwell in large
towns, which are mostly walled. This circumstance,
in connexion with the common practice of carrying
arms, indicates that the stale of the country has
formerly been very unsettled ; which indeed was the
case. But we may hope those days have passed
away, and that the times of peace which have suc-
ceeded, will afford opportunity to introduce the
peaceful reign of our Saviour.’*

7

128

JOUHNEY TO LODIANA, &C.

1 reached Lodiana, my post of missionary duty,
on the 5th of November, 1834. This was nearly
eighteen months after leaving Philadelphia. And
it serves to show the manner in which distant
places have been connected with each other, by the
providence of Him who beholds all the nations of the
earth at one view, that a messenger from churches
in the western hemisphere, after traversing nearly
seventeen thousand miles of the broad ocean, and
penetrating thirteen hundred miles further towards
the heart of Asia, should at last find his sphere of
labor in a city unknown even by name to those by
whom he was sent, when his journey was at first
undertaken. Our neighbors are all our fellow men
whom we can reach, directly or indirectly, to do them
good ; and Christian and Heathen nations are now
so related to each other that the multitudes of those
who are sitting in darkness and the shadow of
death,” though living in distant lands and of a strange
speech, may he effectively reached by the benevo-
lence of their more favored brethren. We may
offer to them the blessed gospel if we are so inclined.

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

129

CHAPTER IX.

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

Lodiana — Sicknesis — English Preaching — Importance of Schools —

English School at Lodiana.

“ Lodiana is the most remote of the English
stations in India on the North West. It is situated
on a small nalla, or creek, about five miles from
the river Sutlej, which forms the eastern boundary
of the Panjab, and divides the territories under British
influence from those of Ranjit Singh, the ruler of
the Sikhs on the other side of the river. The pre-
sent population of Lodiana is estimated at from
twenty thousand to twenty-five thousand ; and is on
the increase. When the navigation of the Indus is
freed from the present restraints, which will most
probably be within another year, the town may be
expected to increase considerably ; as it will then
become one of the marts of trade with countries
down the Indus. It is now a place of considerable
business intercourse with the countries westward.
Few towns have so varied a population in people and
language. There are two regiments of infantry,
and one troop of horse artillery here, commanded,
of course, by English officers ; so that nearly a hun-

130

EVENTS AT LODlANA.

dred persons use the English language. There are
probably two thousand five hundred people from
Cashmere, who have found refuge here from the
famine and oppression which have almost desolated
their beautiful native valley. There are about one
thousand Afighans, who speak Persian chiefly. The
higher classes, of whatever nation, in this part of
India pride themselves on speaking Persian. The
Sikhs, who, both on this side of the Sutlej and on the
other, form about one tenth of the population, speak
and write (when they can write at all, which is sel-
dom the case) the Gurniukhi or Panjabi dialect,
which appears to be formed from the Hindui.

** In regard to Lodiana, as a place for missionary
operations, I still think it quite desirable to have a
mission established here, of two families for the pre-
sent *, that is, of two married missionaries. One of
them, in addition to the Hindui, should possess a
knowledge of the Panjabi. The other to Hindus-
tani or Urdu should add Persian. After some time,
perhaps one, two, or three years at the farthest, a
press will most probably be nearly indispensable.
At first, the missionaries will need to labor in a quiet
way, avoiding professions of intention to convert
the natives, but watching and improving the oppor-
tunities which I have no doubt will be constantly
occurring for conversation, distribution of portions
of the Scriptures, Tracts, &c.

“ One thing has been much impressed on my mind
— the importance of sending some person to make
observation before a mission, of any size at least, is

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

131

resolved on. I find that actual observation has cor-
rected and modified my views of this field of mis-
sionary labor in no small degree ; as 1 shall now
briefly describe : 1. The way does not seem to be
yet open for direct efforts, as it is, for instance, in
the lower provinces. The native chiefs on this side
the Sutlej, and Ranjit Singh on the other side, have
still the power to prevent an intercourse with their
people. It is not probable that they would attempt
to do it, if quiet, prudent measures were pursued.
2. The maimer in which the population is distributed
is quite different from what I expected to find. Judg-
ing from other parts of India. The people chiefly
dwell in large towns, often considerably distant from
each other ; while the intervening country is unin-
habited. This circumstance may afford a better
opportunity ultimately of making all the people
acquainted with the gospel. 3. The proportion of
those who embrace the religion of Mohammed is
much larger than I had supposed, and they constitute
the better classes of the people. The Sikhs form
about the tenth or twelfth part of the people. The
great majority of the rest are Mussulmans. There
is less prospect of their conversion than of any class ;
yet ‘ the arm of the Lord is not shortened, that it
cannot save.'

The same letter, having been delayed some three
weeks, conveyed the news of sickness, leading after-
wards to an entire change in my course of life :

“ .What a change in a man's prospects and hopes

132

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

is sometimes effected by the events and the informa-
tion of a few days ! Since niy last date, I have been
ill with a severe attack of congestion of the liver.
Through the favor of God,- the means used have
been attended with so much success that I am now
able to sit up again, at least during part of the day*
For about a week, I could neither read nor attend to
anything ; I had scarcely strength to rise from my
bed. This was partly owing to the severe course of
medicine which it was found necessjiry to prescribe.
But I do not love to dwell on what has been severe,
there has been so much goodness mingled with this
illness. Though a stranger, I have received the
kind treatment of friendship. I have especially
cause for thankfulness in having had the services of
a skilful and experienced surgeon. My mind too
has been kept in peace ; and now that I am getting
better, I am glad to l^ive a grateful heart, and to feel
inclined to trust in the Lord with renewed confi-
dence The Doctor tells me, that my

constitution will not suit this climate, and the sooner
I return the better.”

On recovering from the severe illness referred to
in this letter, I took charge of a school for the edu-
cation of native boys in English, and also of a school
for the children of the Drummers, Serjeants, and
Native soldiers, besides conducting public worship on
the Lord s Day, attended by the English officers and
others speaking our language.

This latter service was very well attended, .and

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

133

was an important, and in the circumstances then
existing, an appropriate sphere of duty. Where the
Europeans at a station are disposed to attend on the
ordinances and ministrations of religion, it isdecidedly
important to have these services established. Not
to insist that their spiritual interests should never be
neglected any more than those of other men, their
official standing and their superior character give
them every advantage for promoting the welfare of
the natives, both by their own eflbrts directly, as
representing our common religion, and by the coun-
tenance and co-operation which they can give to
the missionary. There may be in some cases an
impropriety in a missionary's undertaking such duties,
especially where chaplains are already officiating ;
and in no case should missionaries turn aside from
their proper vocation, in the hope of greater use-
fulness amongst the comparatively few Europeans at
their station. Their work is a special one, and it is
clearly defined by the commission under which they
act ; it must not be thrown into the shade by any
other undertaking. As they have opportunity, how-
ever, they must do good unto all men ; and the main
difficulty will often be, to know how to give a due
share of their time and labor to the numerous claims
which are made on them. The greatest usefulness
in the long run to the greatest number must be their
aim. In my own instance, there could be no difficulty
about giving a part of my time to this English
service, as I had been constrained to relinquish the

184

EVENTS AT L09IANA.

study of the native language, by the slight prospect
of being able to continue long in the country.

The English school had been set on foot by Cap-
tain now Colonel Sir C. M. Wade, the Political
Agent, a few naonths before I reached Lodiana, and
had been placed under one of his native clerks, with
the design of transferring it to my care when I should
arrive. Some fourteen or sixteen native boys had
been in attendance. After a few weeks the number
was increased to about fifty, of whom some were the
sons of two or three native chiefs, and other respec-
table native gentlemen ; some of them were Hindus,
others AflTghans, others Cashmerians, and a few
Sikhs; speaking, amongst them, the Hindui, Hin-
dustani, Gurmukhi, Pushto, Persian, and Cashmerian
languages. By giving two or three hours a day to
the superintendence of the school, and with the valu-
able service of an Indo-British teacher, the progress
of the scholars was very creditable to themselves,
and gratifying to their generous patron. Captain
Wade, and other European visitors.

Several of these youths evinced no ordinary
degree of capacity, and most of them were of clever
abilities. All were uniformly respectful in their
behavior, and after a little training became studious
and some of them earnest in their attention to their
books. It was delightful to look on their animated
faces, and see their eyes kindle as they received
knowledge daily to which before they had been
strangers. And when their confidence had been

eVENTS At LODIANA.

135

gained, they appeared to regard me with mingled
respect and affection, and to receive my instructions
with apparently perfect faith. 1 advert to this,
though at the risk of appearing to speak my own
praise, for a special reason — to show how invaluable
are the opportunities afforded to a missionary by
such a school for promoting the great object of his
mission. He has a most hopeful charge, a company
of youths whose minds are as yet but partially under
the influence of heathen opinions and associations!
The influence of their families, out of school, is
doubtless strongly unfavorable, but this weighty
hinderance is perhaps more decidedly felt by adults
than by children in India. And opportunities will
occur every day of correcting the false views which
prevail around them, and imparting clear and con-
nected instruction concerning the Christian religion,
while all the teaching of the missionary is enforced
by his example, and rendered almost sacred in the
eyes of the scholars by their high views of his cha-
racter.

The importance- of Christian schools becomes still
more apparent when we recollect that the main hope
of success in our endeavors to convert any heathen
people, so far as the use of means is concerned, con-
sists in preparing native agents who shall preach
the gospel to their countrymen. These must be
chosen and qualified, in heathen as in Christian
countries, chiefly amongst the youth. Missionaries
from foreign countries are indispensable in the first
instance. • It is theirs to sow the seed, to plant Chris-
7 *

18 B

EVENTS AT LODIANA.

tian institutions, to organize and train the army of
native soldiers of the cross, and for a while to be the
officers of “the sacramental host.” All this they
are now doing in India. But they labor under great
disadvantages. Their numbers are too small ; they
are and ever must be regarded as foreigners, imper-
fectly acquainted with the language, the usages, and
the habits of mental association of the people ; they
cannot live but at great expense, compared with the
cost of supporting a native missionary ; they are
poorly fitted by their previous habits and by their
having been brought up in colder countries, for re*
sisting the insidious and too often fatal inflqgnce of
the Indian climate : these and similar considerations
will ever preclude the hope of the conversion of the
Hindus by a purely foreign agency, and they show
the necessity of directing our endeavors to the
training of a native ministry, on whom must finally
devolve the great work of evangelizing India. The
limited experience of European missionaries in India
would, it seems to me, fully support these views.
Those missions and missionaries have been most
successful, which employed the largest and best
trained force of native assistants. And it is very
satisfactory to know that within the last few years,
these doctrines have been more fully recognised by
missionary societies than formerly. We may indulge
brighter hopes, therefore, of future success. Indeed
it has always appeared to me surprising that objec-
tions should be made against missionaries having
the charge of schools among the heathen— espe-

BVENT8 AT LODI AN A.

187

cially in India, where nearly all the native writings,
no matter how erroneous, have a sacred charac^
ter, and where all the instructions of the missionary,
even concerning geography or astronomy, have a
direct influence in overthrowing the great fabric of
Hindu superstition. In every heathen country, the
missionary's schools are his churches, the scholars his
congregation, and every day is hallowed by him in
communicating Christian knowledge. It cannot be
contended that preaching the gospel, which is doubt-
less the one great object of the missionary's life, is to
be restricted to the forms of stated public worship
which have been matured in old Christian communi-
ties — to preaching elaborate sermons, for example,
delivered from a pulpit to the people sitting below in
pews. There could have been very little preaching of
this kind in the Apostolic age, or in times of persecu-
tion afterwards. Divine truth may undoubtedly be
preached without the presence of the forms which
we so justly revere. It may be made known by a
public and authorized person in many other ways.
It .nay be taught by the gift of the Sacred Volume
V. :lii a few words of kind advice; it may be pro-
claimed with a loud voice in the midst of the con-
J'used multitude, pressing madly after their idols ; it
may be preached to a few natives under the shade
of a banyan tree, by the missionary’s earnest talking
with them ; it may be announced in quietness and
peace in the humble mission chapel, to a little com-
pany of patient hearers ; and we should be thankful
for all these ways of preaching good news to our

138

«VE«TS Alf tOtlXHA.

fellow men. Why should we feel less thankful that
the gospel may be taught daily to children, teachably
and hopefully waiting on the lips of well known and
beloved instructors ? If there, have been schools in
which a decided Christian influence has not been
exerted, I am not their advocate ; but when properly
conducted, schools certainly afford most important
facilities for advancing the object which the Church
has in view in her missions to the heathen. At the
san>e time, I am well aware that serious difficulties
may often exist to hinder the usefulness of schools, and
even to prevent their being taken under the mis->
sionary’s care.

If I have dwelt too long on this topic, it has been!
only in part on account of its deep importance to
the successful prosecution of the missicmary work ;•
1 have also wished to secure the reSder's greater*
interest in the school, with which our efl’orts among
the natives at Lodiana were commenced. Its early
history has given pleasing evidence of the favor of
God towards our mission.

At first, however, there seemed to be no little
uncertainty about its prospects, and whether indeed
it should become a mission school This maji;
appear surprising to the reader who recollects the
account given by Mr. Reed and my.self in our letter'
to the Society, from which an extract has been
given on a previous page ; but that letter conveyed
only the impressions made by the information we
bad then received. Now, 1 found that •among the

fiVBNfS At LofitANA.

139

Europeans in the Upper Provinces there was much
apprehension about connecting religious instruction
with the education of the natives ; and some men,
of liberal views too, were decidedly opposed to such
a union, at least at this time. The general policy
of the government colleges, in which the Christian
religion is no more recognised than the Mohamme-^
dan or any other, should be followed With special
care, it was argued, amongst a people so partially
under subjection to the British as the inhabitants of
the Protected Sikh States, and a people moreover of
so much independence, not to say recklessness of
character. The popularity of these colleges among
the natives was everywhere acknowledged, but the
successful religious institutions of learning in Calcutta,
attended largely by n«at!Ve youths of the highest castes,
were not so well known in the Upper Provinces, oi*
not considered examples to be imitated where the cir^
cumstances were so different. And it was easy,
starting from premises like these, to form quite an
array of objections, which I doubt not were sincerely
felt, against attempting to combine religion and
education in schools ff)r the natives. Religious pre-
judices .would be aroused, disaffection might be
created against the government, and the improve-*
ment of the natives retarded by premature zeal j
these were opinions which it is not strange that men
should form in the peculiar circumstances of these
provinces. I esteemed myself highly fortunate in
having to consult with a gentk iuan of such enlarged
and correct views, and of such general zeal for the

140

EVENTS AT LOEIANA.

good of the natives, as were evinced by the Political
Agent at Lodiana. With many other men it might
have been impracticable for me to have had any
connexion with the English school at that place, as
I could not consent to take the responsible charge of
an institution from which our holy religion was to
be utterly excluded. After mature reflection, the
school was fully placed under my control, and its
studies were directed by a settled plan. No profes-
sions of our object were ostentatiously made, but on
the other hand no concealment of our views was
attempted, nor was there any withholding of religious
instruction. No alarm was awakened among either
Hindus, Mussulmans, or Sikhs; and the school,
after a fair trial, was considered a successful efibrt.
At least, a favorable beginning had been made, though
another and hardly less critical decision as to its
permanent character was yet to be given.

Thus far there was abundant ground for acknow-
ledging the hand of God for good towards our mission,
and, we trust, towards the native inhabitants. It
would have been a matter of deep regret, if the first
eflbrts in this new sphere of education had been
established on the contracted policy of excluding
that instruction, without which all other teaching is
incomplete and unsatisfactory; thereby awakening
or confirming a host of prejudices, and closing the
door against the most valuable opportunities of im-
parting religious knowledge to those, who were soon
to wield the highest native influence. Indeed so
grave was the complexion of this matter, that I could

EVENTS AT LOEIANA.

141

not but seriously doubt the expediency of remaining
at Lodiana, unless it could be satisfactorily adjusted.
This was evidently the first thing to be done, as
matters then stood in that city ; and not to have had
the supervision of whatever was done or attempted
might have proved in many ways embarrassing.
But whatever fears I might have been constrained
to indulge, not so much from the views of Europeans
at this city as from the general considerations already
referred to, I could not but acknowledge with lively
gratitude the favor of Him, who disposes and governs
all the counsels of men according to his own holy
will. Nor could I fail to be grateful to those Euro-
peans of the station, Jind particularly to the Political
Agent, Captain Wade, who in this instance as in all
others proved himself a cordial and eflicient friend
of our mission.

14a

¥OtTlt TO tAflOCi

CHAPTER X.

Tour to tAiioRi

tnrdrmatidn desired— ^Invitation from Ranjit Singh — Manner of tra-
velling — Appearance of the country — Paghwarah — Dancing girls»-a
Villages — Citiea—Interview with a Native Chief — River Bias—
Cashmorian emigrants — Sacred reservoir at Amritsir ; visit of a
Native Chief.

Thosr who are engaged in establishing a new
trlission, should seek earnestly for such information
as shall enable them wi.sely to form their plans of
proceeding. They should know the numbers of the
people amongst whom they arc to labor ; their cha-
racter, busincs.s, usages, learning, government, laws,
state of society, chief towns and cities, and other
matters affecting their condition, and especially their
religion and its institutions and observances. These
things influence greatly the efforts, both in kind and
extent, which the missionary should undertake for
their welfare. Entertaining this opinion, I endea-
vored to collect information on these points from
every quarter ; particularly after the physician, to
whose kind and valuable services I was so deeply
indebted, had given his ojanion as to the necessity
of my returning home. As our mission had a spe-

TOUR TO LAnOR.

143

cial reference to the Sikh people who inhabit these
north-western parts of India, and as most of the
Sikh tribes live in the Panjab, or country between
the Sutlej and the Indus, under the government of
Maha Rajah Ranjit Singh, and are seldom visited by
foreigners, I -was anxious to make a tour on the
other side of the Sutlej. I soon lefarned that there
was little prospect of being able to make such a
journey. Through jealousy of foreign influence,
Ranjit was reluctant to permit Europeans and other
foreigners to enter his territories; and to avoid
giving umbrage to a ruler of so much power, the
British authorities did not authorize foreigners to
cross the Sutlej, except in special instances. I had
therefore reluctantly to relinquish the projejct of
making inquiries in the Panjab itself. The reader
will judge then of rny surprise and gratification at
receiving from the Malui Raja an invitation to pay
him a visit at Lahor! lie had heard of me and of
our English school through his Vakil at Lodiana ;
and with his invitation he made a proposal that I
should sj>cnd six months of the year at his capital,
to take charge of the education of a numl)fir of the
young Sikh nohlemen, the sons of chiefs. I should
have been delighted to have accepted this proposal,
if the slate of iny health would at all have justified
my living on the plains ; it presented a fine prospect
of obtaining a standing and influence, which would
have been invaluable to a missionary. And in re-
flecting on the past, I have been disposed to regret
that 1 had npt consented at whatever risk ; but the

144

TOUR TO L4H0R.

physician’s advice was imperative. I must repair to
the hills on the approach of the hot season, as the
only means of preventing another attack, which in
the warm season would probably prove extremely
dangerous, if not fatal. 1 was constrained therefore
to decline the proposal, and as the invitation was
connected with it, I much feared that my declining
the one would prevent a renewal of the other,
though in acknowledging the honor of the invitation,
I expressed myself as anxious to be permitted to
come and pay my duty to “ the great King.”

The invitation was repeated, and the visit to
Labor was shortly afterwards made. Of this tour 1
took notes at the time, which will serve to give a
better view of the condition of the Panjdb, than I
could present in any other form.

January 28, 1835. — Agreeably to an arrangement
previously made, I set out this afternoon on the
journey to Labor. An elephant had been sent from
that city, to carry the tents ; and another which the
Maha Rajah keeps at Lodiana, was assigned for my
use to ride. The latter is a noble animal, being nine
or ten feet in height. On his back is placed the
Howdah, a kind of buggy-like frame, but without a
hood, and having two seats. The front one is
richly ornamented, with silk cushions, of a yellow
color, the favorite color of the Sikhs ; and affords
sufficient room for two persons. Behind it is a
lower seat for a servant, either for parade or to hold
an umbrella when necessary. The driver sits on

TOUR TO LABOR.

145

the neck immediately before the howdah, while one
or two assistants run by the side of the elephant,
carrying goads, or iron slicks, to guide the animal
or quicken his pace. The motion is not a pleasant
one to persons not used to it. He goes at a kind of
walking gait, as if trampling on round stones, and
apparently so much at his leisure as to lead one to
think he was making little progress. In truth, how-
ever, the horsemen in company, of whom there are
ten assigned as guards, are obliged to amble along
(for the Hindus seldom trot) four or five miles an
hour, to keep up with him.

Before mentioning the elephants and the horse-
men, I should have introduced the Persian Munshi,
or Secretary, who goes with me as interpreter.
He is a Mussulman Hindu, who has acquired a
pretty good knowledge of our language at the Eng-
lish College at Delhi. He will be of great use to
me ; as, in addition to the knowledge of the lan-
guage, he is acquainted with the customs of the
people, and his pleasing manners render him not un-
acceptable as a companion.

There are no hotels in this country ; so that in
travelling it is necessary to take everything along
that is needed for cooking, sleeping, &c. And such
is the division of labor among different castes, who
will not do anything but what pertains to their own
class, that it requires no small number of men to
form an establishment. Thus, our present company
amounts to about sixty persons, including myself.

146

TOUR TO LAHOR.

munshi, horseguard, and our respective domestic
servants, with tent-pitchers, attendants for the ele-
phants, horses, &c. Large as this number appears
to be, 1 have the satisfaction of knowing that it is
smaller than the attendance 6f most European tra-
vellers in the Panjab.

Crossing the Nallah, or moderate sized stream, of
clear beautiful water, which flows almost half round
Lodiana, our road led through fields of grain, cover-
ing the level sandy plains with a carpet of green.
We passed two or three small, ill-looking villages,
where the mud-houses of the people, their cattle, and
their grain, were all jumbled closely together, and
surrounded by a low clay wall. At five or six miles’
distance, wc came to the river Sutlej. The water
flows along in a naked channel through the sandy
jilains, which characterize this part of India. There
are a great many shoals, or sand-banks, in the chan-
nel, which make their appearance at this time of
year ; yet in the main channel there is rather a
strong current, and about ten feet depth of water.
During the rainy season, the waters of this river are
spread over the country two or three miles in
breadth. Formerly, it ran past Lodiana, where the
Nallah now runs ; but it forsook that channel some
fifty years ago — an occurrence which one may sup-
pose would not be un frequent, as the water receives
a rapid iinpulse in the mountainous regions, and the
sandy soil of the plains opposes but feeble resistance
to its progress. The ancient name of this river was

TOUR TO LABOR.

14T

Satudar, whence Hesudrus. It is the most eastern
of the five rivers from which the name Panjab* is
derived, and forms the boundary on the east of that
part of India. After continuing its course forty miles
from this place, it receives the Bias, the. ancient Hy-
phasis, the second river of the Panjab, counting from
the east ; and thence, the united stream is called the
Gharra. At Uch, lower down to the southwest, the
river formed by the other three rivers of the Panjab
joins the Gharra ; and thenceforward, the name is
Panjnad, which falls into the Indus at Mithon Khot.
We crossed the Sutlej at a town called Filor, on
the opposite bank, where there is a fort of some
strength, garrisoned by one hundred and fifty men,
and a population of six or seven thousand persons,
chiefly Mussulmans. Here we encamped for the
night on the open plain near the town.

January 29. — We started this morning at 7^
o’clock, and came to Paghwarah, ten kos, or about
thirteen miles. The road led us past six or seven
villages : some of them large, containing probably
two or three thousand inhabitants each. Many others
were in sight, and several had small forts, of no great
strength. Paghwarah contains probably fifteen thou-
sand inhabitants. The houses and public buildings
make a better appearance than is usual in cities of
India, a larger portion of them being of brick than
is common. The people are chiefly Hindus ; the
Mussulmans have two mosques ; and there are two

* From two India word?, panj five ; and dh water.

148

TOITR TO LAHOR.

or three hundred Sikhs. So we are informed by the
chief man of the town, himself a Sikh. There are
a few Persian and Sanscrit schools at this town,
attended by a few scholars each. The chief trade
of the people is in the common white sugar of the
country. The fort presents a formidable appearance
at a distance. We did not go near enough to examine
it closely.

In the afternoon, a company of Nach girls came
to the place where our tents were pitched on the
plain, wishing to exhibit their skill in dancing, in order
to obtain a present. There were about twenty of
them, attended by two or three men with instruments
of music. All were unveiled, and were dressed in
their richest finery. Nearly all were quite young,
probably not more than ten or eleven years of age.
As I did not wish to give them any encouragement,
they went away apparently much disappointed.

This class of girls is to be found in all the large
towns and cities of India. Their profession, from
which they receive their name, is that of dancing
and singing ; in which they are employed at all
feasts and joyous occasions. The Hindus consider
such amusements very disgraceful in themselves ;
though they take great delight in witnessing the per-
formance of others. These poor girls are universally
of disreputable character; and their number and
style of dress afford one of many proofs, that impur-
ity extensively prevails among this people. It is
said that their songs and dancing are often very
indecent. This general subject is a painful one to

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149

every Christian mind, and requires the veil of silence
to be drawn over most of its aspects. Yet it would
be a want of faithfulness in missionaries not to advert
to it at all ; as thereby one of the most prominent
evils of Heathenism would fail to be rightly under-
stood. If any of the views, however, which may be
presented, admit minuteness of statement and call
for .peculiar concern, it is the aiTecting truth that the
great majority of this class are so very young. It
not only shows that they are early initiated into the
grossest vice, but. that their course in it is brief.
Soon they are discarded, wander about as beggars,
and perish miserably.

January 30. — Jalandar, about thirteen miles. We
started at six o’clock. The morning was cold
and frosty, the thermometer standing at 32° in the
open air. We passed two large villages, and saw
several others at a short distance ; from one part of
the road, no less than six, ail of them but four or five
miles apart, and connected together by the greenly
covered field of grain. At one of them there is a
large mosque.

The appearance of villages in the northern parts
of India is almost everywhere the same. If rising
ground can be obtained, they are placed on the
highest part ; which however, is seldom more than
a few feet elevated above the vast surrounding
plains. The houses are almost always built of clay
or mud, as is the wall which commonly incloses the
town. There is greater neatness and cleanliness in
the interior of these villages than a person would

150

TOUR TO LABOR.

expect to see ; but on the outside of the walls there
is much to offend more senses than one. I have
often been reminded of the expression in Revela-
tion, “ without are dogs.’* These animals are by no
means held in such estimation in this country as
among western nations. Many of them run wild,
or unclaimed by any owner ; and often they may be
seen, half-starved, sneaking, and stupid in their
appearance, preying on the filthy, putrid matters that
are thrown over the walls.

The cultivated plains over which we are travelling
are said to yield two crops in the year ; the first, of
wheat and barley, sown in November, and reaped in
April ; the second, of different kinds of a native
grain, generally called dal^ sown or planted in July,
and gathered in October. The seed of the dal is
used by the natives for food, and the stalks make
fodder for the cattle. The wheat and barley seem
to be cultivated with great care. Often it is planted
in rows a few inches apart ; and frequently the seed
has been so deposited as to spring up in bunches or
clusters of two or three stalks each.

Before reaching our stage to-day, we met a string
of sixty or seventy camels, loaded with salt. They
travel in “ Indian file,’" a cord being attached either
from the crupper or tail of the first, to the nose of
the second, and so on. The salt is brought from
Dadal Khan ka Find, a place on the other side of
the Jilum, upwards of one hundred miles from Labor
to the northwest. There is a range of salt hills, in
which, at some distance and partly descending, the

TOUR TO LADOR.

151

salt is found in solid mass of a reddish color. It
is dug with sledges and hammers, and exported to
all parts of the Panjab ; yielding a revenue at the
mines, it is said, of more than a million and a half
of rupees.

Jalander, in the vicinity of which our tents are
pitched to-day, is a large, substantial looking city.
It was formerly the residence of the Lodi race of
AfTghan kings, from whom the town of Lodiana
takes its name, who have left many traces of their
having made this place their home. It is surrounded
by a high wall, partly of brick with bastions, and
partly of clay, — has a large fort, and many brick
houses. The population is said to be forty thousand ;
chiefly Hindus, with some Mussulmans and a few
Sikhs. The country is highly cultivated, and in the
immediate vicinity are numerous gardens, mango,
pomegranate, orange, and rose trees. Our tents are
near three large tombs, erected to perpetuate the
names of former kings. But their remembrance has
passed away, and their memorials are fast sharing
the same lot, being in a very ruinous condition. I
estimated the smallest one to be forty feet square,
and twenty-five to the commencement of the dome.
The other two are larger, and of different structure ;
but are also surmounted by domes. This circum-
stance is proof itself of the Mussulman faith of their
builders. They seem to be very fond of this kind
of structure, probably because it forms so large a
part of the ornamental roofs of their sacred temple
at Mekka. l^hey place domes, in this country, on
3

152

TOUR TO LABOR.

the tops of nearly till their mosques ; usually three ;
and on their tombs and other public buildings. .

In the afternoon, the Thanadar, or Governor of
the city, came to pay his respects to me. He was
attended by several of the chief men, and a crowd of
guards with long spears, making a little forest of
sharp points over their heads. I was indebted for
this mark of respect to my character as an English-
man, for such they think I am, and to my travelling
through the country at the Maha Rajah’s invitation.
The custom is for inferiors of respectability, in
approaching a person whom they regard as superior,
to offer a rupee or two on the folded corner of their
mantle. This was done this afternoon ; but I think
it best, after recognising their civility, to decline
receiving the present. It is only meant as a matter
of form. After making some inquiries, I distributed
tracts to those among them who could read ; which
were accepted with many thanks ; chiefly, I suppose,
because they look on me as their superior, so that it
is a mark of favor from me. I am thankful, that
this adventitious dignity will probably secure a
careful perusal of these silent messengers of salva-
tion.

January 31. — To Kaphurtalah, twelve miles.
Soon after starting this morning, we passed two of
the twelve pakkd villages which belong to the city of
Jalaiider. Their houses and walls are all built of
burnt bricks, whence the name pakka, which gives
them a very superior appearance to that of many
Hindu villages. None of them are more than five

TOUR TO LABOR.

153

miles from the city. The district of Jalandar, includ-
ing, the city, is farmed for its revenue by a Sikh
chief, who pays two hundred thousand rupees annu-
ally for the privilege to Ranjit Singh. When we
got within a mile of our halting place, we were met
by a vakil, or kind of ambassador, of the Chief of
this part of the country, mounted on an elephant, and
accompanied by eight or ten foot soldiers with their
muskets, who presented arms as a salute, and then
went before us, the vakil riding by our side. For
this mark of respect we may thank, partly the cir-
cumstances under which I make the journey, and
partly the custom of the country. We were con-
ducted to a large, and for this country a well-built,
dwelling in a garden, some distance outside of the
walls of the city, where the Chief wished me to take
up my quarters.

Fatteh Singh, the Sarddr, or Chief of Kaphurtalah,
is one of the most powerful of the Sikh chiefs, hav-
ing a revenue of about seven lakhs of rupees, or three
hundred and fifty thousand dollars. He was formerly
an independent prince, but was obliged to become a
feudatory of Ranjit Singh, after being deprived of a
considerable portion of his territories. Part of his
possessions lie in the district of country between the
Sutlej and the Jumna, under British protection.
The population of this town, where he lives most of
the time, is probably about ten thousand persons ;
chiefly. Hindus, with some Mussulmans, and a few
Sikhs. It is a new town, and is apparently increas-
ing .with muph rapidity. Some of the public build-

154

TOUR TO LAHOR.

ings are large and not deficient in Hindu taste. The
most singular and extensive is a temple to Siva,
erected for the Hindus by the Cliief, himself a Sikh.
It has a lofty pagoda-like structure at each corner of
a square, and a similar building in the centre of
larger dimensions. These pagodas are from thirty
to fifty feet high, with many gilded short spires
shooting up from various projections. In the after-
noon, the wind was very high and from the east.
The thermometer stood in the open air at 40°, 101°,
and 50°, at sunrise, noon, and sunset. At noon it
stood at 61° in the shade.

February 2. — Yesterday I went to see the Chief,
and had much conversation with him and his attend-
ants. He is rather under the middle size, has an
intelligent countenance, dresses plainly — much more
so than his sons, and all his remarks evinced strong
good sense, though not much cultivation of mind.
I was struck with the frank, unceremonious, yet
respectful manner in which ail seemed to address
him. It wore something of a patriarchal aspect,
which the grave countenances and long beards of
the people rendered the more dignified. It was
interesting, also, to see Sikhs, Mussulmans, and
Hindus, mingled among the chief men of this court,
in the same manner as the mosques and temples of
these sects are seen standing in the same streets of
the town. I should think it very probable, that in a
few years a branch of our mission might be esta-
blished here under promising prospects. Even now,
I think the Sardar could be persuaded to grant hie

TOUR TO LAHOR.

155

protection, if not his influence ; and especially if an
English school were undertaken.

Our halting place to-day is at Bahrowal, fourteen
or fifteen miles from Kaphurtalah, on the opposite
bank of the Bias, the second river of the Panjab from
the east. The Bias is here a pretty stream of about
one hundred yards in breadth. The eastern bank
is low, and covered with a deep fine white sand, for
a mile from the water. The other bank is bolder,
and is probably thirty feet high. The town of Bah-
rowal stretches along the western bank for two or
three miles ; but does not contain more than five or
six thousand inhabitants, who are chiefly Hindus.
It is a kind of landing-place for rafts of timber, which
are brought down the river in the rain)’^ season.
But it does not present the appearance of a thriving
business place ; rather it appears to be on the decline.
As usual, there are no schools, and but few persons
who can read.

February 3. — To Jandyala, fourteen miles. The
country, to-day, has the same general appearance
that we have noticed on former days — level, sandy,
destitute of trees, stones, houses, or anything to
break the uniformity of the landscape. There were
occasional fields of fine wheat, and a few villages
looking as uninteresting as usual. The fields have
now commonly a low brier fence around them. One
is ready to wonder at the richness of the grain on so
sandy a soil ; but the soil is rather a loam, much
sand being intermingled with clay, which becomes
very produotive when water can be applied to

156

TOUR TO LAHOR.

irrigate it. To obtain water for this purpose, the
Persian wheel is commonly employed.

To-day, as on former days, w'e met a number of
Cashmerkins, emigrating from their beautiful native
valley, in search of employment. Through famine
and oppression, the valley of Cashmere is said to be
now almost deserted ; containing probably less than
one hundred thousand inhabitants, and yielding no
revenue at all, where, some years ago, it is said,
forty lakhs, or four millions of rupees, were collected.
These emigrants look very wretched, being ragged,
dirty, and often bare-headed, which in this country
indicates much deeper poverty than to be bare-
footed in western countries. They carry with them
a few utensils for cooking, and sometimes a stnall
bundle of ragged clothes. The men have usually
fine, intellectual looking countenances, and are
rather small in stature. The women may rank in
their appearance among the poorer classes of emi-
grants from Europe to America, and have frequently
good faces and fine eyes, though not so remarkable
for beauty as some writers represent. They are a
very industrious people, and are now to be found at
nearly all the large towns in this region of India,
employed in manufacturing the various fine fabrics
for which their valley is celebrated.

Jandyala presents rather a good appearance, many
of the houses being built of brick. It is always diffi-
cult to form a correct estimate of the population of
a Hindu town. There are seldom any well ascer-
tained statistics, never any records, and*the natives

TOUR TO LAHOR.

157

differ widely in their guesses. One informant stated
the inhabitants of this town at thirty thousand. It
probably contains about one third that number;
chiefly Hindus of the Kshatriya caste, one of the
most respectable orders of the community. There
are, however, no schools of any kind, and few are
able to read. Those who wish to have their chil-
dren taught to read and write, send them to Amritsir.
There is a brick fort in the immediate vicinity of
this town, the walls of which are probably twenty or
twenty-five feet high. It is smaller than one or two
others we have seen, that were built in the same
style. Scarcely any of them would hold out for any
length of time against European artillery. Some of
them would tumble down at the first discharge. Yet
others display considerable acquaintance with mili-
tary science, having the same array of bastions,
ramparts, port-holes, ditches, drawbridges, &c., that
are common in European fortifications.

February 4. — Our ride this morning presented
nothing worthy of particular notice. The fields of
grain were more scattered than we observed on for-
mer days, and large tracts of land were lying waste.
Two or three large villages on the road -side, and
some others at a distance, had the usual appearance.
When we had made about half our march, we saw
several lofty columns rising from the city of Amritsir,
distant five or six miles. We soon reached the city,
and found our tents pitched in a garden outside of
the wall, at the north end. This is one of the largest
cities in the.north of India, as the population is sup-

158

TOUR TO LAHORE

posed to be upwards of one hundred thousands It
has the higher recommendation of being a city not
on the decline, but of increasing prosperity. It is
the emporium of the Panjab,, and the chief mart of
the fine fabrics of Cashmere, and yields a revenuey it
is said, of five hundred thousand rupees, which is
paid to the Maha Rajah by the Chief, who has the
farming of its collection ; so that the entire sum is
probably much greater.

Like Benares among the Hindus, Amritsir is the
Sikh Athens and Jerusalem, being the chief city of
learning and religion. The cause of its celebrity is
undoubtedly the Sacred Reservoir, said to have been
formed by Guru Ram Das about the year 1575. It
has been once or twice profaned by Mohammedan
conquerors, yet has still been regarded with the
utmost veneration. It is the chief place of resort of
the Sikh pilgrims, and has many daily devotees, who
think their worship becomes highly meritorious by
being performed at so sacred a place. Rajahs have
vied with each other in the richness of their offerings
for its decoration ; and the number of learned Sikhs,
who live in the cloisters around its pavement, and
in the booths on the margin of its waters, to explain
the sacred book, the Granth, is so large, as to diffuse
almost a literary atmosphere over the place of devotion.

I went to see the reservoir, though some dan^
ger attended the visit. There are always present
many of the Akalis, a kind of desperate fanatics,
who fear not God nor man. I found a large square
court, paved with bricks along the four sides, which

Voutt TO LA Holt.

I5d

form what may be termed the wharves of the sacred
Water. Along the outside of the pavement there is
a range of buildings with open doors or windows,
facing the reservoir ; and the numerous shady trees,
which are growing in the pavement, make the walk
agreeable, and are in good keeping with the serious
character of the place. The pool of water is about
one hundred yards square, and is probably ten or
twelve feet deep. It is supplied by a small canal,
brought from the river Ravi, at about thirty-five
miles’ distance. In the midst of the water stands a
small, but neat temple, covered over with neat gild-
ing, and connected with the pavement by a cause-
way at one side. At the north side there is a large
and richly decorated temple to Guru Govind Singh,
near which is planted a lofty flag-staff, covered with
gold cloth. Both of these are objects of great vene-
ration. At the edges of the pavement next the
water are sundry small booths, or little buildings,
open at one side, and containing little else than a
Granth and a Guru, a Sikh Bible and a Sikh priest.

A number of boys accompanied us in our walk
around, and behaved very insolently ; as did some
beggars ; so that I was not sorry to see an additional
guard of policemen, and soon after a company of sol-
diers, who were sent by the chief of the police, and by
the Governor of the city, to prevent any person from
offering me insult or violence. It is usual for visitors
to make an offering of money to the Granth that is
kept in the Gilt Temple. I declined compliance,
as it would have been wrong to do so, but softened
8 *

160

TOUR TO LAUOfli

the matter as much as I could by ordering a feW
rupees to be given to the numerous beggars. This
measure was far from being satisfactory to the
devotees.

No religious place that I have seen in India, not
excepting the religious places of Benares, seems to
me as well adapted to impress the minds of the
deluded worshippers with devotional feelings. Nor
do I recollect any so pleasing in its whole appear-*
ance, nor in which there is so little to offend good
taste. It is a place where a Christian would love to
see temples to the living and the true God; and
where he would be delighted to observe the counte-
nances of the crowds of worshippers reflecting love
and Christian peace, instead of Pharisaical and
desperado hauteur*

In the everting the Sardar or Chief of this district,
Lehna Singh, paid a visit, ostensibly to the garden
grounds where the tents were pitched, but really to
see the “Padri Sahib.” He is a very sensible and
thinking man. In tlie course of the conversation, ho
adverted to the almost atheistical principles or rather
want of principles, which most Europeans of his
acquaintance manifested. Seeing a thermometer
and a compass lying on the table, he soon showed
that he perfectly understood the uses of each, and
wished to know why the magnet always pointed to
the North. He referred to the healing effects of
some kind of metals when applied to different parts
of the body, as an instance of European science ;
and asked for the reason. I saw that he had heard

TOim TO LAIIOlt.

101

Something about the “metallic tractors” which were
so famous in France towards the close of the last
century, and explained to him their history. He
then inquired about the extent of my studies ; and
finding 1 had paid some attention to Geometry, men-
tioned that he had an instrument which he did not
know how to use, and asked me to explain the mode.
Making a sketch of it with a pencil, it proved to be
a quadrant, which he afterwards sent to me by one
of his most intelligent men. The Sardar wished to
know the mode of taking the longitude and latitude
of a place, and what instruments were necessary,
and wherein they differed from each other. He ad-
verted to spires of buildings becoming magnetic after
some years’ exposure ; and also remarked, that iron
which had been some years exposed to fire often be-
comes magnetized. He mentioned seeing the stars
in daylight, when in the valleys between mountainsi
as a parallel example to a remark I had incidentally
made about seeing them from the bottom of wells ;
and, in the interview, asked many questions about
these and other subjects, evincing both thought and
observation, as well as a judicious mind; while
there was but little shading of vanity in his manner,
or disposition either to value himself on account of
attainments so unusual among his countrymen, or to
make a display of them to others.

I was highly gratified with the scientific part of
the interview ; but regretted that religion did not
form a more prominent part of the conversation.
On. proposing to present him with a Gurmukhi Tes-

100 ifovt TO tXfiotf.

tament, I found that he already possessed one ; and
the atteinpt I made to introduce religious topica
through that door was prevented by the questions
already referred to. However, the latter may pre-
pare the .way for the former. Lehna Singh is a
middle-aged man, of mild but dignified manners ;
and greatly beloved, I understand, by his subjects.*
He aids the Maha Rajah, when necessary, with a
quota of troops. His oWn reventres are said to be
about three hundred thousand rupees per year.

February 5. — To Jangri ka Phul, fourteen koar, or
twenty miles ; for 1 have come to the conclusion
that the kos in this part of India is nearly, if not
altogether, equal to one and a half English miles.
The general face of the country is more than usually
barren, though there were many villages and nume-^
rous karil trees. Our station to-day is in the vicinity
of the village already named, which is not very large.

Thermometer at three P.M. in the shade, 60°. A
newly raised regiment is encamped in our vicinity.
They master about eight hundred men^ They are
commanded by an Englishman. There are three or
four Englishmen, as many Frenchmen, and one
American, in Ranjit’s service. Chiefly by the aid
of one or two of the French officers, a large part of
his army has been trained according to Etn-opean
tactics.

VotJt fO liABOK.

m

CHAPTER XI.

i^OVti Tcr LAHOR RANjif SINGH;

fteach Labor — Visits of two fakir courtiers — Interview with the King
— Conversations with the fakirs — Invitations to see dancing girls
declined — Mussulman version of David’s repentance — Appearance'
of Labor — An armed Maulavi.

February 0. — To Labor, eighteen miles. Froiirt
Amritsir to this city there is a gradual descent in
the plain, so that a canal, had been dug to supply
Labor with water from the canal which furnishes
that important element to the good people of Arnrit-
sir. This canal runs side by side with the road, but
is now dry ; and it is said another has been formed
for the same purpose. Labor bes rather south of
west from Amritsir. The intervening country ex-
hibits a more barren appearance than any other
part of the Punjab have seen ; though, owing
probably to the vicinity of the two cities just named,
the number of villages is greater. The soil is of
a hard, dark, sandy nature^ A few miles from'
Labor the whole scene changes, and the road passes
through an extremely fertile tract of country,
covered with luxuriant fields of wheat and fine
gardens, and adorned with beautiful mango and
tamarind tr^s. One of the gardens^ the SShalabagh,

164

TOUE TO LARGE.

is a mile by half a mile in extent, filled with orange^
pomegranate, rose* and other beautiful trees. This
tract is abundantly irrigated by means of numerous
Persian wheels.

At two or three miles’ distance, we entered the
ruins of the former city. A great many mosques,
temples, palaces, and tombs, are seen in every direc-
tion, and in every stage of dilapidation. Some are
almost entire ; but most are greatly injured. Of
some, the domes are yet unimpaired, while the pil-
lars which support them totter in every breeze, and
must soon share the common fate. These ruins are
very extensive ; so that Labor may be termed the
Delhi of the Panjab, if not in the magnificence, at
least in the extent, of the ruins of its former self.

The prc.sent city presents a good appearance at a
distance ; as it is compactly built, and has several
lofty towers, and many brick houses of considerable
height. We were conducted to an extensive gar-
den of orfinge trees, in which a French officer had
erected a large summer residence. This place has
been assigned for our lodgings, and is all that I could
wish ; as it is retired, and yet sufficiently near the
city, being about a quarter of a mile outside of the
walls.

In the afternoon, Nur Ud Din, one of the chief
men, brought the Ziafat, or present, with the addi-
tion of much profession about the good understand-
ing existing between the British government and
themselves. This I was prepared to expect. He is
a Fakir, or religious mendicant, though nothing in

tOt7R TO liAUOR.

166

his manner or appearance would indicate his pro*
fessidnal character. He made many remarks of a
religious kind ; but they were common-place and in-
definite in their nature. He introduced the subject
of an English school in a skilful manner; inquir**
ing successively, how I, who understood so little
of the native language, could teach the English to
natives ; how I should act, if diflerent pupils wished
to learn different branches, — who should decide.
The answers seemed to give much satisfaction, and
suggested another question. Which 1 think was the
chief object of his long interview, though he pre-
sented it as if it were a matter of no importance ;
“ If a Government established a school, who should
decide on the branches to be taught?” I answered,
“ The Government, certainly.” This was “ very
good,” he thought. I took care to add, however,
that if a Government should establish a school, it
would still be optional with persons proposing to
take charge of its instruction, to do so or not, as
they might approve or disapprove of its plan, to
which he assented. The whole conversation was as
abstract as if we had been sitting somewhere in the
region of the north star; but its bearing on the
points of interest here on the earth, and at Labor, is
sufficiently obvious.

Fakir Nur Ud Dirt is very much of a courtier j
perhaps I should say, of an eastern statesman, in his
manners — ^grave, cautious, cool ; yet abounding in
compliments, and apparently very self-complacent.
He has "a fine large forehead, good eyes, and greyish

166 i*ovk to tAtiOA.

beard ; he is about fifty years of age, and dresses
plainly.

February 7. — Last night a note came from Nut
Ud Din, apprising me that he had communicated the
Conversation at our interview to the Maha Uajah,
who expressed much satisfaction, drc. ; that his bro-
ther (the chief man here) would come to see me
to-day ; and wishing to know whether I would prefer
to pay my respects to the King to-day or to-morrow*

I sent an answer, that I would prefer going to-day ;
but would leave the Maha Rajah to decide.

To-day, Aziz Ud Din, the prime minister, called,
with a present from llanjtt Singh of pomegranates
and grapes ; and afterwards, oranges, &c. The
conversation was miscellaneous, and a little more of
a business character than yesterday. It turned,
however, chiefly on the friendship subsisting be-
tween the British and themselves, now known to all
the world, cementing the two nations into one,
causing them great joy to see the face of any Kuro-
pean. Then some in(|uiries about my health ; what
would become of the school at Lodiana, if I should
leave ; what had been the course of my studies ;
whether including military science, &c. Having
mentioned that 1 expected some friends to arrive, he
inquired very particularly both as to the time of
their coming and my probable leaving.

This Fakir, as Well as his brother, yesterday, paid
me some high and extravagant compliments ; chiefly
expressive of their great joy at seeing me, and the
great pleasure my conversation gave them. I have'

TOUR TO LAIIOR.

167

every reason to think they were perfectly meaning-
less, if not insincere ; yet an instance or two will be
amusing. Yesterday, the Fakir said ; “ The bud of
my heart (that is, my dearest bud), which was shut
up, has been opened by the wind of your conversa-
tion into a fine flower.” To-day, at taking leave, the
Fakir, in expressing his great happiness at having
the interview, said, that, “ I was like a treasury of
precious jewels, which he could not obtain,’* refer-
ring to my not being able to communicate tlie know-
ledge to him wdiich he supposed I possessed. I was
quite at fault when he referred to “ an ancient tradi-
tion about the philosopher’s stone which converted
everything into gold ; but if even a leaf intervened
between the stone and the material to be changed
into gold, then the latter received little benefit.** At
first, I thought the remark was intended as a display
of learning; but saw presently that it was a further
compliment in reference to the dilliculty of commu-
nicating by an interpreter. 'J'his Fakir is a very
dilTerent looking man from his brother. ITis coun-
tenance indicates distrust and suspicion, yet much
sagacity, ilis conversation was marked with good
sense, less disjday, and a more direct “coming to the
point,** than that of his brotlicr. He has evidently
been much in intercourse with the world ; and I
detected him scrutinizing my countenance wdth an
almost embarrassing closeness. He is about of mid-
dle stature, dresses very jdainly, and wears a full
beard, dyed blue by w'ay of ornament.

February ^ — -We went, about 8 o’clock, to pay

168

TOUR TO LAIIOR.

our respects to the Maha Rajah. lie was seated in
an open hall, on the highest ground in the inclosure
where his [jalace is erected, and was surrounded by
about a dozen of his chief men, all dressed very
richly, and sitting on rich crimson cushions. After
being seated on the floor like the rest, and e.xchanging
the usual compliments, I pre.sentod the English Rible
and Gurmukhi Pentateuch which 1 had brought with
rnc for that ])urposc. He then asked, without
any further introduction, “ Where is God “ It
would be as easy to answer the (jucstion. Where
is he not “ Well, if you don’t know where God
is, how can you worship him?’ Inferring from
what 1 saw, that it was their intention to make a
trial of my skill in such subjects, I answered more
fully: “We do know that God is everywhere pre-
sent; though he specially reveals himself in heaven ;
that he can se(*> us, though we cannot see him ; and
that he has ma<le known in his holy word (pointing
to the Rihle I had presented), how we should wor-
ship him.” 1’lie answ<*r appearetl very satisl’actory.
“ What precepts has God given in his word ?” I
mentioned the two great commandments ; which also
gave much satisfaction. “ Hut what will he done to
those who disobey his commandments ?” “ God

will punish them with eternal sull'ering in the next
world.” “If so, why do rulers punish men who
commit murder, for instance, in this world ?” “ Rulers
are appointed by t«od to punish in this world many
kinds of wickedness; but all will have to give an
account, in the next world, to God, both rulers and

TOUR TO LAHOR.

109

subjects.” He inquired if that was so written in our
Scriptures. I took occasion, then, to mention that
‘‘Christians believe that they may avoid the suflering
in the next world which is due to all men for sin,
by trusting in the Lord Jesus Christ.” The ques-
tions proposed subse(juenlly did not appear to bo
intended as a trial of my ability to answer tliem ;
but rather to be prompted by Sikh curiosity. Hav-
ing in(juired about my learning, and wliether it
included military and medical branches, he made
some iiKpiirics about his interview with the Governor
General two or three years ago at Kupar. Then lie
inquired about my acquaintance with horses ; and
rising from his cushion he led the way to an outer
hall, wlierc being again seated, he asked further ques-
tions about my health; whether married ; why I wore
crape on my liat ; why I wore spectacles, &c., to all
which I gave briefly the projier answers. Then, telling
me that the Fakir would come to see me, and to talk
about other subjects, permission was given to take
leave.

Fehruan/ 9. — Yesterday afternoon, Faki'r Aziz
Ud Din came again to .sec me, and two boys j)re-
senlly arrived, wisbinir to study Knglish under my
direction while I remain here. They arc the sons
of one of the chief ministers. Before they came,
the Fakir, incjuiring about the books lying on the
tt'ible, wished to hear me read out of the Cireek Tes-
tament. I turned to the latter part of the third
chapter of John’s Gospel, and read the distinct testi-
mony there given to our Saviour’s mission. Polite

170

TOUR TO LAllOR.

as the Fakir was determined to be, his Mussulman
prejudices would not allow him to say “ durust,
khub^’ (good, excellent), to all that was read ; though
he did not manifest the opposition I expected. I had
an opportunity of explaining the sense in which
Christians hold the doctrine of Father and Son, in
the Trinity, which is so very offensive to the
Mohammedans, partly because they understand our
creed in the sense those terms convey in regard to
human relations. Afterwards, I read the apostle's
glowing and sublime account of the resurrection,
1st Corinthians xv. ; with which he was much pleas-
ed. The more I see of this man, the higher my
opinion rises of his talents and address. There is a
sound of sincerity also in his voice, which is pleasing,
even though one cannot trust it, because contra-
dicted by the sinister expression of his eye.

In the afternoon to-day, it was announced that
the Bara Fakir," the chief Fakir, was coming ;
and presently the news was brought, that he had
sto))ped to say his prayers in the garden. About a
quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his appear-
ance, and told me himself that he had been to pray-
ers. I made some remark about that being a good
employment, which led to a long series of remarks
and quotations from the Koran, in Arabic, on the
subject of religion, as if he were determined to
inflict punishment for the Greek of yesterday. He
assented to an observation, that prayers should not
be made to be seen of men, and that they should be
from the heart, with much cordiality ; and went on

TOUR TO LAHOR.

171

to give illustrations, which were very appropriate.
He informed me at last that he was a Sufi Mussul-
man (nearly a freethinker in that sect), and believed
in all the prophets, Jewish, Christian, and Mussul-
man, to the number of many thousand.

One thing in which we both agreed was, that we
should not reason or dispute about anything that
God makes known for us to believe ; but should
receive it at once. I stipulated, however, that we
should exercise our reason to judge what God had
revealed, or what book contained his will. To this
he agreed after some demurring. I then wished him,
as he was a learned Mussulman, to tell me, in some
of his visits, why he believed the Koran to be the
word of God. The request was obviously not very
agreeable. However, he quoted, in a sort of singing,
or chanting tone, a long Arabic sentence from the
Koran about God, as our Creator, Preserver, &c. ;
and ended with telling me, that Mohammed had
challenged the Arabs to produce anything equal to a
chapter of the Koran, which he, though illiterate,
had spoken to them ; and, if they could not do so,
then they should believe in his mission. Thus the
Fakir argued for the divine authority of the Koran
from the excellence of its style ; but as I had previ-
ously obtained his consent to hear me explain the
reasons of our religious faith at some other time, I
deemed it best to waive argument on this occasion.

In the evening, a guard of forty soldiers was sent.
It would be useless to decline their service ; as it

172

TOUR TO LAHOR.

would be said they are necessary for the M aha Rajah’s
dignity, if not for mine.

February 11. — At an early hour to-day, the Maha
Rajah sent one of his officers to conduct me to pay
him a visit. He was encamped on the plain about
two miles from the city, preparatory to going on a
hunting excursion. A regiment of good looking men
were on guard, and a considerable number of fine
horses, in which Ranjtt takes great pleasure ; and
some elephants were also brought forward for pur-
poses of show. The tent, which w’as quite large,
was made of fine Cashmere shawls. In the Rajah’s
immediate presence there was no particular display
of stale on this occasion.

lie received me with much favor ; which I soon
perceived was owing not a little to his having heard
from his Envoy at Calcutta, that some of my friends
there, who are high in office, wished him to show me
kind attentions. It is almost amusing to see the
anxiety which pervades this court, to please the
English authorities. He made some remarks about
my having begged to decline accompanying him on
his hunting tour ; and promised to send for me, if he
should find any lions or tigers.

A few days ago, he had sent me an invitation to
be j)resent at a public entertainment; which I
accepted at first, but afterwards, on further reflec-
tion, I had desired to be excused from going, as I
learned that a part of the amusement was to consist
of the dancing of the Nach girls. The circumstance

TOUR TO LABOR.

173

was quite an awkward one, and I fear gave offence ;
but I feel glad to have been led to think of the
impropriety of being present, before it was too late
to draw back. To-day, a good many of his remarks
had an indirect reference to that circumstance. He
inquired particularly about our liberty to drink wine,
which was part of the amusement, and which, know-
ing the scruples of the Mussulmans, he may have
supposed to have been my real motive for declining.
However, I honestly explained, that our religion for-
bids all loose conduct in women, and also all en-
couragement of such conduct by men ; and that I
could not be present without thereby giving the
sanction of my influence to the shameful profession
of these girls. He said something about their per-
formance being in his presence, and not at my house,
and added, “ If you have not seen the Nach girls of
Labor, what have you seen The higher classes
in this country are passionately fond of witnessing
these dances. But J persisted in thinking that the
influence of my exarnjde would be the same in either
case, and in declining, with as good a grace as I
could, to see them. When he found I was firm, he
paid some compliments to rny consistency. 1 note
this circumstance the more readily, because it throws
some light upon the corrupt manners of tliis court,
and because I feel thankful at having had the oppor-
tunity of partially explaining the precepts of our
religion in regard to a vice which is so very common
in this dark land.

February 12. — Fakir NurUd Din to-day, remarked,

174

TOUR TO LABOR.

that in his religion their prayers were in Arabic,
according to certain forms; and wished me to tell
him about our forms of prayer. I mentioned that
we were required to pray with the understanding,
and therefore made use of a language which we
could understand ; and that our Sacred Scriptures
teach us how to pray, and what to pray for, but give
us few forms. After reading Matthew vi. 5-13, we
had a long conversation on religion, as to the mode
of obtaining pardon for sin. He urged that it was
only necessary to be sorry for it. I referred him
to the course of human justice, which mere sor-
row could not arrest, and explained to him our belief
in the atonement for sin which Christ has made,
lie then professed to believe in the Pentateuch, the
Gospels, and the Koran ; in Moses, Christ, and
Mohammed. I referred him to some of the points,
not only of difference, but of contradiction, between
the latter and the former ; especially, that the one
requires confidence in Christ Jesus, as Mediator
between God and men, and in no other ; while the
other requires the same confidence in Mohammed,
,and in no other, lie professed to believe them both !

February 15, Lord's Day . — The chief Fakir came
and spent two or three hours in conversation con-
cerning various important topics of religion. I was
glad to find that his brother and himself had been
talking the matter over since our last conversation ;
and this man, to-day, seemed anxious to show that
repentance for sin was sufficient in the sight of God
to secure its forgiveness. This he illustrated by

TOUR TO LAHOR.

175

quoting the example of David, in reference to the
sin against Uriah. 1 was amused at the appearance
of the narrative after its Mussulman transmigration :
“ David was at prayer, during whu^h it is a great
sin to think of anything else, when a very beautiful
bird appeared very near him. He was tempted to
try to catch it; but it hopped away further and further,
until it led him to the parapet of the roof, and then
. it flew away. But he was thus led to see the wife
of his prime minister bjithing herself, &c. Then,
after he was convinced of his sin, by means of a
quarrel between two men, one rich and the other
poor, about a camel, he fasted and wept at the tomb
of Uriah, until he obtained his forgiveness for some
unknown crime ; but God would not confirm the
pardon, unless he w^ould obtain Uriah’s forgiveness
for the crime, after making it known to him. Again
David fasted and prayed, and wept, for many, many
months, at the tomb, and at last God forgave him.’’
I turned to the simple and affecting parable of Nathan,
and rejid it, and also the verses in which punishment
was denounced — a part of the narrative which the
Mussulman account of the story omits. This
answered two purposes ; it showed one instance of
diflerence between the Koran and the Bible ; and it
showed that justice must be satisfied. The Fakir
saw the force of another remark, that we are always
under the highest obligation to love and serve God,
and therefore cannot, in future, atone for past sins ;
and exclaimed, “ Then, what must a man do who
has been an .infidel for twenty years? Must he

9

176

TOUR TO LAHOR.

always suffer punishment?” This gave me a fine
opportunity of mentioning the method of salvation
through the merits of Clirist. I illustrated these
remarks by a reference to my. own hopes, which
seemed to interest his mind.

In regard to the oneness of the Mussulman and
Christian systems, the great argument always is, that
God may give additional revelation, adapted to the
circumstances of different people. After pointing
out some essential points of difference, I stated that
God had made known that the Gospel was intended
for all men in all ages ; and therefore it implied a
reflection both on liis unchangeablencss and his
wisdom, as well as his truth, to admit the Mussul-
man system. He asked where it was expressly writ-
ten that it was intended always for all. I referred to
the commission given by our Saviour at the close of
the Gospel of Matthew, and also to the solemn
conclusion of the Bible in the last of Revelation.
It struck me as singular, that these Fakirs should
wish to claim a brotherhood for their system with
the Christian. Perhaps it is owing partly to infi-
delity as to any system, and partly to a wish to rank
respectably in the eyes of those whom they see to be
so much their superiors in other resi)ects, as Chris-
tians usually are.

At parting with this man to-day, I gave him three
tracts, and could not but feel grateful that my posi-
tion here is so regarded as to secure for them a
thankful acceptance, and probably a careful perusal.
This is one advantage of making this journey under

TOUR TO LAHOR.

177

these circumstances to balance some serious disad-
vantages, that it gives me access to some of the most
influential persons in the community. The Lord
bless the truth presented in this conversation ! The
congregation was small — the Fakir, one attendant,
and the interpreter ; but their souls are of infinite
worth, and their conversion would, in human view,
produce unspeakably important results.

February 21. — I have spent several afternoons in
“ sight-seeing/* visiting the principal public buildings
and places of interest. The first was a large mosque,
from the top of one of whose minarets there is an
extensive view of the city and country around. It
is in a bad state of repair, and contains nothing
worthy of notice, unless it be a kind of inlaying of
clay, resembling porcelain, and painted with bright
and very durable colors, as they still retain their
lustre, though upwards of two hundred years old.
Next day, we went to see the mosque built by the
great Akber, at the north extremity of the city. It
has three domes, faced on the outside with white
marble, and its four large and lofty minarets, faced
with a fine red sandstone, arc among the most con-
spicuous objects in the city. But now all is in a
state of ruinous decay, the whole place being used as
barracks for a company of infantry, who pile up their
arms in one of the holiest apartments of the mosque,
while they sleep in another. These minarets are
probably one hundred and twenty feet high.

The palace of Akber contains one tolerably good
hall of audience, open on three sides, supported by

178

TOUE TO LABOR.

graceful marble columns, and having a recess on the
fourth side for the royal seat — all on the same plan,
and nearly as good as in the palace at Delhi. But
in what a changing world we live ! In the hall where
suppliant princes once knelt in the great emperor’s
presence, Ranjtt now keeps picketed among the
marble columns some half a dozen horses ! There
are various apartments adjoining this hall of audience ;
some of them designed for the females of the Rajah’s
family ; others covered with paintings of Hindu gods
and goddesses. Among the paintings are two repre-
senting Ranjit as a suppliant, but standing before
Guru Nanak and Guru Govind Singh ; while another
is intended to represent his interview with Lord
William Bentinck at Rupar. The English people, in
the hands of the artist, have been made to present a
ridiculous appearance. The art . of painting is
obviously in a rude state among these people. But
these ctlbrts attracted many exclamations of “ good,
good,” from the attendants. The best parts of the
display of taste are the numerous jets d eau, to keep
the air fresh and cool.

In visiting these “lions” of the city, we usually
rode on an elephant, the best mode in such dirty
streets as we had to traverse. A sewer, containing
black, filthy mud and water, runs in the middle of
every street, threatening defilement, unless a person
is elevated too high to be spattered when a galloping
horse dashes along. The streets, moreover, are all
so narrow that two elephants cannot pass each other,
nor even a camel and an elephant, as we had frequent

TOUR TO LABOR.

179

opportunities of seeing, and sometimes at no little
expemse of patience, in waiting until the way could
be made clear. To meet a string of some twenty or
thirty camels, as we did one evening, is no very
agreeable matter to a person who may wish to lose
no time.

The houses are from three to five stories high, and
nearly all built of bricks that have been dug out of
the ruins of the old city. Their appearance, there-
fore, is quite in keeping with that of the streets.
They are built very densely together. The narrow
bazars are crowded, and the streets are full of people.
The \K)pulalion seems to be very great, and not to
be diminishing. The walls of the city, and its
mosques, and the fort, certainly do present the
appearance decay. But that seems to be owing
to the Maha Rajalfs neglect, lie takes more inter-
est in building up Arnritsir. The population of
Labor cannot be less than one hundred thousand ;
yet tin; present city is a mere village compared with
the ancient, if an o])inion may be formed from the
ruins of the latter. These extend four or five miles
in length, by three in breadth ; and even now,
upwards of fifty large mosques and other public
buildings remain, besides a great number of smaller
ones — all, however, in a ruinous condition.

Februari! 23. — IVj-day a respectable Maulavi
came to see me. He had a sword sticking at one
side of his sash, and a pistol at the other. In other
respects, his appearance was very pleasing, being a
middle-aged man, of an intelligent, lively countenance.

180

TOUR TO LAHOR.

I inquired how he accounted for the apparent change
in the spirit of Mussulmans, so that we now seldom
hear of force being employed to make converts ; and
also, how he justified the use of the sword in making
proselytes. The questions were rather difficult to
answer. However, he referred to the command of
God in the Koran ; thought the practice proper only
when the infidels refused to believe, after suitable
efforts had been made to convince them ; and con-
cluded with the usual remark, that it is not proper
to reason about God’s commandments. The latter
remark I, of course, assented to, when we know
what God has commanded, but not till then. I
explained to him our mode of advocating Christianity ;
adding, that, as to those who refuse to believe in
Jesus, we think it both their loss and their sin. For
the former, we pity them; and, as to the latter, wo
are not able to punish them as they deserve, but pre-
fer to leave them in the hands of God ; and then
asked, which plan he thought most honorable to the
character of God ? After approving our method, he
evaded expressing an ojiinion as to which is best.
On promising him the loan of a Testament, he took
leave. He says there are about a dozen Maulavis
in this city.

TUS PANJAB AND THE SIKH8.

181

CHAPTER XIL

IIANJIT sixth’s in XTIXc; EXCIJUrflON NOTES ON THE

PAXJAJl A XI) THE SIKHS.

l^cave La!i(>r the. huntiiijr j^rountl — IluntiniJ Company — Manner ot‘
ilo.spjitchiivjj business at Couif — Di.^inisMioii granted — Notes on the
Panjal) and tlie Siklit^.

February 28. — Ag;i’cc;ibly lo an arrangement made
within tlie last lew days, I left Labor this afternoon,
to join the Maha Rajah on his hunting ground.
Fakir Nur Ud Din came to conduct me out of the
city. We ha I soiuj conversation about the pro-
phecics contained in our Sacred Scriptures, which
gr(?w out of an inquiry of his about foretelling the
future by astrology. He wished to know what
would come to pass .Tccording to our prophecies.
After reft.*rring him to several that have been fulfliled,
1 read some pas.sages out of Isaiah concerning the
future projrivss of tin gospel. They appeared inte-
resting to him, though he did not express any opinion
about them. 1 could not but offer up a silent prayer
that we rn \y soon witness their fulfilment. After-
wanls, I gave him about a dozen of tracts, as a part-
ing gift ; with which he was pleased. We crossed
the Ravi about six miles to the southwest, and

182

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

encamped in the midst of wheat fields two or three
miles from the ferry. The waters of this river are
of a red muddy color. It flows here through a flat
country, and is about forty or fifty yards wide. The
fields of grain on its banks are full of promise.

March 1, Lord's Day . — We made no journey
to-day, though the halt was not so much to the satis-
faction of the people who were with me as on a
former occasion. Word has been received that a
tiger has been found, and they are anxious to reach
the hunting party so as to partake in the sport. The
Maha Rajah, too, would no doubt prefer my omitting
to observe this day ; but it is better to please God
than man.

March 2. — To Mahadevi, ten miles over a barren
heath, without any cultivation, or any production,
except a sort of desert grass and some stunted thorn-
trees. We learned, as we drew near the camp, that
the tiger had been killed yesterday, much to the
regret of the people with me.

In the afternoon 1 went with the Maha Rajah and
his people on their daily hunt. The company was
very singular in a])pearance to my eye, consisting of
several hundred men, in white, yellow, and red, and
often very rich, robes and uniforms ; some on ele-
phants, of which there were nearly thirty ; some on
camels ; many on all sorts of horses, from the very
finest to the most sorry ; and more still on foot, some
carrying guns, others swords, others sj>ears and
shields ; some leading dogs, others carrying falcons ;
and all this cavalcade in the midst of a barren plain.

THE PAKJAB and THE StKHE.

183

covered only with densely standing long grass, and
scrub thorn bushes. We took a circuit of several
miles, but started nothing except a few birds and
deer. There is no little enthusiasm of feeling on
such an occasion ; and I was not sorry to have the
opportunity of seeing this favorite sport of eastern
kings. I had some miscellaneous conversation with
the Rajah by the way, and more after our return.
Almost the only topic of importance was a state-
ment, on being asked if I had read the books of
different religious .systems, that the Christian religion
differed from others chiefly in teaching that all men
are sinners, and that Christ died to open the way for
pardon to be given ; and hence it is that we love
him so much. To all which, at the end of each
clause, the Maha Rajah gave his short but expressive
**thik*' — good. I was not sorry to find that my
declining to .see the dancing girls had been thought
about ; and it led to a question or two which gave
me the opportunity of stating the seventh command-
ment, and some other dutie.s.*

March 3. — To a vill.agc five miles east of Maha-
devi. While at the Court, after arriving, the Maha
Rajah transacted some business of an unimportant
nature. It was curious to see the half-business,
half conversational manner of their proceeding. A.s
each item was mentioned, something was said by
him cither of approval or alteration, which was
assented to by the courtiers seated around, who
hardly ventured even to make a suggestion ; while
onecdotes, remarks about different persons, queries

0 *

184

THE PANiAB AND THE BIKIIS.

to myself, &c,, occupied'’ so much attention, that only
the writers appeared to be employed in business.
They watched their opportunity, whenever there
was a lull in the miscellaneous talk, to read the
statement they were making. I had mentioned
during the ride, that if the Granth were a printed
book it would not cost more probably than twenty
rupees. This remark the Rajah repeated in court,
and it became the subject of a good deal of conver-
sation. A manuscript copy costs from one to two
hundred rupees.

March 4. — To the encampment between three
villages about four miles south of yesterday’s halting
place. The Maha Rajah set out in the morning
without sending me word of his movements. I was
not sorry to have the opportunity of declining to go
in the sun, and so refused to follow, until I should
be so inclined. This measure no doubt was not
gratifying to him; but I do not feel it to be a duty
to ride in the sun and dust among the crowd, when
so little seems now likeJy to be gained for my gene-
ral object.

March 5. — This afternoon I obtained my dismis-
sion. Previously the chief minister had informed
me of the Khilat, or present, that would be given ;
which, though customary on such occasions, was
yet on a much more liberal scale than I had expected.
The Maha Rajah was in high good humor when we
were present. 1 look opportunity to explain my
connexion with the Missionary Society, and, that
the presents he had been so kind as to give me,

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

185

would be made over to its funds. He listened with
a half-incredulous air ; but it occurred to mo to illus-
trate the matter by a reference to a rule of the East
India Company, requiring their servants to deliver
all presents that may be made to them to the proper
officer. With this rule he is well acquainted, and
the reference seemed satisfactory, but led to various
(fuestions about the Society : “ Is it a Government
Company ? What are its objects?” I explained the
manner in which funds were raised ; and that they
were given thus by religious people, to promote reli-
gion and education ; and also, that those who were
sent as mis.sionaries were influenced by religious
motives, receiving from these Societies merely what
was sufficient for their comfortable support ; adding,
that some of them might have received larger sala-
ries at home. This he evidently did not believe ;
but he seemed interested by the explanation ; praised
the conduct of the people in forming such a Society ;
wished to know if 1 would give them these presents ;
and added, that I must tell them, at any rate, that
he gave the horse (a fine Turkman pony) to myself,
not to the Society. When I had explained that the
Society was not a Government concern, he wished
to know about the padris, or clergymen, what con-
nexion they had with the Government. I explained,
that it was merely that of other citizens. What !
if a padri commits a crime, will they punish him
like another man !” “ Certainly.” This he deemed
wonclerful; and certainly it is very difibroiit from
the impunity with which the Akalis, the Sikh

186

Tftfi PAlfiA^ AVD ritz SIKH?/

devotees, commit the most disgraceful crimes hefe^

I could not but feel grateful for the difference. 1
iVas very glad to have the opportunity of making
this explanation in regard to these presents. It may
remove, in part, the impression that 1 am influenced
merely by selflsh and pecuniary views. But I fear
this impression will remain, notwithstanding, on the
minds of many of these people. On the whole, I
think it would have been better to have declined
receiving any of the presents, if it could have been
done without giving too much offence.

In the evening, the chief Fakir came to bid me
good-bye ; and afterwards the Rajah's chief Mun-^
shi, Kahan Chand, who has been with me, by the
appointment of Ranjit Singh, since leaving Labor.
The latter is a most respectable man, of clear, good
mind, and pleasing maniier.s, without the obsequious-
ness so common, and with much apparent sincerity.
I have become much interested in him. We had a
good deal of conversation, chiefly on religious sub-
jects. He inquired what was the appearance of
God, how we could think of him, &c. In reply, I
illustrated my remarks by referring to our own
spirits. He seemed interested in hearing of the
way our Sacred Scriptures teach that sin can be
pardoned, and also of the intellectual and social
elevation of the female sex in Christian countries.
He wished to know whether llieir advantages were
owing to our religion, or to our usage or custom. 1
told him of their condition when our forefathers
Were heathens. Expressing his warm wishes that

Tllfi PANiAB AVD THE SIKHS. 1^7

my health may be restored, so that I might remain
in this country, and he might become better
acquainted with me in future, kind feelings which I
sincerely reciprocated with my best wishes in return,
we exchanged our last farewelL I could not but
feel sorry at parting with these men. In many res-
pects, they are interesting men, whose acquaintance
I have been glad to make, and with whom my inter-
course has been of a varied and friendly nature.
But now wc have parted, most probably never to
meet again. What a precious hope Christian friends
enjoy when separated ! W'hatever be their path on
earth, they can look upw’ards to a place of meeting,
to say, Farewell, no more for ever.

The following summary views of the informa-
tion acquired during this tour w^ere communicated
to the Secretary of the Society, on returning to
Lodi an a.

1. Population . — It is not easy to form an estimate
that would be at all accurate. It is probable that
Uaiijit Singh’s rule extends over two millions of
])ersoiis ; of whom the greater part occupy the coun-
try bounded by the Sutlej, the Indus, and the Hima-
laya mountains, including the valley of Cashmere,
and the Hill States on the south-western sides of
those mountains from the river Sutlej to Cashmere,
llanjit has, within the la.st few years, made some
conquests on the western side of the Indus ; and
has,«at present, possession of Peshawer, one of the
chief AflTghan cities. It is doubtful whether he

18 B

THE PANJAB AND THE BlKHS.

will be able, or deem it expedient to retain these
conquests.

2. Climaie , — The name Panjab, pronounced as if
written Funjaub, in strict propriety, belongs only to
the plains; while a large section of the country,
descending from the Himalaya mountains, is quite
hilly. Both these regions, and also part of the region
south and east of the Sutlej, are classed by the older
writers under the general name of the Province of
Labor ; of which the population is said to be about
four millions. The climate of the plains is much
more oppressively hot during the warm season of the
year, that is, from March to November, than that of
the hills. The heat is probably as great as in almost
any part of Upper India; and there is the same
variation of seasons, as hot, rainy, (&c. In the cold
season the thermometer falls as low sometimes as the
freezing point, in the plains. Last winter, in which
there were some very cold mornings, the ihermome-^
ter, at Lodiana, was once down to 28 ’ in the open
air at sunrise. Lodiana is in nearly the same lati-
tude as Labor, and about equally distant from the
hills. Throughout this region, the hot winds begin
to blow in April, and are very trying to the health
of foreigners.

3. The spoken language seems to be

substantially that of the Hindus generally. It is,
however, called the Panjabi, and contains an admix-
ture of many Persian words. There are three or
four characters in use : the Persian, for the Persian
language, and also for the Hindustani; the Dev

THfi PANJAB AND TUB StKHS*

189

Nagari, for the Hindui, which differs but little from
the Hindustani ; the Gurmukhf, for the written lan-
guage of the Sikhs ; the Kashmiri, for the written
language of Cashmere. The two last characters are
obviously derived from the Nagari ; and I should
think the dialects, which receive these names, differ
but little from the common language of the Hindus.

4. Education. — It is not probable tliat one person
in every hundred is able to read. Of those wlio can
read, the four fifths, probably, read only the Persian.
A few of the Sikhs read the Gurrnukhl ; and a few
of the Cashmerians, perhaps, read Kashmiri ; though
I never met with a Cashnicrian who could read that
character, while I have met with several who could
read the Persian.

Of those who acquire a knowledge of the writ-
ten language, few learn anything beyond the sim-
plest rudiments. There are scarcely any books, and
there are none suitable for purposes of instruction.
The schools are very few, and under the worst ma-
nagement. Sometimes the teachers are paid by reli-
gious persons, or else, as is most common, are them-
selves religious ])erson.s, .such as Fakirs. Jn other
instances, a trifling sum is paid by each scholar.
No effort is made to develope the minds of the scholars.
Everything is learned by rote. In tlie Mussulman
schools, for higher scholars, one of the first things is
to teach the boy to read the Koran in Arabic, with-
out even pretending to teach him the meaning of a
single word. And this is considered rather a high
attainment. It is not uncommon for Hindu and

100

rut PANJAB AND *ril£ BtKHSi

Sikh pandits and gurus, and sometimes for the Mus-
sulman maulavls, to expound their respective sacred
Writings at the places of religious resort ; and thus
a species -of knowledge is learned by some of the
people. But in all the parts of India where I have
been, it is not unusual to see a religious man bawling
away without receiving the least attention ; though
he may be sitting in the most sacred place, and
reading, or rather chanting, their most sacred writ-
ings.

5. Gomrnment. — -Originally, the people were go-
verned by numerous chiefs, who were independent of
each other, though of very unequal power. These
chiefs were brought into subjection to Ranjit Singh,
who would no doubt have extended his power over
the chiefs on the south-eastern side the Sutlej also,
if they liad not applied for and received Knglish
protection. Some of the conquered chiefs Kanjit
removed allogelher from their j)ossessions ; others he
permitte<l to retain their districts, variously altered ;
but exacted from them a kind of tribute- — either a
quota of troops, or an animal payment in money ; or
in some cases both of these acknowledgments of
subjection. On the death of one of these inferior
rulers, further changes were often made ; though the
general usage is that the son shall succeed the father.
Frequently persons in favor are rewarded with tracts
of country in jns^hir, that is, for which they pay a
specified sum, and then have the entire management
of the collection of revenue, administration of jus-
tice, &c., in these particular districts. They may

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKIIS.

191

act as oppressively as they please ; and usually they
do extort as large an amount from the poor as they
can. It is very seldom that any appeal is made ; as
it would require too much money, in the way of
bribes to the courtiers, to bring grievances to the
notice of the Maha Rajah ; and as it would not bo
certain that redress would be obtained, even if a
hearing could be secured. It was very much owing
to the oppressive administration of one of these
favorites, or rather of his myrmidons, that the beau-
tiful valley of Ca.shmere has become so desolate.

This mode of government j)robably suits Ranjtt s
acquirements better than any other. As he can
neither read nor write, it would be troublesome to
examine the usual forms and records of proceed-
ings ; while now he holds com[)aratively a few per-
sons responsible for certain specified .sums. Yet it
is obviously liable to great abuse. Some of the
Sardars, or chiefs, have large revenues. One or two
have each about twelve lakhs of rupees yearly, ccjual
to six hundred thousand dollars; another, seven
lakhs , another five, &;c., but tlic greater part of
them are much less powerful. The chiefs are all
Sikh.s, I believe ; but many iiolders of jaghhs are
Hindus and Mussulmans. 'J'here seems to be no law
in the Punjab ; though there is, in regard to immy
things, long established custom. Jiy all accounts,
justice would seem to be regarded as a thing to be
bought and sold. Puni.shment, even for murder, is
said {<> be rarely inflicted, when a suflicient sum of

I92

THE PAN JAB AND THE SIKIlrf.

money can be offered by the criminal. Fines are
the most comniori punishment.

RanjU Singli is certainly a man of supcM’ior mind,
and of n'o ordinary character.’ All his measures, and
his conversation, evince great srgacity, prudence,
and acquaintance with the slnnig points of the sub-
ject under his consideration, lie is much superior
to maii v of the [jrejudices and Jealousies of the Hin-
dus, and seems aiixious to imitate those things in
the policy or the customs of other peojde which
are better than his own. Thus, he has introduced
amongst his ])eoplc, the manufacture of various
foreign imj)kMnL'nts of war, of several fabrics of
cloth, tStc. He has effected a striking change in the
military force of the 8ikhs. Formerly, every Sikh
was a horseman, and no other kind of force was in
existence than this nnh^ cavalry. Kanjit tot)k into
his service S(‘vcral French idlicers, and f(»llowcd their
advice after earel’ully comparing it with tlui Fiiiglish
mode of warfare ; and now he has a large ami jiretty
well organized and discijdined army of infantry,
with the usual proportion of artillery. He was, in
his younger days, of dissipated habits, the effects of
which he now feels severely. He is of a licentious
disposition ; foml (>f display, yet avaricious ; very
inquisitive ; inclined to pay a superstitious reverence
to holy men, even though of a different religion ;
passionately fond of fine horses; very anxious to
please the English ; blind of one eye ; about sixty-
three years of ago. What a confused account of
his character, you will be ready to say ! So it is ;

THE PANJAB AND THE S1KH3.

193

yet not more iTHscellancous than the character
itself.-

It is understood, that he is anxious his grandson
should succeed himself in the chief rule. But there
is no particular bond of union, excejding the personal
reputation and will of Kanjit himself, to prevent
the political affairs of the Panjab from relapsing into
their former anarcliy. The moment lianjit dies, it is
highly probable that all this region of country will
be in confusion, and a dozen of chiefs will declare
themselves inde])endent. Perhaps such a state of
things will then follow as will bring the Panjab under
British protection, and make the Indus, instead of
the Sutlej, the frontier line. Such a change would
be fraught with blessings to the j)eople.*

' (5. Religion . — The groat majority of the people of
the Panjab arc Hindus, es|)ccially those of the lower
classes. The Mussulmans are treated with less for-
bearance and favor than the Hindus ; and form, per-
haps, a fourth or fiftli part of tlic inhabitants. The
Sikhs are said not to constitute more than a twelftli
or fifteenth j)art of the pf)pulation. They evidently
are much more allied to the Himlus than to the Mus-

* This ruler has been called hence by death. Ilis ohjc(|Mic8 were
celebralc I with great parade and expeiiM*, and a dreadful tiagedy was
witnc.'»^ed in the self-immolation on iii.s fimernl pile of no ler*!* than
eleven women ! Four of his wives and seven toneuljines cast them-
sclve.i into the flames w'hich eoii.-uriK <I his body, and mi-eruMy per-
ished ! — 'I’he Punjab eonliimed f.»r kiiiio time, in a quiet f-talo under
his sons, who succeeded to the throne. Then followed a time of
imarchy ; then, the furious oiif-eis of the Sikh army against the British ;
and now, in 1850, the Pnnjnb is a part of British India.

104

TUB PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

sulmans in their worship, and in their customs. The
system of caste prevails, more or less, among all these
sects ; though in regard to the Sikhs and the Mus-
sulmans, it is not enjoined by their religion ; or
rather, it is contrary to their creed, especially to
that of the Sikhs ; but througliout India usage is ail-
povverful. It is supposed that this detestable system
has le.ss hold on the affections of the people in this
part of India, than in most other regions of the coun-
try. Hindus, when they become Sikhs, do not
renounce caste, except as it bears on one or two
inferior points. In the more important matters of
food, and of matrimonial connexions, they adhere
as rigidly as ever to the requisitions of their caste.

The Sikhs are divided into two general classes,
the Sikhs and the Singhs — the disciples and the
lions, as the terms literally import. The latter title
is given to the followers of CJiiru (rovind JSirigh, who
infused a military spirit into the Sikh religion. The
term Singh does not exclude, liowever, the use of
the common appellative, Sikh. It is rather employed
as one of the names of individuals ; while the title of
Sikh is given to all the followers of that religion.
There are some jjoints of diffei'ence in the faith of
tile two classics ; but they relute chiefly to the more
military spirit of the followers of Govind Singh.
Hamilton remarks in his Gazetteer:

“ The religion of tlic Sikhs is described as a creed
of pure deism, blended wdth the belief of all the
absurdities of Hindu mythology, and the fablcs^f
Mohammedanism.’ Naiiak Shah, the founder of this
religion, professed a desire to reform, but not to des-

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

195

troy the religion of the sect in which he was born ;
and endeavored to reconcile the jarring faiths of Brah-
ma and Mohammed, by persuading each to reject
particular parts of their respective belief and usages.

“ The earlier successors of Nanak tauglit nearly
the same doctrine ; but Guru Govind gave a new
character to the religion of his followers by many
material alterations ; more especially by the aboli-
tion of all distinctions of caste. The pride of descent
might still remain and keep up some distinction ; but
in the religious creed of Guru Govind all Sikhs, or
Singhs, arc declared equal. The admission of pro-
selytes, the abolition of caste, the eating of all kinds
of flesh except that of cows, the form of religious
worship [having no idols or representatives of God],
and the general devotion of the Singhs to arms, are
all at variance with the Hindu theology.”

Again : “ The Sikh Hindu converts continue all

those civil usages and customs of the tribe to which
they belonged, that they can practise without infring-
ing the tenets of Nanak or the institutions of Guru
Govind. Tiiey are very strict respecting diet and
intermarriages. The Mohammedan converts, who
become Sikhs, intermarry with each other ; but are
allowed to preserve none of their usages, being oblig-
ed to eat hog’s flesh, and to abstain from circumci-
sion. The Sikhs, or Singhs, arc forbidden the use of
tobacco ; but are allowed to indulge in spirituous
li/|ii^»\-V which they all drink to excess. The u.se of
opium and bang is also quite common. The military
Sikhs never dut their hair, nor shave their beards,”

196

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

and are required to wear steel, in some shape, as a
badge of their sect.

The religious people of the Sikhs, or rather, of
those Sikhs who are followers of Guru Govind, are
called Akalis, that is immortals ; or more frequently
by the natives Nihangs. They formerly directed
the national council when it was assembled, the Guru-
rnala ; but there lias been no meeting of that body
since 1805, and there will not probably ever be
another. I have not been able to learn that they
have any particular duties to perform as ministers of
religion. I should think they are of the same order
as the religious mendicants of the Hindus. Their
number is variously estimated. Perhaps, including
their families, it may amount to thirteen thousand
persons, or some three or four thousand men. They
receive their support chiefly from oflerings made to
the »Sikh temples ; particularly at Amritsir, where it
is said there are nearly two thousand of these Akalis.
Others, liowever, hold small jaghirs from the Govern-
ment. Tlieir character is exceedingly bad. They
arc a lawless and desperately depraved set of men.
Some of the most shameless things I have ever heard
of have been done in open daylight, in public places,
by some of these people. The common remark is,
that they are the worst people in the land. They
always go strongly armed; and as they are quite
fanatical, persons of other religious sects have much
to fear from their approach. In 1808, a large Jiady
of them attacked the English Ambassador, then in"
the Panjab, who was obliged, with his guard, to fight

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

197

for his life. They have even insulted Ranjit Singh ;
but hie has, witliin a few years, imposed some re-
straints on them ; and they arc now regarded as less
dangerous, though not less depraved, than they were
formerly. Tliere is reason to hope tliat the very
wickedness of these people will contribute much to
cut short their sway, and to render men more willing
to receive the teachers of our mild and j)ure religion.

Amritsir is the chief place of religious resort ;
but, in addition to the sacred reservoir at that city,
there are several other places of religious notoriety ;
as the birth-place of Nanak, &c. Some of the
Sikhs make pilgrimages, also, to the great Hindu
place of worship at Hardwar. At Amritsir there
arc a number of gurus, or religious teachers, whose
business is to read and to explain the Granth, their
sacred book. Some of them arc very respectable
looking men.

Concerning the expediency of forming at that
time a mission establishment in the Panjab, the fol-
lowing extract from a letter of March 20, 1835, will
show the opinions formed after making this journey.

“ 1 have been much impressed with the importance
of having an efficient mission in this field, in the
first instance at Lodiana, and perhaps at some other
places on the Rritish side of the Sutlej, but eventu-
ally to operate directly in the Panjdb.

“In these regions there are dense multitudes of
peoplb ; not at all inferior in body or mind, naturally,
to any other, that I have ever seen, and far superior

198

THE PANJAB AND THE SIKHS.

to the great mass of Hindus, being energetic, inqui-
sitive, and sagacious ; occupying, also, a trafct of
country that is immediately connected with several
other countries in which nothing has yet been
attempted in making known our Saviour's gospel.
The claims of the people of the Panjab themselves,
on our benevolence, are very great, and require an
extensive and efficient effort to meet them ; and they
assume still greater importance when we consider
that these are just the people, in character and in
geographical situation, to carry the knowledge of
our holy religion throughout Central Asia. They
have not now either knowledge or inclination to do
so. They are themselves dark-minded and depraved.
But 1 trust our Christian mission is the morning star
that is to precede the full day of gospel light and
influence among this interesting people.

“ I am not prepared, however, to conclude that it
is expedient to attempt forming a branch of our mis-
sion on that side of the Sutlej at present, though it
might bo practicable to do so. We had better
occupy first some of the important places which are
open to us in the part of India under English rule or
direct influence, where we are not so liable to capri-
cious interruption, and where we can enjoy some
advantages from the intercourse, and in some
instances, from the friendship of Europeans. There
are several places on this side of Benares, where it
would be extremely desirable to have such a mission
as that of our American brethren in Ceylon, there^
being ample scope for the largest eflbrts,"

NOTES ON THE, PROTECTED HILL STATES. 199

CHAPTER Xin.

LODIANA TO SIMLA; THE HILL TRIBES.

Arrival of tlie Rev. Messrs. Wilson and Nt‘wton at Calcutta — Leave
Lodiaiia for Simla — Society — Notes on the Protected Hill
Statca ; Face of the Country; Snowy Mountains; Productions;
Animuis ; Climate ; Population ; Agriculturo ; Religion ; Language ;
Character of the Pcoj)lc ; Valley of Kanaur.

After reaching Lodiana, on my return from
Labor, I liad the great satisfaction of receiving letters
froiii my missionary brethren, the Rev. Messrs. John
Newton and James Wilson, just arrived with their
wives at Calcutta, and accompanied by Miss Davis.
Though so far distant, and .so many months would
intervene before they could reach Ijodiana, I
could not but feel most grateful that they were in
the country, to share with me a resjmnsibility which
should never rest on one man, that of laying the
foundation of a system of elforls for the conver-
sion of multitudes ; and at the same time giving the
best a.ssurance that tlic mission now partially esta-
blished would be extended and carried forward by the
Church. Often, in hours of depression, I had been
ready to give way to di.scouragemenl, fearing that
our efibrts must Ije suspended, if not altogether aban-
doned. The prospect now appeared far brighter.

10

200

NOTES ON THE

Messrs. Wilson and Newton reached Calcutta on
the 25th of February, 1835, after a very favorable
voyage of one hundred and ten days, in the ship
Georgia, from Boston. Stopping at Calcutta until the
25th of June, they then commenced their voyage up
the Ganges in a pinnace, a larger boat than a budge-
row, intending to proceed in tents after leaving the
river at Futtehgurh, and expecting to reach Lodiana
about the 1st of November. Miss Davis afterwards
became connected in marriage with the llev. Mr.
Goadby, a worthy Baptist missionary from the pro-
vince of Orissa, south of Bengal.

In the meantime, following the doctor’s advice, 1
had gone up to Simla to spend the hot and rainy sea-
sons of the year. This is a station to which many
Europeans resort for health, its elevation making the
temperature pleasant even in the hottest days on the
plains. The houses are built around the sides of
what is called Mount Jakko, perhaps five hundred
feet below the summit of the mountain, which is
about eight thousand feet high. Many of the houses
stand detached from each other, in the midst of the
forest trees ; and they have a singularly wild “ look
out,” as the descent below them is precipitous and
deep, into the narrow valleys that lead oft' in different
directions, and the sublime snowy ranges can be
seen in the distance. The number of natives at
Simla is not large ; in the winter it is almost desert-
ed ; but during the six or seven months that Europe-
ans spend there, many petty shopkeepers, of differ-
ent kinds, bring their articles of traffic from the

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

201

plains, and give to the Simla bazar rather a lively
appearance. The whole native population never
exceeds, probably, a few hundred. Of English peo-
ple, during the summer of 1835 , there were from
one hundred and thirty to one hundred and fifty,
including a number of ladies. This was a larger
number, I was informed, than had visited the station
in any previous season.

Of the Europeans some were decidedly religious
people, and 1 sliould suppose nearly all regarded
religious institutions with respect. The attendance
on our service on Sundays often amounted to eighty,
which was considered a good number, as some w'cre
often absent on tours into the interior, and others
were in poor health. It has seldom been my good
fortune to meet with so many intelligent and agree-
able people in so small a company ; and those with
whom I was less acquainted, I am not disposed to
think less interesting. Of the more religiously
inclined visitors I cannot speak too highly. I
admired the character of their religion, which 1
thought unafiecled, teachable, and cordial, and at
the same time well inrormed and cheerful. Of the
ladies it becomes me to speak with due reserve, and
yet thankfulness for their kindness must be my excuse
for paying my willing tribute to their agreeable man-
ners and their unalfected excellence. I thought
them in manner, accomplishment, and intelligence,
very similar to ladies of our best society at home.
Many very pleasant and well-spent hours were

202

NOTES ON THE

enjoyed with these Christian friends. The remem-
brance of them is still fresh, and must ever be sajcred.
And now widely separated from them, and they from
each other, my fervent prayer is that wc may here-
after meet in a better world.

Durin^:^ this summer 1 endeavored to obtain accu-
rate information concerning the Hill States, making
tours into the interior for this purpose, and consulting
with English gentlemen who had lived in them a
number of years. The following notes were made
out shortly after leaving the Hills; they present the
result of the summer’s inquiries and observations in
regard to a peculiar region of India, and a simple
minded and primitive people.

The people, who inhabit the hilly region, which
lies between the snowy Himalaya mountains and the
Plains of India, are divided into numerous small
stales, under their own chiefs; and, as they have
been under the protection of the JJrilish power for
several years, they arc usually called “ The Protected
Hill States.”

1. As I have just stated, the snowy mountains and
the level plains of upper India are the two chief
boundaries of this region. Between them, and
exteiuling in a direction parallel to those mountains,
that is, from North West to South I’jast, these hill
states are situated. The river Sutlej forms the
dividing line between them and the similar regions
belonging to Ranjit Singh, the Ruler of Labor. In

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

203

the opposite, or South Eastern direction, the west
branch of the river Gogra separates them from the
territories of Nepal.

The length of this region is probably between one
hundred and fifty and two hundred miles ; and the
breadth may be stated at from fifty to seventy or
eighty mile.s. Yet this estimate must be regarded as
not very definite, since it is modified by the charac-
ter of the country in ]>articular places. The valley
of Kanaur, for example, belongs to one of these
states. It is almost entirely surrounded by the
regions of snow, and extends towards Chinese Tar-
tary probably one hundred and fifty miles from the
nearest part of the Plains.

2. The face of the country is extremely irregular
and hilly, as the name of the chiefdoms implies.
Yet the term hills can be used to describe these
mountainous regions only for the convenience of
having some word to distinguish them from the snowy
regions, as the peaks and ridges of these lower moun-
tains rise to an elevation of from two thousand to
upwards of six thousand feet in height, and not a few
are eight thousand, nine thousand, &c. In many
parts of the world such elevations would be accounted
lofty mountains ; and might be so considered here,
were it not that the snowy regions are always seen
towering up to such a height, that these mountains
seem but hills in com])ari.son with them. These
mountains resemble a large number of high, irregular
peaks and ridges jumbled together in every kind of
confusion, or.at any rate, of variety. But frequently.

204

NOTES ON THE

one peak, or short ridge, may be seen rising consi-
derably higher than its neighbors ; and often, an’ irre-
gular ridge may be traced for several miles, leading,
in many- instances, from one of these high peaks to
others. Thus Jakko, the mountain around the sides
of which the Station of Simla is built, is about eight
thousand feet high ; and from Jakko a lofty but crooked
ridge runs ten or twelve miles eastward to Mahassu,
a mountain nearly nine thousand feet high. In no
part of these regions do the mountains run in regu-
lar ranges, with level valleys intervening, like our
Alleghany Mountains. Indeed between the peaks
or the ridges there is seldom any level ground at all ;
but their sides decline at varying inclinations from
the top to the bottom. The sides are frequently
quite abrupt or precipitous, and commonly very
irregular. At the bottom, or foot of the mountain,
in the Kud, as it i.s called, a water channel usually
forms the boundary between one mountain and its
adjoining neighbor. Tiic northern sides of these
mountains are sometimes covered with dense pine
forests ; but the southern and south-eastern sides are
commonly destitute of trees, and i)resent a barren
and cheerless aspect, po.ssessing little interest, except
where the people have been able to cultivate them.
It may be owing to the effects of the rains during
the rainy season, which beat with great violence on
the south-east sides of the mountains, that there is so
marked a diflference between their different sides.

The great defect in the scenery of these moun-
tains is the want of water. There are but few

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

205

rivers ; and these are commonly very small, except
during the rains, when every valley has its foaming
torrent. At other seasons of the year, a person may
travel *‘up and down hill” all the day without seeing
a brook, or even a spring ; unless he ascends some
of the highest peaks, or descends quite to the bottom
of some of the valleys.

3. The snowy mountains, in clear weather, are
seen with distinct view from nearly all the higher
parts of the Protected Hill States. They may also
be seen very distinctly from many places in the
Plains of Upper India, when the atmosphere is clear,
and especially after there has been rain. There is
a remarkably fine distant view of them from Lodi-
ana, although that city cannot be less than from one
hundred to one hundred and fifty miles distJint from
the mountains. From Simla the nearer ranges of
snow-covered mountains are not distant in a direct
line more than thirty or forty miles.

The view of these mountains, as seen from seve-
ral places in thc.se Hill States, is extremely grand.
1 have looked at them for hours from the summit of
Hatu, and also of Kupar, the former ten thousand
six hundred feet high, the latter eleven thousand feet.
These mountains, themselves covered with snow
during several months of the year, are not distant
probably more than fifteen or twenty miles from the
regions of perpetual snow ; so that, in a clear day,
the view is perfectly well-defined, and beyond de-
scription imposing. The peaks and ridges, viewed
from this side, seem to have nearly all of them a

206

NOTES ON THE

slight inclination to the north-east. They appear
much less varied in form than one may suppose they
would appear if deprived of their snowy covering.
The snow, no doubt, conceals many an irregular
projection, and many a frightful chasm, and gives an
air of uniformity to the outline of the whole. The
valleys are generally much filled with snow, which
sometimes rises almost to the summits of the ridges,
and must be of immense depth. In so near a view,
the snow which fills the valleys can often be distin-
guished from that which rests on the ridges and
peak.s, by its inclination, and by its more settled or
dense appearance. But most of the peaks and
ridges are themselves quite covered with snow.
They are very irregular ; some are formed into long
ranges; others shoot up in separate elevations of
almost every shape, looking sometitnes like immense
battlements and towers, and sometimes like lofty
piles of vast dilapidated buildings. At a distant
view in the afternoon, they look not unlike great
ma.sscs or embankments of white clouds, brilliantly
reflecting the rays of the sun. Sometimes a dark,
rugged peak projects above the snow, being probably
tob vertical to admit of the snow’s resting upon it,
and artbrds a striking contrast to the pure and peace-
ful appearance of the snow around it. The difler-
ence of their appearance before and after the rains
is considerable, as much of the snow becomes melted,
leaving the summits, esj)ecially of the nearer and
lower ranges, more naked and dark. The heights
of a number of the most elevated peaks, have been

PROtECTED HILL STATES.

^07

carefully ascertained. Not less than seven are
upwards of twenty-two thousand feet high ; one of
which, DcwalagUi, is about twenty-seven thousand
feet, and three others about twenty-five thousand
feet. These loftiest parts of our globe, though dis-
tinctly higher than other parts of the Himalaya
ranges, are yet not very prominently so.

The snowy mountains may sometimes be traced
at one view from the north-west towards tlu^ south-
east for probably two hundred miles. There is some-
thing adaj)ted to awaken deeply serious feelings in
one’s mind, to look at peak after peak stretching
away in the distance, and then to invest each suc-
cessive elevation with the well defined but cold
majesty which seems to repose on the nearer moun-
tains. These snow-covcre<l mountains awaken feel-
ings (piite dillerent from any 1 have ever been con-
scious of when looking at other mountains. These
seem too pure for earth ; too unchanging for time.
A person is ready to look on them as if they were
regi<^ns commencing another world. ^J'hcy arc cer-
tainly ada[)ted to elevate the thouglits and feelings
to a higher world. "J'hey bear their solemn testimony
to (jod’s unchanging greatness, with a force that
mere words could never impress on the mind. The
Christian’s mind is remiered deeply reverential. It
is filled with thoughts and feelings like those of the
Psalmist when surveying the heavens : Lord, what
is man that thou art mindful of him I”

Considering the blinding infim nee of our depraved
nature on the mental perceptions, it is scarcely won-
10 *

20 »

NOTES ON THE

derful that the poor Hindu should, in all ages, have
raised to these snow-covered mountains “ an eye of
religious veneration.” “In the Hindu Pantheon,
Himalaya is deified, and described as the father of
the Ganges and her sister Ooma ; the latter being
the spouse of Mahadeva, or Siva, the destroying
power.” But we may hope, as well as pray, that the
glorious light of the Gospel shall soon spread over
India. Then the Hindu shall raise his eye to those
lofty summits only to aid his mind in elevating its
thoughts to the throne of the great Creator, there to
render tlie homage of humility and of })raise.

4. There are few llivcrs of any note in the Pro-
tected Hill regions ; though both the Ganges and the
Jumna take their rise in them. The Sutlej runs
nearly one hundred miles of its course in the country
protected by the British, and then forms the bound-
ary, as already mentioned, separating that country
from llanjit Singh’s possessions. It is not at all
navigable in the Hills. During the greater part of
its course among the mountains, the descent of the
water is very great, and the current is extremely
rapid and tumultuous. There are several small
streams, sometimes called rivers, of which I have
seen only one deserving of notice — the Giri. At
probably twenty miles’ distance from its source, and
thence fifty or sixty miles to its junction with the
Jumna, it is about twenty yards wide, with an
average depth of two feet ; having a current of from
four to six miles an liour. Its water is remarkably
clear, and runs over a rocky or pebbly bed, some-

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

200

times descending considerable declivities with great
noise. A few fish are found in this river. Com-
monly, the streams of water in these hills are quite
destitute of fish.

5. Among the Trees and Productions of these
regions, the pine is the most common ; of which
there are five or six species. The larch and the
cedar are most frequently met with. The former
resembles our American white pine ; and the latter,
the species which in some places is called “ spruce
pine.” One variety of the pine in the interior bears
a small, oblong, and rich fruit, of which most persons
are quite fond. It is called the pneoza pine. There
is a species of oak, but it is small in size. On the
sides of the higher mountains the maple, birch, horse-
chestnut, &c., are seen. The Rhododendron is
everywhere common. It grows to the height of the
locust or sassafras trees of America, and presents
a beautiful appearance in the months of March
and April, when covered over with its large and
gorgeous scarlet flowers. The apricot is common,
and bears an excellent fruit. Peaches do not come
to maturity, in consecjuence of the rains. The
apples are tolerable, though found only in one or two
of the valleys. They would become very good, one
may suppose, if proper care were employed in
grafting. Black currants arc abundant in some
parts. In Kanaur, one of the valleys, there are
several varieties of the grape, which form a good
part of the subsistence of the inhabitants, being dried
for that purpose. They are not made into wine ;

210

NOTES ON THE

though sometimes a strong and very intoxicating
liquor is manufactured from them. Walnut trees
and wild pears are often seen. Plantains, oranges,
mangoes, &c., are found in the valleys near the
Plains.

No precious Metals, lead, coal, nor salt, have yet
been discovered. In a few places iron ore is found.
The natives have very small and simple furnaces, in
which they make an inferior kind of iron. The most
common rock is the mica slate. On the highest
elevations gneiss is the usual species. Quartz is
often seen with both the mica and the gneiss.
Granite is rarely met with. Other varieties are
sometimes found.

The Soil seems to be very poor, except near the
bottom of the valleys, and in the forests on the sides
of the mountains. In the former it is enriched by
the deposits brought down from the higher ground
by the rains. The decay of vegetable matter accounts
for the fertility of the ground where there fire forests.

The farmers cultivate various kinds of grain ;
among which are wlicat, maize, buckwheat, barley,
and several kinds of native grain. Among the latter
the Batu makes a very beautiful appearance in the
fields, when almost ripe. It is a plume-like stalk,
containing a great many seeds resembling timothy
seed ; which are ground into flour by the natives,
the red covering or husks serving as food for the
cattle. Some rice is cultivated in the valleys. Pota-
toes have been introtluced by the English, and grow
very well. The poppy is cultivated in order to make

protected hill states.

211

opium ; of which considerable quantities are manu-
factured. Some tobacco is grown, and occasionally
patches of cotton may be seen. Large pumpkins,
cucumbers, onions, peas, &c., are to be had ; but the
latter, with carrots, beans, and strawberries, are seb
dom cultivated by the natives.

6. Among the wild animals is a species of leopard.
Jackals are common. Foxes are sometimes seen ;
monkeys more frequently. There are a few snakes,
which are seldom seen, however, except during the
rains. Lizards, toads, and frogs, seem to be much
pleased with this climate, if a person may judge by
their numbers. Among the birds, crows, hawks,
and kites, are always seen in large numbers in the
vicinity of towns and villages, though they are not
so very numerous as in other parts of India. The
golden eagle may be often observed proudly sailing
over the valleys, and above the highest mountain
summits. They sometimes measure ten feet from
tip to tip of the wings. The cuckoo, swallow, spar-
row, jay, and a variety of other small birds, are com-
mon during certain months of the year. None are
at all remarkable for sweetness of note ; though some
of them have beautiful ])lumage. I'lie house-fly,
and his enemy the spider, fleas, and some other not
more agreeable insects, are too common for a person’s
comfort sometimes. The bee is quite common, and
honey is good, plenty, and cheap.

The farmers commonly have one or two buflaloes ;
or, if not, small cows instead. The cow is quite a
sacred animal. At one place, the natives refused to

212

NOTES ON THE

milk them into our vessels ; though it seems difficult '
to imagine how the holiness of cows could be con-
taminated by doing so. There are no horses, except
such as belong to the Ranas, or chiefs. Ploughing
is always done by bullocks or cows. Mules are
sometimes used for the transportation of merchan-
dise. Sheep and goats seem to thrive well. The
former all have short horns, both male and female.
Fowls might be kept with the greatest ease, but for
the religious prejudices of the natives.

7. As to the climate the degree of heat or of cold
depends chiefly on the elevation. In the narrow
precipitous valleys it is intolerably hot during the
summer. At Simla, seven thousand five hundred
feet high, the thermometer, in the house, rose to 80®
and 82^^ last May ; but fell to 64^^ and 66° during
the rains. In the latter end of October there were
hard frosts on the ground in the mornings. In the
winter there are frequent falls of snow at Simla,
which, however, is soon melted.

The rains commence early in June, and continue
until the middle or latter end of September. They
are extremely heavy ; and are attended sometimes
with lightning and thunder, especially about their
commencement and termination. The worst fea-
ture of the rainy season is the dense fog or mist,
which prevails very much for two months. These
fogs I have not seen in the Plains. They are very
dense. Indeed they seem to be literally clouds,
heavily charged with moisture, and often so dense
that objects of the largest size cannot be at all seen

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

213

at the distance of half a dozen yards. They often
rise -suddenly, and from no conceivable cause of a
local nature ; and continue sometimes for a few hours ;
at others, for days, if not for weeks. They seldom
settle lower down than six thousand feet above the
level of the sea. At high elevations they remain
during all the rains. They are very oppressive to
persons of weak lungs, or who are troubled with
• difficulty of breathing.

With the exception of the sun’s rays, and of the
fogs for six weeks or two months on the higher Hills,
this climate is considered very much better than
that of the Plains for persons coming from colder
latitudes. There is something refreshing and brac-
ing in the pure mountain air. A person feels here
some of the elasticity of mind which he enjoyed in
his own country. lie rises in the morning refreshed
by his sleep, and not languid, feverish, and spiritless,
as during the hot season in the Plains. I believe
the climate of these hills is considered favorable to
persons whose system has become enfeebled by the
heat of the plains ; to those who are recovering from
fevers ; to persons subject to derangement of the
functions of the liver, in cases not constitutional and
inveterate. It is probably favorable to most kinds
of disease in India. The higher elevations, however,
where the fogs prevail, can hardly be salutary to
persons subject to rheumatic affections, or laboring
under pulmonary complaints.

There are three or four places on the Hills to
which English invalids resort for their health, and
where medical men are commonly to be met with

214

I^OtES ON THE

among the other residents, at least during the
hot months. Of these Simla and Mussooree are- the
two chief places of resort ; the latter station being
in the Hills north of Meerut. • At each of these sta-
tions from one hundred to one hundred and filty
persons reside for several months during the summer.
But few remain during the cold season. It is deemed
strange by some, that the stations for invalid soldiers
are not established somewhere in this region. The
climate would certainly be more pleasant and salu-
tary for them than that of the plains. There is at
Mussooree a school for English children, where
many branches of a respectable education are taught,
under the superintendence of a European teacher
and his sister. It is well spoken of, and affords
advantages not ordinarily met with in India, to the
families who prefer a residence at that station, when
they are obliged to go to the Hills. Sabathu, on the
route to Sir)ila, is the station where one of the Poli-
tical Agents iti these Hill States, and where also a
medical officer permanently reside. It is only four
thousand feet high, and is not much resorted to by
invalids. Sabathu is one inarch (fifteen miles) from
the jilains, and two marches from Simla.

8. The entire population in these regions under
British protection, is estimated at two hundred and
fifty thousand persons. There are few towns of any
size. Sabathu is one of the largest in the Hills, and
yet, including the vicinity of eight or ten miles, it
does not contain more than twelve thousand people.
Rampur, on the Sutlej, contains about one thousand

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

215

inhabitants. It is the place where the chief me/a, or
fair,* in the Hills, is held. On that occasion, several
days are devoted to buying and selling, to religious
duties, &c. It is commonly held in the month of
October or November, and is resorted to by some
thousands of natives from all parts of the Hill
country.

Usually, the Hill people dwell in small villages
and hamlets of from half a dozen houses to twenty
or thirty. In a single valley, or rather on the sides
of the two mountains which form the valley, nume-
rous clusters of houses may be seen, generally sub-
ject to the same chief, and all accessible without
much dilliculty, after a j)crson has succeeded in
reaching one of them. I have counted between
twenty-five and thirty of these small villages at one
view, thus situated on the sides of the neighboring
mountains ; and a missionary might visit all on one
of the sides in the course of a few days, spending
several hours at each, to make knowm the Gospel,
and pitching his tent at night at a few miles* distance
from his camp in the morning. The valley of Jubal
is said to contain not less than fourteen thousand
people, dwelling thus in villages, the greater part of
which are visible at one view from some high peaks
in the vicinity. All of these villages might probably
be visited by a missionary in a fortnight or three
weeks. If a person could speak the language with
freedom, and possessed the patient, devoted spirit of
JNeff, he could not desire a finer field for doing good
both to the bodies and souls of his fellow men.

216

NOTES ON THE

The population of these States must be regarded
as very great, when the character of their country
is considered. Probably not more than one third of
the actuaF surfiice of these regions admits of being
cultivated. The proportion may be larger on the
lower Hills ; but it is much smaller on the higher.

9. The Hill people are nearly all employed in
cultivating the soil. As there is scarcely any level
ground, they are compelled to form the surface of
the Hills into irregular terraces. These are usually
very small, seldom more than a few rods broad, often
only a few feet ; their length is very various. They
are supported by low walls of stones, piled up without
any mortar or cement. It is no uncommon thing
among the lower Hills near the plains, to see terraces
of this kind reaching from the bottom to the top.
Often, on the higher Hills, these rude terraces extend
as far up as the nature of the soil, or the coldness of
the climate, admits of cultivation. Rice and other
productions of warm climates, may be seen at the
bottom, while some of the hardier kinds of grain are
growing at the top. These little fields on the moun-
tain sides look very beautiful in the spring months.

The implements of agriculture in common use are
simple and rude ; but the plough is better than the
one used in the plains, and the harrow is not worse.
The houses of these people are comfortable for Hin-
dus. They are much more substantial than those
of farmers in the plains, being usually built chiefly of
small-sized stones, with timbers, six or eight inches
square, placed along in the walls at distances of

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

217

two or three feet apart. In the interior of the Hills,
the houses are commonly two stories in height, the
upper story having a porch, partly inclosed, along
the entire front side, from which a door opens into
the apartments of the family. The lower story is
merely a stable for their buffaloes or cows. The
roof is composed of flat stones, sometimes of slates,
and projects so far on the front side as to afford a
cover to the veranda or porch. It is seldom that
these houses have any windows. Chimneys seem to
be unknown throughout India, in native houses, the
fire being kindled and kept in little clay fire-places,
and the smoke being allowed to make its escape as
best it can. Some of the richer farmers among the
Hill people have houses so large and well-built that
they would be quite respectable even in America,
having verandas on all sides, and being constructed
of stones and timbers which have been carefully
hewed and prepared. A good Pahari house for the
ordinary class of inhabitants will cost about one
hundred rupees. In the plains, the corresponding
class of people live in houses of clay, which cost
twenty or thirty rupees — ten or fifteen dollars.

10. The Temples, or places of religious character,
are of different sizes and appearance. Most com-
monly they are of one rather low story in height,
constructed of the same materials as ordinary houses,
but having their roofs modelled more like the Chinese
roofs, or of a slightly concave form from the cone to
the eaves. Often these temples are made entirely of
wood. Sonnetimes a part of the building is of open

218

NOTES ON THE

structure, showing at one view all the idols and their
ornaments. In other instances, there is no opening
of any kind, except one small door. Some of the
temples arfe more lofty than these, and have a veranda
on all sides, at about two thirds of their height, which,
as it is often inclosed, gives them a singular appear-
ance. Some few consist of little more than a plat-
form of stone, and four posts, or rude pillars, which
support the roof. Some have a kind of low circular
tower, rising above one end.

Their sites are often worthy of attention. Some
are seen at a great distance, on the top of a moun-
tain peak, or at the extremity of some ridge, standing
solitary. Others break suddenly on the view of a
traveller, as he passes through the forest, standing in
its most dense recesses, and surrounded and over-
shadowed by lofty trees. Near the villages, they
stand generally alone, a space being reserved between
them. and the dwellings of tlie people. They all seem
adapted to exert a cheerless influence on the minds
of men, an influence quite in accordance with the
spirit of the Hindu system. Yet it must be acknow-
ledged that their situation and appearance are not
destitute of impressiveness. The idols in these tem-
ples are rude sculptures of wood and stone, and are
most commonly devoted to the goddess Kali, though
the trident of Siva is sometimes seen over their
most holy place. To the former goats are frequently
sacrificed. Formerly, it appears from uncontradicted
testimony, human victims were offered at her bloody
shrine. There is a mountain very distinctly seen

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

219

from Simla, called Shall, on whose summits in for-
mer'days there was a famous temple to this goddess.
It is commonly believed that human beings were
killed for sacrifices at that temple ; but no instance
has occurred since 1809. Since these regions have
come under English control, this practice, and that
of infanticide, in a great degree, have been abolished.
One cannot but wonder that it should ever have
existed among a people so mild, and apparently kind-
hearted as these Paharis are. But the depraved
heart of man, when unchanged and unrestrained
by Divine influence, is susceptible of entertaining
and of perpetrating any evil, however heinous in
itself, or however horrible in its consequences.

At some temples, incense is offered in a rude
earthen censer. In ascending a mountain one morn-
ing, with a Christian friend, we were much struck at
seeing this ceremony performed. The person offi-
ciating was kneeling a short distance from the idol.
In one hand he held a censer, with the incense burn-
ing, which he waved backwards and forwards, while
with the other he was ringing a little bell. I never
saw an instance of the kind before ; and my com-
panion said it was equally new to him, although he
had been fourteen years in various parts of India.

It is very common, in the immediate vicinity of
these hill temples, to see a great number of rags
sticking on the bushes and low trees around. They
are of every color and texture, and are usually in
the shape of narrow and rather long strips. They
seem to have been torn off from the clothes commonly

220

NOTES ON THE

worn by the people, and are said to be intended as
pledges by worshippers, that they will fulfil their
vows. This custom seems to be quite peculiar to
these hills ; at least I have not heard of any similar
usage elsewhere.

11. The Religion of these people, as may be
inferred from what has been said about their temples,
is exclusively the Hindu. There are no Mussul-
mans, and scarcely any Sikhs among them. They
seem to be chiefly of one caste of Hindus ; or per-
haps it would be more , correct to say, that they do
not pay much regard to the distinction of caste ; so
that a person does not see, as in the plains, half a
dozen fire-places to ^cook the dinners of half a
dozen people. There arc but few brahmans among
them, nearly all the people belonging to the class
whose sole duty, according to Hindu notions, is to
cultivate the soil.

12. The Language seems to be principally Hindui.
Of the very few that I met who could read, all read
the Hindui in the Devnagari character. An English
gentleman who is an excellent Hindustani scholar,
informed me, that lie could scarcely make himself
understood by the Paharis, while a friend of his, who
is well acquainted with the Hindui, got along much
better in his intercourse with them. Yet their mode
of pronunciation is so very singular, that few Euro-
peans can understand them. There are but few
books of any description among them ; and probably
not one in every thousand is able to read and write.
No school of any sort is found among them ; except-

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

221

ing one or two established and entirely supported by
English people. There are generally a few persons,
however, in each small state, who are able to read,
and to keep the few records in writing that the
administration of their affairs requires to be thus
preserved. I have been told that there are three or
four different alphabets used in different places.

13. In the manners of the Hill people there is a frank
and independent bearing, which is much more pleas-
ing than the sycophancy and servility towards supe-
riors so common throughout India. They seem to
be very ingenuous. They might be characterized
as a simple-minded people, who are little encumbered
with artificial distinctions of wealth and rank. Their
chiefs have commonly but little power ; their sub-
jects, territories, and resources being all, for the
most part, very limited. Hence, there is among
them the absence both of the polish of address, and
of the .specious but deceitful ingenuity of mind,
which are found among the subjects of more powerful
and wealthy native rulers.- This absence of artifi-
cial usages may be partly owing, also, to the fact,
that there are few persons among them of overgrown
wealth. On the other hand, there are but few
among these Pahiiris who are absolutely poor, or
compelled to beg for their subsistence, the people
being commonly in moderate but comfortable cir-
cumstances. In their personal habits and dress they
are offensively dirty. When an article of clothing
is put on, it seems to be allowed to stay on until it
wears off. The girls are betrothed at an early age.

222

NOTES ON THE

and their hair, it is said, is then plaited, and remains
undressed (it is further added) ever afterwards. *

As to morals, they evince a much greater regard
for truth and uprightness in dealing, than is shown
by the people of the Plains. Much greater con-
fidence can be reposed in their word, and in their
honesty. But they are spoken of as greatly addicted
to licentiousness; though the female sex does not
appear to be so degraded as in the Plains. They
are not so much secluded, which is some proof of
their being held in higher estimation and of their
enjoying greater respect. In one or two sections of
the Hills, it is said that polyandry is common. A
Christian friend informed me, that he had seen one
family, where there were only two women. One
was the aged mother, the other was the wife of ten
men.

In their disposition or temper there seems to be a
great deal of kindness of feeling, prompting them to
take an interest in the sufferings of others, and to
render assistance to those who are in want. These
Hill people seem to be patient, contented, easily
satisfied, and greatly attached, as all mountain tribes
are, to their own country. A missionary who would
go among them in a kind and quiet manner,
endeavor to promote their temporal comfort, as
well as their spiritual welfare, and exemplify before
them the peaceful and pure spirit of the gospel,
might hope, if favored with the Divine blessing, to
secure their warm affection for himself personally,
and to see many of them embracing the gospel of

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

223

the ^race of God. His success would be greater and
more immediate, probably, than he could meet with
elsewhere in India. There are no difficulties or
obstacles to hinder immediate Christian effort for the
conversion of this people, except such difficulties as
will continue until the gospel itself removes them by
its holy influence. Under the existing authorities of
the country, and among so peaceful a pco[)le, every
judicious and prudent missionary would enjoy pro-
tection ; while the climate and its inconveniences
will ever remain, of course, in a great degree
unchanged. It has been already remarked that the
climate and the country are undoubtedly more favor-
able to the health of Europeans and Americans than
the greater j)art of India and of south-eastern Asia.

The first establishment of a mission family might
be made at Sabathu, which is convenient to the
Plains, has the advantage of a resident medical offi-
cer, and of post office communications, &c. At that
place a comfortable house could be either purchased
or rented, at a low rate. It would admit of conve-
nient intercourse with the mission station at Lodiana,
from which the books and tracts requisite for the
prosecution of missionary labors might be easily
obtained ; and it would aflbrd a comfortable retreat
for the missionaries from the Plains, when their
health might become impaired. The distance be-
tween Lodiana and Sabathu is about one hundred
miles.

In regard to the mountainous and isolated valley
11

224

WOTKS nN THK

of Kanaur, referred to in the first paragraph of the
foregoing notes, the following memoranda will be
considered valuable by the reader ; they were taken
from a work, then printed but not published, which
has been lately rc[)rinted and published in London.
Captain Gerard, from whose book these notices were
compiled by jicrmission, had made several tours to
the valley, and had spent some time in it.

Kunaur (Koonawur), a part of the protected Hill
states, lies on both sides of the Sutlej river, from
Lat. 15 ^ to 32 " and from Long. 77 ^ 50 ' to
78 '^ 50 '. It runs from north-east to south-west, the
habitable part seldom exceeding eight miles in
breadth. It is secluded, rugged, mountainous, and
almost entirely surrounded by mountains covered
with snow. On the east it is separated from Chiru'.se
Tartiiry by a lofty ridge, through which are several
passes at high elevations.

Poi’ULATioN. — There are seven large divisions, sub-
divided into twenty smaller, containing altogether
rather less than ten thousand inhabitants. Ilampur,
the chief town of liaschar, the state or chiefdorn of
which Kunaur forms a part, contains one hundred
and ten families. In Kunaur, Marang contains
eighty-seven families, and Ridang, seventy-five.
These are among the most populous places in Basehar.
The villages arc situated from seven to twelve thou-
sand feet above the sea.

Climate. — This depends upon the elevation and
the location of the particular place. Rampur is
so hot, during a good part of the year, as to be

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

225

almost uninhabitable by Europeans. Other places
are so cold, as to be uninhabitable by any human
beings. Between these extremes there is a great
variety of temperature.

Valleys. — The valleys of the Sutlej, of the Baspa,
of the Pabar, and of one or two other small streams,
are thc'only parts which admit of much cultivation.
Arable sj)aces occasionally are met, varying from one
hundred yards to half a mile in width.

Rivers. — The Sutlej is more like a torrent than
a large river, descending sometimes one hundred or
one hundred and fifty feet per mile. The water looks
turbid, from .the particles of sand, or of the rocks,
worn off’ by attrition, which are held suspended in
the stream. It runs two hundred and eighty miles
in the snowy mountains, one hundred more in the
hills, or lower range of mountains, and one hundred
Jiiid thirty nuire in the plains, to its junction with
the Bias. Its breadth varies greatly; its depth in
the hills can seldom be ascertained, owing to the
rapidity of the current, which is often fearfully great.

The Sutlej receives several mountain streams as
tributaries, of which the chief is the Spiti, which is
nearly one hundred miles in length. The others
vary in length from ten to forty-five miles. They
are all much swollen by the rains, and by the melt-
ing of the snow. These rivers and steams are pass-
ed by sangos, or wooden bridges, hy j hulas y or rope
bridges, and by sagamSy or twig bridges. The second
is made of several cables stretched from bank to
bank, from^ which a noose is suspended ; in this the

226

NOTES ON THE

passenger places himself, and he is then drawn over
by cords attached to the noose. The third kinJi of
bridge is formed of twigs twisted, ropes, &c.

Passes. — There are various ps^sses, over which
travellers cross the mountains. Of the.se, six lead
to Chinese Tartary, and several into Thibet.

Productions, &c. — Barley, buckwheat, and wheat
are common. The potatoe has been introduced, and
grows well. Among the trees are six kinds of pine,
oak, birch, maple. Wild fruits are abundant, as
black and red currants, gooseberries, strawberries,
neoza,* pears, apricots, &c. Many varieties of
grapes flourish very well in good situations. Eight-
een kinds arc mentioned, which seems an incredibly
large number. They sell at sixty or seventy pounds
to the rupee. Apples are but indifferent — could they
not be improved by grafting ? Peaches do not ripen
well.

The animals arc^ cows, sheep, goats, asses, small
horses, dogs, &c. There are a few wild bears, and
a species of tiger-cat, or panther. Among the
birds are pheasants, hawks, eagles, crows, pigeons,
&c. Fish are not abundant. There are snakes,
frogs, flies, fleas, &c. The common bee is every-
where met with, and there is plenty of fine honey,
particularly in the autumn.

The people are dark cornplexioiied and muscular.
Their stature is from five feet four inches to five feet

*The nooza is a small, rather long, partly conical fruit, tasting not
unlike the filbert or hazel nut, and produced by a species of the pine.

PROTECTED HILL STATES.

227

nine. ’They are frank, active, hospitable, and highly
honorable, reverencing the truth, &c.

Their religion is Hinduism, but with less regard
for the subdivisions of caste than the people of the
plains evince. They erect temples to the Devtas,
or gods, in their villages, and piles of stones on the
summits of the hills. Kali is chiefly worshipped.
Human sacrifices were oflered before the British
became rulers ; and female infanticide was common.
Their language is a dialect of the Hindui. Few
persons can read or write. The dialect called Mil-
chan is said to be the most common.

Diseases are few, as the climate is salubrious and
bracing. As there are no periodical rains in Kunaur,
there are few vapors or mists. The swelled throat,
or goitre, is frequently met with ; but it is not sup-
posed to be owing to their drinking snow water,
because many who drink nothing else for months are
not troubled with it.

228

LODIANA TO NEW YORK.

CHAPTER XIV.

LODIANA TO NEW YORK.

Mooting with Messrs. Wilson and Newton — English school at Lodi-
una — Mission station at Sabathu — Other fields of labor — Station at
Lodiuna — Leave liodiana — Meeting at Calcutta with the third
company of Missionaries — Reach New York.

Leaving Simla about the 17th of November, I
proceeded to join my missionary friends, the Wilsons
and Newtons, now on the land part of their joujmey
to Lodiana, and on the 23d of that month we^ad
the high gratification of meeting at a small native
village about thirty miles nortl»-west of Delhi. Years
had passed since we were students together at the
Alleghany Seminary, and in this period changes of
the deepest interest had taken place ; the broad ocean
had been crossed, the hand of death had taken away
more than one whom we all loved, and who had
expected to be present at this meeting ; and we were
now truly strangers in a strange country. How
thankful and Joyful that we were again together !
With the warmest gratitude did we at once unite in
offering fervent praise to God, “ for all the way by
which he had led us along.” Our meeting was a
time of the most tender and refreshing communion,
such as language can but feebly describe.

I.ODIANA TO NEW YORK.

229

AfteF reaching Lodiaiia, we had the satisfaction
of spending about six weeks together. During this
time the history of our mission in all its details was
brought under review, and its prospects carefully
examined. Various plans of usefulness were con-
sidered, and our united and fervent prayers were
often made that the blessing of the great Head of
the Church might attend our feeble undertakings.
On a review of all our affairs, wc could not but
“ thank C^od, and lake courage.’’ I may here insert
some extracts from a letter, written a montli or two
afterwards, but referring to the state of things in
January, 1K3G.

“The English school was first established under
the aus[)ices and generous support of Captain C. M.
Wa* the Political Ageitt at Lodiana ; and, for
some months before I reached that place in Novem-
ber, 1881, it was taught by Hhahamat Ali, a young
man of considerable promise, who had acquired
some knowledge of our language at the government
college, or school, at Delhi.

“ One of the first subjects that required our con-
sideration after we arrived at Lodiana was that of
our connexion with this schord. Captain Wade was
its founder, and it has always been chiefly owing to
his deep interest in its success, and to his generous
patrouage, that it has thus far j)rospcred so well.
He wished, however, to sustain towards it a some-
what different, though not less friendly relationship.
And between his making an arrangement that would
have ])laced it out of our hands, and making it over

230

LODIANA TO NEW YORK.

entirely to us, we, of course, could not feel as indif-
ferent spectators ; especially as the other arrange-
ment would have involved the giving up of all reli-
gious books and instructions in the school. After
free and repejited conversations with Captain Wade
on the subject, marked on his part by a most kind, con-
siderate, and liberal disposition, it seemed best that the
school should be altogether made over to our mission.
Captain Wade will, however, continue to mani-
fest an entirely cordial interest in its welfare, and is
still the patron of the school. It now contains about
forty-five boys and young men. This number is as
large as could be expected, when it is considered
that but few, if any, of the natives of this country
are yet influenced by a desire of knowledge ^’om
disinterested motives ; and that the number of ^na-
tions is but limited in which a knowledge of our lan-
guage would be advantageous in a })ecuniary point
of view. Indeed, it may be said of most places
remote from Calcutta, that the most weighty motive
to the mind of a Hindu for seeking a knowledge of
our language is the hope of pleasing his Fi uropean
superiors, and of deriving some sort of advantage
from their lavor. Tliis is a good deal the case at
Lodiana ; though I am glad to think that some of the
boys are influenced by higher and letter motives.
But, whatever may be the character of the motives
which influence any of the natives in their eftbrtsto
become acquainted with our language, it matters
little to us as to our duty. To us it is simply a
question between endeavoring to avail ourselves of

LODIAWA to NEW YORR.

231

their ’wish to know our language by consenting to
teach them, and watching opportunities to make
them acquainted with uselul and Christian know-
ledge, and neglecting to do so. If we choose the
latter plan, we lose many and precious opportunities,
direct and indirect, of exerting a useful influence, of
communicating important knowledge, of correcting
evil habits, of witnessing a Christian example ; and
we permit a most interesting class of the community
to acquire that knowledge of our language which
will make them by far the most influential men of
their generation, without any, or with but an imperfect
acquaintance with the truths of our religion. The
desire to know our language is awakened in their
miqi^ ; it will be gratified ; those who learn our
books will he looked up to by all the people ; they
will occupy many places of important influence
among their countrymen; but whether they will
exert an influence favorable to Christianity, or not,
is a diflerent and most important matter. Mere ge-
neral knowledge will never make them sincere Chris-
tians; though it may, and most probably will make
them infidels as to the religious systems of their
fathers. We have yet to learn whether infidelity in
India is any better than infidelity in America or
Europe.*

♦ This Knglish Hchool h.as not ceasod to be an object of prominent
interest. A ihjw and more eligible building has bc‘cn erected for its
u'^c ; the niiiribor of pppil.M lias been doubled. Though subject to con-
widcrable changes, partly from the parents’ early withdrawing their
sons to occupy st.-itions of buHinoiHt thereby greatly hindering the une-

il*

232

LODIANA TO NEW YORR.

“ Another subject that has received a good many
of our thoughts, is the distribution of our number ;
having a reference as well to those who are to come
as to those now here. Lodiana seems to need the
services of two missionaries, one printer, and one
schoolmaster. Ambala, about seventy miles to the
south-east, is as large a town, or perhaps larger;
but, at present, it does not appear to be advisable to
attempt forming a branch of our mission there.
Ferozpur, about seventy miles down the Sutlej from
Lodiana, is a place of ten or twelve thousand inha-
bitants, and of great prospective inportance. It is
not quite prepared, probably, for becoming the sta-
tion of a mission family. Sabathu, one hundred
miles from Lodiana, in the Protected Hill States, is
a very good place at which to have one missionary
and one schoolmaster stationed. These are the
places now under direct British control. There are
many large towns belonging to native Chiefs, on
both sides of the Sutlej, within one hundred miles,
and many within fifty miles of Lodiana. Within
the latter distfince is Patiala, said to contain sixty or
seventy thousand inhabitants, southward from [^odi-
ana ; Sirhind, containing probably fifteen thousand,
eastward, or south-eastward, from Lodiana, on the
road to Ambala ; Jalandar, forty thousand, thirty

fulness of the school ; yot it cannot be doubted that a good influence
bus boon already exerted througii its agency. Its position in reference
to surrounding countries, and the ditibrent languages spoken by its
pupils, will make this school the means, with the blessing of God, of
diffusing far and near the knowledge of the way of life.

LODIANA to new YORK.

233

miles; and Paghwarah, fifteen thousand, twenty
miles. Both of these are on the other side of the
Sutlej, on the road to Ainritsir and Labor. Besides
these large towns, there are a good many of some
thousands, and a great many of some hundreds of
inhabitants. But in regard to towns which are
entirely under native rule, it may be regarded in ge-
neral as scarcely advisable for a mission family to
settle at them, before a knowledge of the language is
attained ; and perhaps even then it will be better to
occu])y first those large towns and important places
which are under British rule exclusively. There
will be less probability of meeting with any inter-
ruption in one's labors. It is quite practicable to
visit towns under native rule ; and perhaps circum-
stances might occur which would make it appear
advisable to reside at them. This would be the case,
were any of their rulers to become ( 'hristians. But,
at present, it might be attended with uncertainty as
to being free from trouble, or rather, as to obtaining
the consent of the Chiefs. At any rate, it would be
attended with much delay in regard to getting suita-
ble houses prepared, so (hat it does not seem expedi-
ent that any of our brethren should attempt at once
to take up a permanent re.sidence at a native town.

“ Besides, great changes may be anticipated, and
perhaps troublesome times, on the other side of the
Sutlej ; for the health of the chief ruler, Ranjtt
Singh, is in a very precarious condition. Though he
may live for years, yet he might die any night. It
seems hardly proper to think of forming any station

m

LODIANA 1*0 YORK.

on that side of the Sutlej until there is a better pi^os-
pect of quietness and of a settled government.

“We came very satisfactorily to the conclusion,
that we should commence a. mission in the Hill
Stales as soon as practicable. We have felt ourselves
justifiable in making preparation fora mission family
to reside there, and have purchased a stone house
at Sabathu for that purpose. This we thought it
was expedient to do, because while it was oftered
at a low price, the opportunity might be lost, if
neglected.

“ You will perceive that Lodijina and Sabathu do
not afford sufficient work to employ all our brethren
permanently. Shall they all go to those places until
they learn the language, and then go wherever Provi-
dence directs ? Or would it be advisable for some of
them to stay at Furrukliabad, oral some other place
in the Doab, or level country, between the Ganges
and the Jumna ? The latter is a region of country
teeming with largo towns and multitudes of people,
for whose souls no man seems to care. It affords a
greater prospect of concentrated exertions than do
the regions to the northwest. It is entirely under
British rule. It is easy of access by water from
Calcutta, and would ailbrd a ‘ half-way house’ to the
missionary brethren going on to the northwest. We
want some missionary families in Calcutta, where
our missionaries would land at first j who would find
as much work to do as they could accomplish ; who
would meet with a most cordial reception from all the
Calcutta brethren ; and who could relieve those bre-

LodiaNa to New yoJik;

235

thr^n from commissions and cares which even now
must be troublesome, though they are too kind to
admit that they are so, but which, in future times,
will be too numerous for them to think of attending
to, when we have some fifty or a hundred missionaries
in the upper regions of India. And then we want
many American missionaries throughout Upper
India ; of whom some could be stationed at Furruk*
habad. There is a large unoccupied field in the Doab.
Would it be desirable for two of our brethren to stay
somewhere in it ? If it is not so for them, I trust
you will soon be able to send others to take posses-
sion of that fertile and populous country.

“ If they should go on to Lodiana, they, or future
missionaries, might prepare themselves for going
either to Cashmere or to Afghanistan, by learning
the language of those countries from the natives, of
whom there arc many at Lodiana.

“ During the spring of 1834, through the kind
attention of Captain Wade, a portion of land w’as
allotted to our mission, which is in many re.spects
very eligible, beiiig about a quarter of a mile cast of
the city, and containing a tract of rather low ground,
suitable for a garden ; as well as some high ground,
suitable, and sufficiently large, for two or three
houses. You would have thought the higher point
of it a dreary, barren spot, if you could have seen it
three or four months ago. It was just like the
sandy-looking plains east and south of it. Yet it has
always been cultivated ; and we may hope that it
will hereafter possess a peculiar interest, as the seat

336

LotolANA to NEW VORK.

of extensive moral influence, and as the home of two
or three families of the Lord's beloved people. It is
intended that Lodiana shall become a walled town,
Und measures are in progress which seem to promise
that the native city shall extend eastward quite to
our ground. According to the plan of the city, a
single street separates our little tract from the wall of
the great city that is to be."

The time had now come when I should direct my
way liomewards. After obtaining the best medical
advice, and after much and anxious consideration,
and many conferences with my missionary com-
panions, it was agreed by us all that a return to the
United States was decidedly a<Ivisable, as the only
means of recovering from the combined influence of
the climate and of chronic disease. Deeply as 1
regretted to leave a j)ost of .so much imj)ortance, and
a mission whose brief history had been so fraught
with deeply jiainful, but also with most encouraging
interest, and sorrowful as we all were at the neces-
sity of parting, the path of duty appeared plain, and
we acquiesced in what we believed to be the will of
God. For myself, I consented the more readily to
the measure, as I hoped to be so much benefited by
the voyage, and by spending a year or two in a colder
climate, as to return to the sphere of duty I was now
about to leave — a hope I have since been constrained
to abandon.

Arrangements were soon made for a journey to
Calcutta by dak, and on the 21st of January, 1 bade

hOt)lANA to NEW YORK. 237

Farewfell to many kind English friends at Lodiana, to
the scholars of the High School, and to my mis-
sionary brethren ; vve commended each other to Cod,
and to the word of his grace, and then parted, they
to pursue their missionary labors, and I to make
another long and solitary journey. I reached CaU
cutta on the 11th of February, after four or five
days’ delay on the road.

1 was anxious to proceed on the voyage without
delay, as the hot season was now drawing nigh ; but
1 met with unexpected and trying disaj)pointments
about getting a passage directly to tbc United States,
and was at length obliged to decide on returning by
way of England. This delay, however, proved the
means of my having a glad meeting with the third
company of missionaries from the Society, who
arrived on the 2d of April, in the Charles Wharton,
from IMiiladelphia, after a safe and pleasant voyage.
IMiis party consisted of the Rev. Messrs. J. R,
('ampbell and J. McEwen, and Messrs. J. M. Jamie-
son, W. S. Rogers, and J. Porter, with their wives.
The three last mentioned gentlemen had com])leted
their studi(?s at college, and they have since been
ordained as ministers of the gospel. Wc all regarded
it as a favorable ordering of Providence, that 1 should
have been delayed until they arrived. I was able to
be of use to them in making their arrangements for
proceeding up the country ; and it was highly grati-
fying to see so many chosen men and women thus
far on their way to a scene oi’ labor, where, two
years before, everything appeared so discouraging.

238

LODIANA to WEW YORKi

I left India with a lighter heart, after spending a few
days with these missionary friends.

Of the voyage to England, and thence to New
York, I need not give an extended account. Both
were unusually long and severe, but we were favored
with all necessary comfort. After stopping a week
at the Cape of Good Hope, our ship arrived at Lon*
don about the end of September, and embarking at
Portsmouth early in November, I had the great satis-
faction, on the 28th of December, of stepping on the
shore of my native country, all the more beloved as
I had seen the more of foreign lands.

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE MISSION.

239

CHAPTER XV.

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE MISSION.

Summary slaloment. — Station at Labor. — Synod of North India.

With the last chapter, my book might eiul ; but as
I venture to hope that this mission will be regarded
with interest by the reader, 1 shall add some account
of its present condition. A full narrative of its sub-
sequent history would occupy a volume ; which, if
Providence favors the design, I may hereafter endea-
vor to write, in compliance with the wishes of
friends often expressed. The information presented
in this chapter will answer the end of showing that
the good hand of God has been upon this missionary
enterprise. .

There are now ten stations in Upper India, occu-
pied by about sixty American and Hindu laborers,
under the patronage of the Presbyterian Church.
Of these laborers, twenty -four are ordained ministers
of the Gospel, two of whom are of native birth; the
others are the wives of the missionaries, and twenty
native catechists, teachers, and readers, not includ-
ing teachers who are nOt converts, of whom a con-
siderable number are employed in the schools.
Churches have been organized at most of the sta-

240

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE MISSION.

tions, with which about two hundred natives are
connected as communicants. An extensive system
of schools is in operation, embracing about twelve
hundred children and youths, who are receiving the
benefits of education under a happy Christian influ-
ence.

The Press is doing its great work in the hands of
the missionaries, there being two printing and bind-
ing establishments, at which the Sacred Scriptures
and Christian Books are printed. Nearly ninety
millions of pages have been printed and circulated
since these presses were set up ; embracing works
varying in size from four pages to upwards of six
hundred pages, in the Hindui, Hindustani, Gurniukhi,
Persian, and English languages. This department
of the missionary work is under cflicient manage-
ment, and its influence is becoming increasingly
important.

'^J'he stations are classed under three Missions,
which take their names from prominent cities within
their bounds. Each of these missions^ is distinct
from the others, and they make their reports directly
to the Board of Foreign Missions, whose seat of
operations is in New York.

The Lodiana Mission has stations at Lodiana,
Saharunpur, Sabathu, Ambala, Jalandar, and Labor.
Sjibathu is a town in the Ilimmalaya mountains,
and is noticed above on page 2Ji2. Two of the sta-
tions are in the Panjab, at Jalandar and Lahoi’, places
mentioned in the preceding naiTative. The station
at Labor is one of so much interest as to deserve a

A GENERAL VIEW OP THE MISSION.

241

somewhat extended notice. This I take from the
“ Annual Report of the Board of Foreign Missions
to the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church,
May, 1850;’*

“ One of the most important events in the history
of this mission during the past year, is the occujia-
tion of Labor, the capital of the Panjab, as a
missionary station. By the ai)pointment of their
brethren, the Rev. Messrs Newton and Forman
took up their abode at that city in November.

“ Nearly seventeen years ago, the first mission-
aries of the Presbyterian Church in India were led,
under the manifest guidance of Providence, to select
the norlh-west(?rn provinces of that country as their
general field of labor. Their choice had a special
reference to the PanJab, then an independent king-
dom, and to llie Sikhs, a distinct people in their
religion, though in other respects not difiering greatly
from their Hindu countrymen. The missionaries
formed their first station at Lodiaria, on the British
side of the Sutlej, the south-eastern boundary of that
kingdom. One of their number was permitted to
go over, and to spy out the country, penetrating as
far as Labor, where its famous but despotic ruler,
Ranjit Singh, held liis court, lie brought back a
good re))ort of many tilings, but the time did not
appear to have come i’or attempting to form a per-
manent missionary establishment, nor even for mak-
ing flying missionary tours, among the four millions
of its inhabitants.

“ At Lodiana, every facility was enjoyed by the

242 A GENERAL VIEW OF THE MISSION.

4

missionaries for making all needful preparation to go
up and take possession of the land, whenever the
leader of Israel should call them to cross over the
dividing river. There the Gurrnuklu language, the
dialect of the Sikhs, wna studied, and the religion
with which it is so closely allied. A dictionary, a
grammar, a geography, a number of religious tracts,
and more than all, a revised and to some extent a
new translation of the Holy Scriptures, were prepared ;
and most of them have been printed at the Lodiaiia
press, though some of them are now in the course of
publication. Two or three of the missionaries have
learned the Gurrnukhi, and one of them is probably
the best scholar in that language now living ; while
all the missionaries, from their location, have enjoyed
peculiar advantages for becoming acquainted with
the other dialects spoken in that pai’t of India, and
with the general state of society, religion, &c.,
amongst the peoj)le. It is confidently believed that
no other Missionary Institution is so completely fur-
nished for the great work of evangelizing the Panjab,
and certainly no other has had this object so long
and so constantly in view, as the Missionary Board
of our Church.

“ If the door of entrance into the Panjab had been
open seventeen years ago, the Church was not then
prepared to.take possession of that good land. Now
lier work of preparation has been completed, and in
the wonderful working of Divine Providence the door
is widely open. The death of Ranjit Singh was
celebrated with the immolation of eleven females on
his funeral pile. It was an act characteristic of the

A GENERAL VIEW OF THE MISSION.

243

reign of Satan, but it was one of the signs of his
falling kingdom. Ranjii left no successor capable
of wielding his iron sceptre. The country soon fell
into a state of anarchy, under the leaders of the army
which he had trained ; and they were so elated with
mistaken views of their own power, as to resolve on
the overthrow of the British dominion in India. For
this purpose, unprovoked, they crossed the Sutlej,
into British territory. Defeated, they withdrew, and
were allowed to retain most of their possessions,
only a narrow tract on the south-eastern side of the
Panjab being appropriated by the British to defray
the expenses of the war. In this region, known as
the Jaiandar Doab, a missionary station was formed,
in connexion with the station at Lodiana, three
years ago. A second time, equally without provoca-
tion, these chiefs and their fierce troops arrayed
themselves against their former foe. The conflict
between the Sikh and British armies was terrible,
and the i.ssue for a time doubtful ; but the end was
the prostration of the »Sikh power, and the annexa-
tion of tlie whole Punjab to the Anglo-Indian empire
— a measure hailed with satisfaction by the greater
part of the inhabitants of that long oppressed land.
The former native rule was a lawless military des-
potism ; the present is a government of law, in the
hands of a Christian nation. And as the result of
these great changes in the political condition of the
Panjiib, changes which the Christian must recognise
as permitted by Providence for wise and holy pur-
poses, the whole of that interesting country is now

244

A GENERAL VIEW OP THE MISSION.

open to the missionary, and two of our brethren are
pursuing their work in its chief city.

“ Their position is one of commanding importance,
with reference to the Parijab itself and its energetic
people, and also with reference to other countries on
its borders, where the light of the Gospel does not
yet shine. Our mission, at such a post, ought to be
a strong one. It should have the usual departments
of missionary labor, and these should be amj)ly sus-
tained with men and funds. Above all, it should be
borne, on the prayers of God’s people, before the
throne of grace.

“ The C^jinmittee have considered it expedient to
state the history and claims of this new station at
some length. They would only add the expression of
their gratification at learning that the missionaries
received a cordial welcome from the English resi-
dents at Labor.”

The FurrukhabiMl Mission lias stations at Fnlleh-
gurh, JVJynpuric, and Agra. ^J'he Allahabad Mission
has but one station, at the city of Allahabad.

The classification of the stations as Missions is
made chiefly for the convenience of the missionaries,
in the transaction of their financial and other busi-
ness matters. A classification of a different nature,
is that which groups the missionaries and their con-
verts under the ecclesiastical system of the Church,
with which they account it tlieir happiness to be
connected. Three Presbyteries* have been consti-

* Besides those, the missionaries stationed at Saharunpur, who are
connected ecclesiastically with the Reformed Presbyterian Church,

A GENERAL VrUVV OP THE MISSION.

245

tute,d by the General Assembly of the Presbyterian
Church, which are known by the same names and
embrace the same ministers and churches as tlic
Missions, with the exception stated in the note
below. These Presbyteries form the Synod of
North India.

The sessions of this venerable Court of the Church
must be expected to exert a happy indiience on the
missionary work in Upper India. It is thus referred
to in the Annual Report of the Board for this year :

“In the preceding narrative, references have been
made incidentally to the second meeting of the
♦Synod of North India, which held its sessions at Agra,
in December, 1848

“ The missionary brethren themselves speak of the
Synodical meeting as an occasion of no ordinary
interest, and as subserving important objects. In
the Report of the Allahabad Mission, after mention-
ing that tlie ruling older, Babu John Harry, since
licen.sed to j)rcach, accompanied the missionaries to
the meeting of Synod, ‘es|)ecially bticause we reijuired
hi.s assistance in the peculiar work before the Synod,'
the brethren j)roceed :

“ ‘ The Synod held thirteen Sessions — an opening
one, and twelve serious days' work. W^e were
mostly engaged in a careful and detailed revision of
the translation of the Confession of Faith and
Shorter Catechism in Urdu. The former had been

liavc been organized as a Prcj-bylery. Their rni^^^iiotlary relation is
with tho Board, as well as with tiieir own Church, and it has always
been a pleasant one to themselves and to their iiiiHsionury brethren.

246

A GENERAL VIEW OP THE MISSION.

prepared by the Lodiaiia Mission, and carefully
revised by a member of our Presbytery ; and the
latter was the work of our Presbytery altogether.
A member of the Lodiaua Presbytery had also
assisted in finally revising and preparing these for
presentation to the Synod. We ought also to men-
tion that Mr. Wilson, of Agra, while with us at Alla-
habad, assisted in the translation of the Shorter
Catechism. The Synod carefully examined these
works, freely discussed them, and adopted them at
last, as the authoritative exposition of our faith in
the Urdu langujige. They liave since been printed
at our Press, and are now ready for distribution.

“ ‘ The meinliers of the mission who were present at
this meeting of our Synod, would record their senti-
ments of gratitude that they were permitted to enjoy
this privilege. It was a great privilege in this dry
aiul thirsty land, to see one another; to feel the
influence whicli a greater number always exerts ; to
strengthen the bonds of brotherly aflection, and to
comfort and encourage each other’s hearts. We
could not but feel, also, the influence of the elevating
sentiment that we were engaged in planting in this
land that standard, around which the best of God’s
people in all ages have joyfully rallied, and that
system «»f doctriias which, though .so often a sign
spoken against, is still, instrumentally, the life of the
Church, and presents the oidy form of Christianity
that can ever give masculine character to the
Church of India.’

“This meeting can hardly be viewed with less

«;r\KR.\L V\IK\V OF THF. MISSION.

247

interest, by the churches in this hind, whose messen-
gers ’were there assembled with the elders of
churches planted among the heathen. Such a meet-
ing marks almost an era in the missionary work of
the Church, and deserves a much more extended
notice than can be given to it by the Committee
in this report. It is a point from which to look back
and to Io(jk forward. But a few years have passed
since the missionaries of our Church went to India.
They were guided by the good hand of our God upon
them to the Up[)er Provinces as their field of labor,
I)rovinces containing thirty millions of people,
'riiere they found a field in a great degree unoccu-
pied by other missionary laborers. In the midst of
personal discouragement and bereavements, they
entered on their work. Open <h)()rs were set before
them. Reinforcements from the Church at home
increased their number. The Gi»spcl was preached.
The Holy Scriptures were translated, printed, and
spread abroad. Many of the heathen youth were
brought into (diristian schools. The blessing of
God was not withholden from their labors. Con-
verts were baptized, f Churches were formed. Pres-
byteries were organized. Candiiiates for the Gospel
ministry were licen.sed and ordained. The Synod
was constituted. Our ecclesiastical system is found
to work ha})j»ily on missionary ground. Questions,
abroad, as well as at home, which give trouble to
some missionary bodies, are (juietly and satisfac-
torily settled under our well known rules. God is
pleased to put honor on .sound doctrine, and this our

12

248

A OENRIIAL VIEW OF THE MIrfrflON.

brethren preach. The Church will view with plea-
sure the care bcstowc^d by her servants on the Hin-
dustani Translation of her venerable Confession of
Faith. . It is a great matter to liave such a work
performed under the sanction of one of her own
Synods. In future ages, tbis Confession may be
referred to with gratitude by greater numbers of
Christians than now praise God for that of West-
minster.

“ On the whole there has been progress — gradual,
steady, and substantial. This has not been on a
large .scale, in the view of sense ; but it is really
great in the eye of faith, which can see ‘ the king-
dom of Ciod,* even when it ‘cometh not wifh obser-
vation.* The churches are small ; the candidates,
few : the native catechists, licentiate preachers, and
ordained ministers, but a little band ; but it is of the
Lonl’s doint; that there are any ! It is a more sig-
nal display of Divine |>ower, speaking after the man-
ner of men, to rescue a few souls at first from the
power of Satan, and to plant a few churches at first
in a land of spiritual darkness and death, than it will
be to increase those few disciples and churches to
an exceedingly great and glorious host. This brief
review of the past, therefore, should encourage the
Church to expect great things in the time to come.
The foundations of a great work are laid, and some
living stones are now in the walls of the spiritual
temple. In the Lord’s time, the headstone thereof
shall be brought forth, with shoutings, crying grace,
grace unto it.”

oenebaL considerations.

249

CHAPTER XVL

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

The north-western provinces not occupied with Missionary institu-
tions — Urgent wants of adult Heathens — Encouragement of Chris-
tian effort — India open for Missionary labors — An interior niovoincnt
now in progress — The Hindus in a transition state ; shall they
become Christiana or Infidels ? — Religious movements en masse —
The kind of men required as Missionaries.

It certainly deserves our devout thanksgiving, that
so large a mission establishment is now planted and
exerting an effective influence where, a few years
ago, there was but a solitary pioneer, or rather where
but a year or two before, the wants and even the
names of those provinces, and their millions of peo-
ple, were little known to our churches. A beginning
has been made, a number of faithful laborers are
engaged in the Lord’s work, schools have been
formed, the Sacred Scriptures printed and circulated
widely, churches and Presbyteries constituted, and
the work of converting grace displayed, and still in
progress; this is surely the Lord’s work, and it is
marvellous in our eyes. We cannot but regard the
past history of those missions as presenting a strong
inducement to enlarged efforts, and as holding out
good encouragement of final success.

250

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

That success should be devoutly prayed ‘for in
these endeavors, no one can doubt, who considers
how lamentable is the condition of men not enjoying
the light of Revelation, and how far above all price
are the benefits conferred on those who sincerely
embrace the gospel of Jesus Christ. Every motive
that induces Christians to set a high estimate on
their religion, should persuade them to use all pro-
per means to extend its blessings to those who are
destitute of them. Nor is this duty left to their
choice. Its performance is made binding by the
command of Christ. The generous promptings,
however, of their benign faith, not less than the
beautiful example of their blessed Lord, should con-
strain them to offer a free and ready service on
behalf of those who are represented in Sacred Scrip-
ture, with touching simplicity, as “ sitting in dark-
ness and the shadow of death.''

The entire north-western part of India, above a
line drawn between Benares and Allahabad, may be
regarded as specially open to our missionaries.
There are many important places below that line
where they might be well employed, indeed where
the services of missionaries are most urgently
required ; and they would be made welcome by the
missionaries of other branches of the Church of
Christ, now employed in the lower provinces, their
numbers and resources being altogether inadequate
to the work in which they are engaged. But in
the north and north-western parts of India, there are
no other missionaries from the American Church, and

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONB.

251

but^ few from the English Societies. The entire
number of European missionaries is probably under
a dozen, nor is there a prospect of this number being
much increased. There is ample room, therefore,
for the employment of many more missionaries from
this country. Those upper parts of India, from
Allahabad to the Indus, and from the mountains so
far westward as to include the Rajrput tribes, com-
prise the provinces of Allahabad, Agra, and Delhi,
part of Malwa, and the whole of llajputana, the
kingdom of Oudc, the Protected Hill and Sikh States,
and the entire kingdom of the Panjab, including
Cashmere, containing in all a population of probably
thirty millions. And besides these, the provinces of
Scinde, on the lower waters of the Indus, the coun-
tries of Beloochistan and Affghanistan, west of the
Indus, and Thibet on the north-east, can all be
reached from this part of India, more readily than
from any other quarter. In all these countries there
is no mission establishment whatever.

One of the greatest objects of Christian missions
is certainly that of preparing the natives for becom-
ing themselves preachers of righteousness to their
countrymen; yet we cannot doubt the extreme import-
ance of all proper kinds of labor, that look to the con-
version of adult heathens. These must be made by
foreign missionaries, if our benevolence shall reach
the generation now on the stage of life. In a few
years more, they will go down to the land of silence,
before the work can be completed of training up
native youths, and sending them forth on this high

252

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

errand of mercy to their fathers and older country-
men. The Christians now living must put them-
selves in communication with the heathens now
living, aod that chiefly by their direct efforts, if the
latter shall be made to know the true God and
eternal life, which is through his son Jesus Christ our
Lord. And beyond all question, the followers of
Christ are responsible, and will be held to a strict
account in the great day, for the fulfilment of this
duty, according to the measure of their means and
opportunities.

If to any it should appear a hopeless work to
preach Christ and him crucified to adult heathens,
confirmed in evil habits, and surrounded with tem-
poral interests altogether adverse to their believing
on the Son of God, let it be remembered that there
is the same encouragement now as in the first ages
of ' the Church. A minister of the Gospel has the
same reasons to expect the Divine blessing on his
ministrations among the Hindus, that gave encou-
ragement to the apostle Paul to preach in the city of
Ephesus, or to the missionaries who first preached the
gospel to the barbarous tribes of idolaters in Great
Britain and other parts of Europe — our own fore-
fathers. In both cases it is by the foolishness of
preaching, that God is pleased to save them that
believe. In both cases, it is the power of God that
must overcome the otherwise insuperable difficulties,
that would hinder and utterly prevent the conversion
of any pagan, either in ancient or modern times.
And that power shall not be withheld, when the fol-

GENERAL GON8IOERATIONS.

253

lowers 'of Christ sincerely seek its aid, and employ
the appointed means through which that aid is given.
On this principle rests the whole superstructure of
Christian Missions.

In India, the way is made ready for the employ-
ment of these appointed means. That country, and
its multitudes of inhabitants, are now under the con-
trol of a Protestant government ; and Christian
ministers, without receiving any special favor, which
indeed they need not desire, are protected as citizens,
and may spend their entire strength in the fulfilment
of their holy vocation, no man hindering them, nor
making them afraid. After learning the language,
they may preach the gospel to the natives, not
always in congregations statedly assembling in one
place of worship, but as opportunity offers, — in the
midst of large crowds, or to a few villagers, gathered
around the shady peepul tree, or to the solitary
inquirer who comes like Nicodemus, at night, to
their houses, to ask, how can these things be ? or in
the midst of a school-room, day after day, to a num-
ber of hopeful youth. They may translate the Sacred
Scriptures, and place them in the hands of those
who are able to read. They may teach those con-
verts, wdio possess suitable gifts, the way of God more
perfectly, and then send them forth in their Lords'
name to teach others. Thus is there an open door set
before the Church, by the good providence of God.

Besides this outward door open, there is an inte-
rior movement of most deep interest now in progress
among the Hindus, which must not be overlooked.

254

tiGNEKAL CONSIDERATIONS.

Various influences are at work undermining, the
existing fabric of superstition. The administration
of the government by foreigners, who, while they
protect all in their common rights, bestow special
favor on no exclusive cla.ss, and grant no immunity
in crime, not even to a brahman, though shielded by
all tlie special enactments of the Shastras, has a
silent influence on the minds of the people against
their religion ; this influence may be almost unseen,
but it is as steady and as mighty as the flowing of
the tide on the ocean. The advance of knowledge,
on common subjects, is not less directly hostile to
the Hindu religion. The peculiar opinion, accord-
ing to which their books on most branches of know-
ledge are accounted sacred, has been already pointed
out. And it leads to most important results. These
books, at least many of them, are filled with the
grossest error, not merely on religious subjects, but
on common topics — such as the shape of the earth, the
position of its mountains and rivers, the cause of eclip-
ses, the influence of the planets on human aflairs, the
manner of curing diseases, &c. Their belief in the
most absurd notions on these subjects, is based on
the same authority which has peopled their heavens
with millions of gods and goddesses, and ordained
their priests and manifold ceremonial observances.
Let them sec that in the former things they have
been altogether rni.staken, and it will not be long
before they discover tlie groundless claims of the lat-
ter. Both stand on the same platform, and must
stand or fall together. The former are now falling.

GENERAL CONSlDERATlONd. 255

European science and correct knowledge are sup-
planting the fables of the East. Many of the more
influential classes, and of those who will become
influential, are now abandoning the silly legends of
the Hindu Shastras, and their number is constantly
increasing. Commonly, if not always, these Hindus
abandon at the same time the religious faith of
their country. For a while they may comply with
its outward forms, yet will they stop in the midst of
their prayers, to tell you that they are merely con-
forming to what is customary. Indeed, to a great
extent, the Hindu religion may now be characterized
as a religion of usage, and not of reverence or feel-
ing. It was never a religion of love, and therefore
its hold on its votaries can be the more easily broken.
Besides all this, multitudes of youth are now forming
such habits of accurate mental study, of ascertain-
ing truth by induction and severe reason, as would
lead them to reject the visionary religious revela-
tions of the Hindu sacred books, even were their
instructions on profane topics less erroneous. In
short the Hindus may be regarded as now in a
transition state. They are leaving the false and
dangerous moorings of Hinduism, and setting out on
the tide of new opinions, impelled by a self-trusting
and reckless spirit, without chart or pilot — ^where
shall their voyage end ? Certain it is, that they will
not continue pagans many generations longer ; shall
they become sincere worshippers of the true God, or
madly follow the vain imaginations of the natural
mind into the heartless regions of scepticism ? This

12 *

256

QKNEAAL CON8IDEBATIONS.

question can be answered satisfactorily, if the Church
employ Christian agencies in a right spirit, and to a
suitable extent. All these general influences, now
gradually working such mighty changes, are but doing
a part of her work. They are disabusing the minds of
the people of error ; let the servants of the Church
stand by and fill their minds with truth. Let them
build up the walls of Zion among the Hindus, while
the fortresses of the great adversary are falling in
ruins.

There is another view of India as a missionary
field, which cannot be surveyed without inspiring the
mind with hope, not unmingled with anxiety. So
intimately bound together are the Hindus in their
respective castes, and so terrible are the consequen-
ces of losing one’s place in the sect of which he is a
member, that few have forsaken Hinduism. This is
not strange ; the wonder is rather that so many have
become Christians. These bonds of caste will keep
men from embracing a diflferent religion as indivi-
duals, separately, but they will also lead to large
masses of people making that change together.
The motives which are sufficient to influence the
mind of one man will, before they have led him to
any final decision, have become the motives of hun-
dreds more of the same sect ; they will then forsake
their old religion together, and they will strengthen
each other in their new faith. Years ago, reflecting
observers predicted this result. And a striking exam-
ple of the correctness of their opinions has been wit-
nessed in Krishnagur, a district of Bengal, about

OfiNERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

257

sixty or seventy miles north of Calcutta. Large
numbers of the Kurta Bhojas, one of the smaller
sects, have been received into the Christian Church
at that station, under the labors of the English Epis-
copal Missionaries. This movement extended to
thousands of that sect, while surrounding sects were
hardly at all impressed. Thus it probably will be
throughout India. Such is our hope. Our fear is,
that when these movements shall take place, the
Church may not be prepared, with her servants and
their native co-laborers, to point the minds of the
inquiring multitudes to the ‘‘ Lamb of God that tak-
eth away the sin of the world.’' What could the
four missionary brethren and their two-native assist-
ants accomplish at Futtehgurh, if the people of Fur-
rukhabad, a city a few miles distant, of more than
one hundred thousand souls, should now arise en
masse, renounce their idols, and seek a new religion ?
It may be said that these changes cannot be expected
until the means shall have been employed to produce
them, and then those means shall serve to give them
a safe direction. But may there not be light enough
to show them their danger, and yet not enough to
point out the w'ay of escape ? Besides, this view
only postpones the time of these great and general
religious movements, the arrival of which every
Christian should be anxious rather to hasten than
retard. And moreover there are, as has been shown,
causes now at work to produce these changes,
though a large part of these causes are purely secu-
lar ; and unless Christian efforts are combined with

258

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS.

them, their result will prove anything else than favor-
able to the religious benefit of the people.

These considerations clearly show, that India is
a most important sphere of missionary labor. “ The
harvest truly is plenteous, but the laborers are few."

I shall only add, that the missionary field in Upper
India was brought to the attention of that part of the
Church by which these missions are supported, at the
time that she was beginning to move forward as a
distinct tribe in Israel in the missionary work. It is
not presumptuous for us to believe that in this there
was far more than a merely casual coincidence. Let
those, who have ‘'understanding of the times to
know what Israel ought to do," consider to what im-
portant results this connexion should lead.

The question has been asked, what kind of men
are needed for missionary service in India ? It is
obvious that in so large a field of labor, there must
be room for the employment of men of very different
and unequal gifts. Among the apostles, the earliest
missionaries, usefulness was not limited to the labors
of the highly-gifted Paul; Thomas, a man of far
less talent and learning, has left traces of iiis success
in his Lord’s work, in places further distant from
Jerusalem than Paul ever travelled.

While there is ample scope for the full employ-
ment of talents of the highest order, men of moderate
abilities should not be discouraged from entering on
the missionary field in India. It is highly desirable,
however, that our missionaries should be able,

GENERAL OONSlDERATlONSi

259

wise, learned, and practical men; the stronger
in these respects they are, the better, if only they
have such a religious character as shall guard them
from self-confidence and other evils, to which gifted
men of little grace are exposed. I would insist far
more on matured and deep religious attainments than
on talents and learning in a missionary. He should
have such convictions of his own unworthiness, such
views of his Lord’s glory, and such desires for the
salvation of the heathen, as would make him at once
humble, zealous, patient, and laborious in his sacred
calling. A self-willed man ought not to be a mis-
sionary, especially if he is to be associated with
others ; nor should one who desires to have the pre-
eminence. Even in the Church at home, a man who
cannot bear contradiction without impatience, but
must have his own way or none ; who is anxious to
be known as the principal agent, and to have his own
proceedings conspicuously set forth ; who can allow
himself to speak harshly and contemptuously of his
brethren ; who has a suspicious temper, readily takes
offence, and is slow to forgive ; especially if he have
more than common ability, or is supported by any-
thing peculiar in his family connexions, or in his
position in the community ; — such a man is sure to
be both the cause and the occasion of trouble and
dissension, though he is here surrounded by a thou-
sand counteracting and regulating influences. To
make a minister of the gosj^el of such a man, is a
very doubtful service to the Church of Christ ; to
make a missionary of such a man would be a severe

GENERAL CONSIDER ATIONS.

trial to those who might be compelled to associate
with him, and would probably contribute little to the
establishment of the gospel among the heathen. I
am thankful that I have never met with such a mis-
sionary ; and I have drawn the sketch only to pre-
sent at one view various evil traits, which should be
guarded against with all care. The seeds of these
evils are found in the corrupt nature of man. Reli-
gion alone can effectually restrain and correct them.
Where missionaries are so few in number, so closely
connected together, and so dependent on each other,
there should be special care to exclude everything
that would hinder their happiness or their usefulness.
No one should expbct special deference to be paid to
his views ; every one should be willing to submit
himself to his brethren in the Lord ; and all should
aim to excel in humility of mind, in the study of
whatsoever things are lovely, and in a sacred devo-
tion to the great object of their mission. Let a suf-
ficient number of such missionaries be employed, and
let the Church support them with her gifts and her
prayers, and the time shall not be long distant when
the praise of the most high God shall ascend from the
millions of India.

APPENDIX

t. l*Hfi BRITISH RULE AND THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE
IN INDIA.

11. ON THE RELATION OF MISSIONARIES TO EUROPEANS

IN INDIA.

TUB BRITISH RCIBK, AND THE RNCIJSI! LANHUADE IN
INDIA.

Rejerml to on pages Bl, C3» and elsewhere.

It is one of the wonderful things of Providence,
that the millions of India should he hroufrht under
the same government with the inhahifanls of a small
island on the ojiposite side of the globe. And it
appears the more wonderful, when we recollect that
two thousand years ago these islanders were a bar-
barous j)eopl(5, while the Hindus were as civilized as
they are at the present day. The history of these
nations teaches that heathenism exerts no beneficial
iniluence on the condition of its subjects, and that
the Gos|)el is the best means of civilizing rude tribes
and elevating them to the highest grade of national
welfare. I’hc design of God in permitting tlie sub-
jection of the Hindus to the British government,
we cannot doubt, is both wise and good.

The Anglo-Indian government is now but a part
of the government of Great Britain. The charter
of the East India Company has been so modified,
that all the proceedings of its officers and servants are
under the supervision and control of the British par-
liament. The policy of Great Britain, whether
liberal or c.xclusive, i.s the policy of the government

264

APPENDIX.

authorities in India. Happily for themselves and fpr
a large portion of the human family, liberal views
are generally prevalent among the British people.

The conduct of many of the earlier European
residents in India tovvanls the natives was often
unworthy of Christian and upright men. The mean's
by which the power of the East India Company was
sometimes established and extended, can by no means
admit of justification, nor even of excuse. Of these
things, no one can express approbation, any more
than of too many things in the history of our con-
nexion with the Indian tribes of this land. But for
many years the Anglo-Indian government has been
so conducted as to prove a great benefit to the
Hindus.

We sec |)roofs of this on every side. The su-
premacy of the British has procured for the
Hindus rulers who are friendly to the mass of the
people, instead of oppressors who ruled over them
with a rod of iron. It has obtained for them an
upright administration of their aflairs ; justice im-
partially rendered to all, as far as the falsehood and
deception of the native character will permit; trade
and commerce unfettered by violent exactions ; pro-
perty acquired openly and possessed without fear ;
foreign capital and intelligence employed to develope
the resources of the country, and to introduce the
superior improvements of other lands; the resi-
dence amongst them of many well informed and
benevolent men, whose example and influence
are favorable to everything that is good ; and above

APPENDIX.

265

all, the means of grace appointed by God for their
salvation. There are evils connected with a foreign
government over the Hindus ; but the blessings are
great and substantial.

I have adverted, generally, in the preceding pages,
to what has appeared to me the most serious of these
evils — the constant drain of income from India to be
spent in England; connected with which is the
almost universal return of the European rulers to
their own country, after certain periods of service, on
large retiring allowances. This involves some of
the consequences which are attributed to the prac-
tice of lan(|V>rds living absent from their estates in
Ireland and the West Indies. There may be other
evils, and more easy to be removed.

In judging of these things, we must keep in view
the corrupt state of morals in a heathen land, and
the almost universal ignorance of the inhabitants.
These make it impossible to conduct the government
agreeably to the views of popular power with which
we are happily conversant ; and they form serious
obstacles in the way of the administration of govern-
ment of any kind. It is worthy of note, moreover,
that the British rule in India has been steadily
growing more favorable to the native inhabitants.
The prohibition of the horrid practice of burning
widows on the funeral pile of their husbands ; the
suppression of Thuggism ; the withdrawal of patron-
age from the heathen temples, are measures of the
last few years ; and they are measures which will
undou^edly tend in many ways to promote the

266

APPENDIX.

benefit, temporal and eternal, of the Hindu peqple.
The abolition of vexatious and ruinous imposts on
all kinds of internal . traffic, a system derived from
the former rulers of the country, and long retained
by the British, was a measure of Lord William Ben-
tinck’s administration, which marked an era in the
history of the Hindus. The increasing disposition
to foster education, both in the English and the ver-
nacular languages ; the employment of greater num-
bers of the natives in stations of trust ; the patron-
age of public works, especially of railroads, are
instances of recent Anglo-Indian policy. Other
things will follow. The abolition of the salt-mono-
poly would be a priceless boon to the poor Hindus. A
much lower assessment on all lands capable of grow-
ing the cotton plant, and the application of foreign
capital to the improved cultivation of the indigenous
plant — not the fruitless effort to naturalize our
American plant — would lead to an immense supply
of cotton, both for Asiatic and European markets.
These and other measures are dictated by sound
policy, which should seek to attach the natives of
India to her foreign rulers by the ties of interest as
well as of gratitude.

The introduction of the English language among
the Hindus, to some extent, follows in the train of
British rule in India. This is a matter of no little
moment, as it is closely connected with the subject
of the education of the Hindus, — ^a matter often
referred to in the preceding work. For maiv^ years

APPENDIX.

267

varjous causes have been leading many of the natives,
especially those of the better classes, to seek an
acquaintance with our language. One of these causes
is no longer in operation, at least not to the extent
that it was some fifteen years ago ; yet its efifects
remain, and its direct influence is still partially felt,
while it is itself such an instance as could hardly be
found in any country but India; I shall therefore
describe it briefly.

During Lord William Bentinck’s administration,
the question was discussed of making the English
the language of business in the courts of justice, and
eventually in the other departments of the govern-
ment. Formerly the Persian was chiefly used in all
government transactions, a language introduced by
the Mohammedan rulers for their own convenience.
It was a strange tongue to the great mass of the
inhabitants. The British continued the use of the
Persian, though it was now a strange tongue alike
to the rulers and the ruled! The Mohammedan
conquerors cared nothing for the welfare of the Hin-
dus, and compelled them to submit to the great evil
of having their suits issued in a strange language,
and to the manifold vexations, impositions and exac-
tions, resulting from that procedure in a state of
society so deeply corrupt. The English authorities,
on the other hand, through an excessive dread of
interfering with existing usages, subjected themselves
to the necessity of learning a new language. Hence
arose a necessity for interpreters, not for the natives
only >8 under the Mohammedans, but in many cases

268

APPENDIX.

for the English ruler also, whose knowledge of Persian
would often be defective. A wide field of dishonest
advantage was set before the unprincipled native
law-agent, who would not hesitate to receive bribes
from both plaintiff and defendant, in order to make
a favorable representation for each party to the
judge. The most upright magistrate might easily
do injustice, because not well qualified to decide on
proceedings in a foreign language, nor to detect the
misrepresentations of the wily agents around him.

This state of things was felt to be a grievous burden.
Its evils and inconveniences were so great, and so
painfully felt by all, that some change was loudly
called for. The subject was discussed in the news-
papers, and made a matter of government inquiry
and consideration. Many were anxious that the
English should be substituted for the Persian. This
would have placed the English ruler where the
Mohammedan stood, and would have been much
better than to continue the use of a language foreign
both to the judge and the people. It was advocated,
moreover, with zeal and ability on the ground of
its happy influence in making our language the
language of learning, and of intercourse among the
higher circles of society. This change, however,
was not finally made; though the Persian was
abolished. The native dialects are becoming more
commonly the language of business between the
English and the Hindus. Other things being equal,
a preference is given, in the appointment of natives
to official stations, to those who understarrH^ the

APPENDIX.

260

English language ; and this is understood to be the
policy which the government will hereafter pursue.

The agitation of this subject extended over a
period of two or three }^ars, and created among the
natives a general impression that the English would
take the place of the Persian language. They were
too ignorant and too selfish to understand how their
rulers could come to any other decision. This
impression, doubtless, turned the attention of thou-
sands to the study of the language ; and thousands
more will pursue that study still, for its favorable
bearing on their hope of gaining employment under
the government. Besides these, many will study it
to obtain the stations of servants in English families,
clerks, copyists, factors, agents, in the transaction of
business, &c. Among the more respectable classes
it is quite an object with many, to qualify themselves
for holding free intercourse with the officers of
government and other European residents. Some
may have been influenced, by perceiving that a
knowledge of our language would give them import-
ance in the eyes of their countrymen, connecting
them, as it would be considered, with those who
rule over the country ; and a few may have been
induced to acquire it from their love of knowledge
for its own sake.

The result of all this, as will readily be perceived,
is closely connected with the religious question of
India. The native languages contain little valuable
knowledge, and vast stores of error, and of the
legenj^ of idolatry. The English language contains.

270

APPENDIX.

with much that is evil, all that is good. Studying it,
thousands of influential native youth will abandon
the religion of their fathers, perceiving that it is alto-
gether irreconcilable with the simplest rudiments of
correct knowledge. But will they become Christians ?
Not necessarily. A large part of the influence that
reaches the Hindu mind through the medium of our
language has never received a Christian baptism.
Many of these English ideas are engaged in demo-
lishing the Hindu temple, but they do not build up
the Christian church. Left to the guidance of their
own depraved hearts, without any light from heaven
to direct their minds, these Hindu English readers
will become infldels, believers in no religion at all.
Many of the natives, especially in the cities where
Europeans reside, and natives whose English educa-
tion gives them great influence with their country-
men, are now of this character. In France, the
dreadful effects of infidelity as to the Christian reli-
gion were displayed at the close of the last century.
There is too much reason to fear the eventual
prevalence of a pagan infidelity in India. In any
country infidelity is a miserable substitute for faith.
Under its influence the human mind is empty of all
elevating and inspiring views, the human heart is
unrestrained, and the future is a dreary and dark
waste. But these are matters of a negative kind.
Would the effects of infidelity on human happiness
be less disastrous in the east than in the west?
Would. property and life be safer in Calcutta at the

APPENDIX.

•271

c1<^se of the nineteenth century, than they were in
Paris at the end of tlje eighteenth? These are very
grave questioihs, and but one answer can be given
to them.

We cannot, therefore, estimate too highly the
importance of thos^e institutions, in which, together
with our general knowledge, our holy religion is
daily taught. Other kinds of missionary efforts Jiro
important. The preaching of the Gospel everywhere
stands first in the order of Divinely appointed means
of grace ; but we mu.st recollect that tliese school.s
are in a country where 12,000 misv*<ionarie.s, sent fr(»m
Christian lands, were it possible to send so many,
would supply only to every 10,000 souls; and it
is therefore essentially necessarydo educate and j)re-
pare native preachers, in order to have the Gospel
preached to eveiy creature. These weighty con-
siderations we must keep in view, when we nttemj)t
to estimate the importance of the mission schools of
India.

It would be interesting to view some other aspects
of the inlrodnction of our language into India. Will
the native young men, for example, wdio, by their
English education, are so much .superior to their
country-women, be contented to connect themselves
in marriage with persons little suited to be their
companifuis in ignorance, 1ml with whom they can
have no communion of mind with mind, after they
have become themselves comparatively well-inform-
ed ? What, in other wonls, will he the influence of
this superior knowledge, even though but partially

18

272

APPENDIX.

difTuscd, on the condition of the female sex? W|iat
will be its influence, again, on the occupations of
the Hindus? And what its influence on the feelings
with which they will regard their subjection to a
foreign nation ?

It is the Christian’s happiness to know, that all the
affairs of nations and men are under the wise and
merciful providence of the God and Father of our
Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, who will overrule
and determine them, so as to fulfil liis own purposes,
and to promote his own glory.

APPENDIX.

273

ON TUB RELATION OF MISSIONARIES TO EUROPEANS
IN INDIA.

Referred to on poge 41 ).

The relation of missionaries to other foreigners in
India may appear to some a matter of little moment ;
hut only to tho.se who have not duly considered the
duties, whicli grow out of circumstances materially
different from those in which they have themselves
been placed. Certain it is, that the Apostles adapted
their conduct to the different classes of people
ajnongst whom they fulfilled their ministry.

Viewed with reference to our future usefulness,
wc regarded it as kindly ordered, that we should
meet with no embarrassment as missionaries from our
social position : hut on the contrary, that all our way
should be marked with the favor of those who were
able greatly to hinder or to advance our object. This,
though not more than we were entitled to expect
from our standing at home, as clergymen, was per-
haps unusual in North India; and at any rate it was
one of those things in which wc thankfully acknow-
ledged the favor of God, in prospering our way.
In regard to this subject, it has seemed to me desir-
able, th^t our nnssionaries among the Hindus should

‘274

APPENDIX.

be known, in some sense, as a separate ca^c.
They go to India as Missionaries, — neither as
Churchmen nor as Dissenters, as those terms are
technically used among English people ; though
certainly Churchmen as members of the Church of
Christ. Viewed socially, they should by no means
be regarded as out of society, having the same social
position with other clergymen in their own country ;
and yet they should not be expected to comply with
all the usages observed among Europeans in India. If
they may be regarded as a separate people, respect-
able for talents, well educated, intelligent, and devoted
to the single object of converting the Hindus to
Christ, then will they enjoy, I doubt not, the confi-
dence and the co-operation of other foreigners in
that country, to every needful extent.

It is not only in social intercourse, however, that
the position of missionaries should be considered.
They have duties to perform, as for the time subjects
of the government whose protection they enjoy.
On this point I shall quote a part of the Instructions
of the Executive Committee, addressed to the llev.
Messrs. Freeman, Scott, and Warren, in 1838, as
exhibiting the principles recogni.sed by the Board.

“ You will bear in mind, dear brethren, that you
go to build up a kingdom that is not of this world.
With the civil government of India, and all the secu-
lar matters that may agitate any portion of its com-
munity, as missionaries of the cross, you have nothing
to do. As you will receive the protection of the
laws, yield to the governo^ent a cheerful and ^ace-

APPRNIHX.

275

ftri^ubmissioS^ and where it is required a cordial
support. It may be that in the laws and regulations
of the British authorities in India, and in their
administration, some things may appear strange to
you, and some things objectionable and wrong. But
there are several considerations w'orthy of regard
here. First, you may not for a long time be com-
petent judges of these matters. The condition of
the United States and that of India are at this time
very different. The degree of liberty, and the laws
and usages to which you have been accustomed,
may be very unsuitable for India; and yet, having
enjoyed, as your birthright, all the privileges of your
own country, it \v||uld not be strange if you deemed
them the best for every other people. Again, the
legislation and the administration of the government
of India are in the hands of able and enlightened
men. Some of the first of British statesmen have
been engaged in this service ; among them are
many who fear God, and who have devoted much of
their time, and thought, and property, to advance
the best interests of the people and you may safely
leave to them what so properly belongs to them,
without anxiety as to the result. — Finally, let us
suppose, what is no doubt the case, that some of the
laws and usages are wrong, and ought to be corrected.
What other country is free from the same charge ?
Certainly not our own, notwithstanding the blessings
and privileges we enjoy. Evils often do exist in
governments, requiring both time and the exercise
of gre.^ wisdom for their correction, without pro-

APPENDIX.

dttcing greater evils. Leave all these matters, th^-
fore, not belonging to you ; it is not to interfere
with them that you are sent to India, but to preach
the gospel to the heathen there, and to persuade
them to be reconciled to God. It is the earnest
desire of the Board that the Presbyterian Mission-
aries in India may establish such a character as will
insure to them not only protection, but also the con-
fidence and esteem of those intrusted with the
government. Let all your teaching, all your inter-
course with the natives, all your schools, and every
thing you print, be open at all times to the inspec-
lion of the civil officers; let it be seen that yw
attend only to your appropriate work, and soon you
will convince all that you are indeed the missionaries
3f the Prince of Peace. ’These things are not
written in distrust of you, or of the brethren in India,
lor with any reference to the past history of that
nission, — which, we are happy to acknowledge, has
’eceived the full protection, and shared largely in
he kind and generous feelings of the Europeans
vho administer the authority of that country; but
ve have noticed tliem as being of themselves irnpor-
ant, and that there may be no mistake as to the
•rinciples by which we are governed.*’

THE END.

APPENDIX.

duoing greater evils. Leave all these matters, th^
fore, asr not belonging to you ; it is not to interfere
with them that you are sent to India, but to preach
the gospel to the heathen there, and to persuade
them to be reconciled to God. It is the earnest
desire of the Board that the Presbyterian Mission-
aries in India may establish such a character as will
insure to them not only protection, but also the con-
fidence and esteem of those intrusted with the
government. Let all your teaching, all your inter-
course with the natives, all your schools, and every
thing you print, be open at all times to the inspec-
tion of the civil officers; let it be seen that ym
attend only to your appropriate work, and soon you
will convince ail that you are indeed the missionaries
of the Prince of Peace. ‘.These tfungs are not
written in distrust of you, or of the brethren in India,
nor with any reference to the past history of that
mission, — which, we are happy to acknowledge, has
received the full protecti<m, and shared largely in
the kind and generous feelings of the Europeans
who administer the authority of that country; but
we have noticed them as being of themselves impor-
tant, and that there may be no mistake as to the
principles by which we are governed.**

TIIK END.